cac43
mo
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To Rockhillmanor- a good idea, can you send another picture showing from the outside up the steps into the rv. my bigest problem is once we get to the first of 2 steps inside the rv. thanks chuck
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traveylin
Rockport
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I had a very similar need for acess to a class c and wife that had polio about the same issue. I built a durable three step riser that would fit into one of the lockers. It was used to acess both the cabin door and the passenger side door which was important since the clearance between the motor hood and the passenger seat was insufficient to easily navigate. When upgrading Rv we went with a class A to avoid the motor hood-seat clearance issue
pops
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cac43
mo
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hi, could you tell me how you built the riser? I can get my wife up the pull-out step onto the 1st step inside the rv' but haven't figured out to get her up the next 12" to the floor level of the rv. chuck
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Halleycomet
New York
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Wonder if the ADD A STEP idea could be adapted to "bridge" the huge gap between the steps? See the ADD A STEP web site and maybe some clever person could use this idea for a springboard to weld something up or maybe the step as it is could be used on your set up. Worth a few minutes to go look. I think it is a great idea for the bottom step which can be soooo uneven due to ground dips etc. Don't know why you would be limited to using this as a bottom step as long as it fit and locked on.
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traveylin
Rockport
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Use 2x12 for the treads and cut out 1 inch plywood for the sides with a liter weight stabilizer trim board for the front and back. Its heavy which helps stability. go to two steps if possible, make sure it fits in your locker. An aid to the last 12 inches inside the cabin, install grab bars and you may have to be creative finding a place to attach. The last 12 inches can be reduced by laying one or two, 2x12 on the first step inside the door. This effectively add another small step from the top of the outside step
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wannavolunteerFT
South Georgia
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I would love to see pictures of how you adapt the inside steps. when traveling with my parents in their Class C, I discovered that inside step was HUGE. It was hard for me with my bad knees, and they aren't nearly 90 like my dad's or artificial like my mom's. The outside steps can be adapted or added to in several ways. My folks have a plastic crate thing that was intended to hold 2 liter soda's in stores and trucks. It is light weight and is often all that is needed to bridge between the bottom step and the ground, at home they use a half block like pictured above. They just have to go very slowly and pile stuff inside or outside the door so that their hands are free for grab rails, but really need a better solution.
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cac43
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Thanks travelin'
"The last 12 inches can be reduced by laying one or two, 2x12 on the first step inside the door. This effectively add another small step from the top of the outside step"
So simple, my mind didn't think about that way. Thanks Chuck
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