Hey guys, have any of you ever painted/coated the rubber roof on your RV? Mine is geting pretty beat up from the sun. I have looked at the coating/paint stuff they sell at RV places, sound like normal paint, cleans up with water, etc. I really don't want to do the work and have it fail and crack and look worse in a year.. Any advice will be appreciated. charlie in texas
1999 Southwind ford V10
Gibson hedders and exhaust
Tacoma, 4x4 toad
Charlie, Google "Liquid Rubber Roof", and look at their two part EDPM rubber coating. I used it, makes a new rubber roof for all intents and purposes. My 35 footer took 6 gallons at a total price of $360 bucks. Don't use the cheap latex or acrylic coatingslike Kool Seal. Use the best.
cdking1,
We did it about two years ago. Most rubber roofs on these coaches are EDPM or another chemical make up for which I can't remember. But, Dicor, a company that makes the coating you need, is one of the best if not the actual BEST for your rig. The process is a bit tedious but, well worth it in the end. You'll need enough product to do at least 2 full coats and, the "primer-surfacer" that preps the roof prior to application of the Dicor product. When we did it, my son and I, it took us about 8 hours, on a real warm day.
That's the correct weather you need for it to make sure it will take and not come off later. The roof MUST be completely dry of the primer-surfacer before application of the first coating of the coating. But, you'll be way happy with yourself if you do it this way. Hope this helps some.
Scott
P.S, Here is ours right after the job. Way better than when we started.
Scott and Karla SDFD RETIRED
2004 Itasca Horizon, 36GD Slate Blue 330 CAT
2011 White Honda CRV EX-L,4WD w/NAV Toad 2008 Caliente Red LVL II GL 1800 Goldwing KI60ND
Thanks to both you guys, Scott thanks for the pic, looks very professional, kinda what I hope mine will look like. PPL RV store in Houston has a 4 gallon bucket with a catalyst you mix with it. It sounds like a good product. I think I will go ahead and order it, I'm in El Paso, and in a few weeks the weather should be about right to apply it. charlie in texas
cdking1,
You're certainly welcome. I thought I had pics of before we started the process. The roof was almost completely black due to the fact that it had lost almost all of it's white coating. Now, Dicor, or EDPM, I can't remember which, says that condition is just fine. They say there's really no need to re-coat the roof. But, if one is going to do it, then use the Dicor components.
I will say, that we kept the Bounder as nice looking as possible at all times. But, in using the prep, the cleaner/sealer, it basically washed off all the wax that was on the coach. And, as my son and I were up on the roof with a pressure washer(recommended by Dicor), the wife was down below with a hose, rinsing the runoff, off the sides of the coach. But, it didn't help that much. We had to was the rig again. NO biggie. Just follow the instructions to the letter and you'll have a bangup job that will last for a long time.
Scott
P.S. The hotter the weather during the process, the better the job will turn out. When we did it, it was 90 and low humidity. A lot of sweating but, the components dried proficiently which allowed for continuation of the next application so that the entire process can be done in one day.
Kool seal makes a primer and coating that works fine, it has been on my roof for three years and is like the day that I put it on, and is a little cheaper than some of the others. Kool seal also makes a cheap roof coating that uses no primer and that is junk.
Will this work on an aluminium 5th and also are supper to take off every thing like the vents / covers and railing. Mine needs to be done also but not sure how to go about it. I would think you would leave every thing so it is sealed. Thanks
kardar2 wrote: Will this work on an aluminium 5th and also are supper to take off every thing like the vents / covers and railing. Mine needs to be done also but not sure how to go about it. I would think you would leave every thing so it is sealed. Thanks
I would leave it all on, except for the A/Cs, to enhance the seals. It would also be a good idea to put down Eternabond's WebSeal on all the seams, penetrations, etc. before coating. WebSeal is like regular Eternabond except it's a bit more flexible and is designed to be coated (in fact, it is required to be coated after applying to be UV resistant). Regular Eternabond is too slick for coatings to stick to properly.
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