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 > Winne-will not start

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enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 02/09/12 06:58am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Did you check the "power" fuse location for 12 volts?
Did you check the ECM fuses for power or just check the fuses?
Can you check the ignition switch power output when in start and run postion? I know you get start power but is there ignition power?


Bud
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DANDEAKINS

CHATTANOOGA

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Posted: 02/09/12 08:09am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Gey Gang, Again thanks for quick response (amazing) When I purchased this home in Chattanooga i stopped and put 20 gallon of fuel and it started and ran good all the way home. You guys are putting me to work today.I'll disconnect the fuel line and run it in a jar.(good idea). The other filter at the throttle body??? Is it behind the big nut that the incomming fuel is just before hitting the injectors? I can disconnect the incoming fuel line at the throttle body and fuel will be there.

1995brave

San Antonio, TX

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Posted: 02/09/12 09:12am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yes, the other filter is behind the large nut. It is the same type they have used on carb engines for years. It is a small light brown color cylinder. Watch which way it goes in, you can put them in backwards.

AF_Medic

Cabot, Arkansas

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Posted: 02/09/12 10:03am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Take the gas cap off and then put it back on. See if a lot of pressure is relieved. Worked on my old camaro

enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 02/09/12 10:20am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I was under my rig yesterday. Mine has a device in the vent line that goes to the filler area. Looks like it maybe some type of back flow preventer to stop liquid from coming out the vent.
You may want to look at yours for the same device. There is a hose between it and the tank.

cdking1

el paso, texas usa

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Posted: 02/09/12 10:26am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

HI, if you drove it home and something failed, you must be able to trace it to the source. If you can spray starter fluid down the manifold and it will run you have a fuel problem, period, no guessing, filters will usually clog slowly and you will lose power gradually. There are several ways to do this. Determine if you have fuel at the injectors, throttle body assembly, the gadget that sits on the mamifold opening. You may be able to take the fuel lime loose at the small filter near it. Turn the ignition on, the fuel pump will run for a few seconds and stop if some things does not happen, like engine start, oil pressure up etc. I suspect the fuel pump is not working or has lost the power to work. hope this helps, charlie in texas


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bsinmich

Holland, MI

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Posted: 02/09/12 10:34am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When you said you sprayed starter fluid in the carburetor you are probably mistaken. You should have a Throttle Body Injection system that looks a lot like a carb but isn't. Are you getting a spark? If the fuel is good then you need a spark to make it run. One way to tell if you are getting a spark is to hold the wire while cranking. If you jump more than 6' you have a good spark. You can also just lay a plug wire with a screwdriver in it, close to ground and look for a spark that way. The second choice is a lot safer. New plug wires can also make a big immprovement in performance.


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kalynzoo

Los Angeles , California

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Posted: 02/09/12 10:37am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My previous Holiday Rambler with a 454 had a third fuel line filter, this one located near the propane tank. It was covered with road dust and lucky for me an old time mechanic spotted it when I had engine problems. So in my configuration I had a filter at the tank, one in the middle and one at the carb.
Different MH different manufacturer, same engine.
Good luck.

Daveinet

il

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Posted: 02/09/12 11:37am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

cdking1 wrote:

HI, if you drove it home and something failed, you must be able to trace it to the source. If you can spray starter fluid down the manifold and it will run you have a fuel problem, period, no guessing, filters will usually clog slowly and you will lose power gradually. There are several ways to do this. Determine if you have fuel at the injectors, throttle body assembly, the gadget that sits on the manifold opening. You may be able to take the fuel lime loose at the small filter near it. Turn the ignition on, the fuel pump will run for a few seconds and stop if some things does not happen, like engine start, oil pressure up etc. I suspect the fuel pump is not working or has lost the power to work. hope this helps, charlie in texas
This guy is right, if it will run on starting fluid, the problem is limited to fuel delivery, no need to look at unrelated electrical. When you first turn your key, the fuel pump will blip for about 5 seconds and the injectors will pulse. This means that you would see a slight spray when you first turn the key on. The fuel will be under pressure at that point, so you should see fuel pressure with any release of any fuel fittings. Make sure you here the pump blip when you first turn the key. If you don't, start there. There should be a fuel pump relay, but I have no idea where to find it in your coach. Additional info: Once you turn the key, if you turn it back off, you need to wait about 30 seconds before turning it back on, otherwise the ECM knows it just blipped the pump and won't blip it again.


Dave

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DANDEAKINS

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Posted: 02/09/12 01:09pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hey gang, Here's another update..Check the battery connections and the two house batteries (6 volt) are beond recharging. Both dead.
Check the chassis battery (12v) and all connections were corroded bad. Took cables off and replaced them and also with a new battery. (720 cranking amps) STILL the injectors are not responding. No water was in the fuel and the oil pressure comes up to 40 lbs on gauge. Now is the time to buy a code reader i guess. Are the house batteries in anyway envolved in the motor starting? Thanks gang and please keep looking for me. GOD BLESS

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