reubenray wrote: It is a Keystone Cougar HC 291RLS fifth wheel and I am asking for its tires. I have read several times to check the torque of the tire lug nuts prior to each trip.
Do you have aluminum wheels or steel wheels?
You can't torque most of the aluminum wheels as much as the steel, and you have to check the torque more frequently because of the difference in the expansion and contraction of the aluminum versus the steel lugs.
If you have steel wheels, your Keystone manual says torque to 110 to 120 foot pounds. When changing a tire, they are to be torqued in stages. Your Keystone manual should explain that in detail.
I believe it has aluminum wheels. We pick it up in two weeks.
reubenray wrote: It is a Keystone Cougar HC 291RLS fifth wheel and I am asking for its tires. I have read several times to check the torque of the tire lug nuts prior to each trip.
Do you have aluminum wheels or steel wheels?
You can't torque most of the aluminum wheels as much as the steel, and you have to check the torque more frequently because of the difference in the expansion and contraction of the aluminum versus the steel lugs.
If you have steel wheels, your Keystone manual says torque to 110 to 120 foot pounds. When changing a tire, they are to be torqued in stages. Your Keystone manual should explain that in detail.
I believe it has aluminum wheels. We pick it up in two weeks.
You will want to find out who manufactured the wheels and get specs from them. When I upgraded to aluminum rims, the new ones came with a sheet that specified the torque.
Also, never use an impact wrench with aluminum rims. It is also imperative to use the step torquing technique on trailer rims because they are stud piloted.
one thing you need to do is go to this web site
http://www.keystonerv.com/?page=video_library. it is keystones hoe page and go to customer service and click on video library and they have a video on torquing lug nuts on cougar TT's. very informative and if you are ever in doubt of anything about your cougar you can go to this page and watch the videos on just about any TT that Keystone makes other than the high country series.
old guy wrote: one thing you need to do is go to this web site
http://www.keystonerv.com/?page=video_library. it is keystones hoe page and go to customer service and click on video library and they have a video on torquing lug nuts on cougar TT's. very informative and if you are ever in doubt of anything about your cougar you can go to this page and watch the videos on just about any TT that Keystone makes other than the high country series.
tomman58 wrote: I carry a 13/16 and a 3/4" the torque wrench is quite long but fits under the back seat of the truck. Only needed it a couple of times but it was good to have it when we got a flat. The lug nutstorque at 150# and the long wrench can make thier removal easy.
Just as a side note, I have been told you should NEVER use a torque wrench to loosen a nut or bolt, could damage the accuratecy of the wrench.
And also the last tightning of a bolt or nut should be with the torque wrench. Some people use a impact wrench to tighten and then a torque wrench to check their work, but that can lead to overtightning, because say if the impact tightens to ,say 175 lbs, but the torque value is only 150 and you set your wrench to 150, of course the torque wrench will click at 150 but the nuts are still at 175, so the proper way is to tighten each nut equally and use your torque wrench for the final tightning and make sure that the nut moves at least a little before it clicks and that way you will get a accurate torque.
Othertonka
2004 Southwind 32VS 8.1 Workhorse chassis
2002 CRV Toad
U. S. Gear Unified brake system
Retired Fire Captain, SFD
Walmart has this (below)and it comes with 3 sockets which are the same sizes that everyone is recommending. Amazon has several half inch wrenches that would most likely work. This will work for removing and reinstalling the nuts until the actual torque wrench is done.
I've discussed the torque wrench question with several auto mechanic and some racing friends they say there isn't any problem using the wrench to remove lug nuts. Once the wrench "clicks" it is at a stop and it won't be in the torque range. Also I use a 200 or higher(i don't remember off hand) wrench not one where I am at the end of its scale. Been doing this for some time and have the wrench checked once in a while.
2008 Silverado D/A,CC 4x4 ,3.73,IBC LTZ+
2012 Jayco 322 FKS
2 Trek bikes
Honda EU2000i
It must be time to go, the suns out and I've got a full tank of diesel! Lifes short enough without bitch'n about it!
navegator wrote: First take a socket set, and try the following socket zises, 7/8", 3/4", 13/16", if none of those fit, try some of the other zises.
Once you have determined the correct zise, purchase a good torque wherech, do not buy it at Harbour Freight, those cheap units are extreemly cheap and INACURATE, buy one at Sears, be prepared to pay more than $150.00 +, and purchase one that is FOOT/POUND.
There are some that are INCH/POUND, do not buy one of those, to small, Today, they also come with a metric scale, Meter/Newtons, that way you can use either scale.
Also if need be, purchas an extention, so that you do not bust your knuckles, on the side of the RV.
The zise of the driver, that is best is a 1/2 inch driver, this means that the squeare hole in the socket, and the corresponding square driver are 1/2", they allow you to put more wheight on the torque whrench, with out braking the tool.
Once you have used the tool make shure that you back it down to zero that way the springs in the tool are not in tension, the tool will be more accurate over a longer time.
Hope it helps Navegator
An inexpensive bendy bar torque wrench will do just fine. I carry an old Craftsman one. Save the expensive click wrench for doing the cylinder heads on your Porsche. You may want a breaker bar with a cheater tube extension in case you have to break loose a stuck nut if you get a flat. Have a good socket and extension and keep all this stuff in the RV at all times so you don't forget it. There are various devices that make lifting a wheel easier than using a conventional jack on trailers.
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