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Open Roads Forum  >  Truck Campers

 > Continuous duty solenoid

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mtnstarman

Piney Woods

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Posted: 02/07/12 01:39pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When I'm not using my TC with the DW aboard, I've started using my fiberglass camper shell/cap to camp alone. When I'm "roughing it" I don't need a lot of luxuries, but would like to have a deep cycle battery or two for running fans, lights, etc. My alternator puts out 150 amps, so I'm needing suggestions on a brand and model of contiuous duty solenoid for my situation. Up to two 12v (115 ah each)batteries with a 18' run from chassis battery to the deep cycle batteries. Probably go with two Everstart wallyworld trolling motor batteries that I already have on-hand. What size wire would I need for this distance and should I use a fuse. If so, what size and where should it be installed? Thanks

Boatycall

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Posted: 02/07/12 01:48pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I run 4 Golf carts in my camper, 6 in my toyhauler.

If they're just light duty, lights, fans etc, and no inverter, I'd say running 8ga is fine. Plenty of amperage, and YES, fuse is mandatory.

Here's a way to cheat-- go to Walmart in the car stereo section, and get one of thier Amplifier install kits. Ebay has a ton also if you're not in a hurry. For a small load like this, they come with fuse, fuse holder, and wire.

As far as continuous duty solenoid - Are you wanting it to come on when the truck is running to charge them back up? I use a simple Battery Kill switch. An isolator is also a good choice.


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2012 Eagle Cap 1160-Six 6v Interstate Golf Cart Batteries, 100a truck charging circuit, 2kw Inverter, Dish Tailgator, Ice maker


JoeChiOhki

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Posted: 02/07/12 01:48pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Well, for that run, double the number and that's yer true run length for voltage losses.

So, doing that, yer likely close to mine, so, nothing less than 6 gauge AWG, though 4 gauge would be better, especially if you're goal is to get effective charging from the truck alternator.

I did the 8 gauge, and ended up redoing it all, save yourself the money and do it right the first time.


For the relay, I just used one of these:

Tekonsha 3 Terminal Battery Switch Isolator



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cewillis

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Posted: 02/07/12 03:06pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JoeChiOhki wrote:

Well, for that run, double the number and that's yer true run length for voltage losses.

So, doing that, yer likely close to mine, so, nothing less than 6 gauge AWG, though 4 gauge would be better, especially if you're goal is to get effective charging from the truck alternator.

I did the 8 gauge, and ended up redoing it all, save yourself the money and do it right the first time.


For the relay, I just used one of these:

Tekonsha 3 Terminal Battery Switch Isolator


Joe is right -- do not undersize the wire.


Cal


d3500ram

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Posted: 02/07/12 05:08pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

As Matt suggested I aslo used this same CDS:


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Though not the same truck as you, you can see how I installed this and the breaker in my truck. I would imagine that with sufficient space, the install would be similar: Install of continuous duty solenoid.


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ticki2

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Posted: 02/07/12 03:59pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I used 4 ga , 80 amp circuit breaker each end to protect wiring , 80 amp continuous duty solenoid with lighted on/off switch in cab. You can get the solenoid at most auto parts .


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mtnstarman

Piney Woods

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Posted: 02/07/12 05:34pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Boatycall wrote:

As far as continuous duty solenoid - Are you wanting it to come on when the truck is running to charge them back up? I use a simple Battery Kill switch. An isolator is also a good choice.


Yeah, Boaty. I want to charge the batteries only when the engine is running. I'm too forgetful to use the kill switch.

JoeChiOhki

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Posted: 02/07/12 05:43pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mtnstarman wrote:

Boatycall wrote:

As far as continuous duty solenoid - Are you wanting it to come on when the truck is running to charge them back up? I use a simple Battery Kill switch. An isolator is also a good choice.


Yeah, Boaty. I want to charge the batteries only when the engine is running. I'm too forgetful to use the kill switch.


I just tapped the ignition hot lead that turns my stereo on in my pickup, so that whenever the key goes to right position, it connects the secondary battery under the hood and the rest of the camper circuit.

Joners

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Posted: 02/07/12 05:59pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

cewillis wrote:

JoeChiOhki wrote:

Well, for that run, double the number and that's yer true run length for voltage losses.

So, doing that, yer likely close to mine, so, nothing less than 6 gauge AWG, though 4 gauge would be better, especially if you're goal is to get effective charging from the truck alternator.

I did the 8 gauge, and ended up redoing it all, save yourself the money and do it right the first time.




For the relay, I just used one of these:

Tekonsha 3 Terminal Battery Switch Isolator


Joe is right -- do not undersize the wire.


Joe and "cewillis" are both correct in their reply. And the battery isolator costs about $20.00.

Cap'n Bob


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mtnstarman

Piney Woods

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Posted: 02/07/12 06:05pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JoeChiOhki wrote:


So, doing that, yer likely close to mine, so, nothing less than 6 gauge AWG, though 4 gauge would be better, especially if you're goal is to get effective charging from the truck alternator.


I've got plenty of 10 gauge stranded wire already on hand. Would it be OK to run two of these wires together to come up with an equivalent 4 gauge wire. I read today on a wire gauge site where using 2 wires with the same diameter together would equate to one wire with 6 gauge numbers smaller. If this is correct, my two 10's would result in a 4 gauge wire. Make sense?





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