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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Make differece how long refrigerator last,gas or eletric

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Gale Hawkins

Murray, KY

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Posted: 02/11/12 10:53pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ex-Tech wrote:

First, the flue that carries the gasses from the burner area is independant of the tubes that carry the ammonia solution so that flame and any residue doesn't affect the tubing that carries the ammonia solution.

Second, I have had considerable experience with the Servel brand of gas absorbtion refrigerators. They use the same cooling technology as today's RV refrigerators.
A friend of mine uses one at his remote property that has no electric service. That Servel is over 30 years old and still works fine. It doesn't even have the option of electric. Gas only.
And, a church camp I was at one time involved with was a property that one had to make a 3 hour hike to get to. When the camp was built in the early 1960's, the Servel refrigeration was brough in by helicopter. Those refrigerators and freezers are still in operation today.

Personally, with current electrical issues that Chris mentioned, I trust the gas operation more than I trust the electric mode.

I still wish I had my old reliable RM76 Dometic that operated on gas or electric and was manually changed from one energy source to another, therby allowing it to operate on gas with no 12-volts needed.


Ex-Tech are not the tubes inside the same shielded flue?

Ex-Tech

West

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Posted: 02/11/12 11:03pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Gale Hawkins wrote:

Ex-Tech wrote:

First, the flue that carries the gasses from the burner area is independant of the tubes that carry the ammonia solution so that flame and any residue doesn't affect the tubing that carries the ammonia solution.

Second, I have had considerable experience with the Servel brand of gas absorbtion refrigerators. They use the same cooling technology as today's RV refrigerators.
A friend of mine uses one at his remote property that has no electric service. That Servel is over 30 years old and still works fine. It doesn't even have the option of electric. Gas only.
And, a church camp I was at one time involved with was a property that one had to make a 3 hour hike to get to. When the camp was built in the early 1960's, the Servel refrigeration was brough in by helicopter. Those refrigerators and freezers are still in operation today.

Personally, with current electrical issues that Chris mentioned, I trust the gas operation more than I trust the electric mode.

I still wish I had my old reliable RM76 Dometic that operated on gas or electric and was manually changed from one energy source to another, therby allowing it to operate on gas with no 12-volts needed.


Ex-Tech are not the tubes inside the same shielded flue?


The flue pipe is an independent tube that runs along side of the tubing that contains the ammonia. The heat is is transfered from the flue tube to the boiler by convection. Same with the tube that contains the electric heating element.
See a diagram HERE.

The flue and coolant tubes are then insulated and wrapped within a sheet metal shield.

Chris Bryant

DeLand, Florida, USA

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Posted: 02/12/12 06:00am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

h2guy wrote:

Chris Bryant wrote:

FWIW, every recall related failure on these refrigerators, both Dometic and Norcold, is due to electric operation causing stress related cracks where the heating element holder is welded to the cooling unit.


I've replaced heating elements on two different Dometics and neither "element holder" is welded to ANY part of the cooling unit.

They're an "L" shaped heating rod that is shoved into a hole in the chimney


Sorry, but you are wrong. This is a picture from the sticky Dometic recall thread- I've added a couple of notations.



I happen to know what I'm talking about.


-- Chris Bryant
My RV Service Blog
The RV.net Blog

h2guy

Ain't seen a sign yet!

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Posted: 02/12/12 11:44am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Pardner, you're correct!

Apparently when I'm inserting a new element, I'm actually sticking it into that element holder you've depicted. Since it (the element holder) is enclosed in the flue and surrounded by fibreglass stuffing, I missed the fact that its going into a "tube" (the holder).

My apoligies.


Rick & Carolyn
01 Ford SC 4x4 DRW
01 CarriLite 5ver


Chris Bryant

DeLand, Florida, USA

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Posted: 02/12/12 12:45pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hey- I never make misteaks!



Super Guy 78

Augusta, GA

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Posted: 02/16/12 02:14pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My unit ia 15 years old and the gas/electric gave out so priced new one and found out it about $2000.00 so went to Lowes and for $250 have a electric Ref. only, bigger unit in same space and I keep it running all the time, down the road with Genset running and plug in at home. Wife just love it. It was easy to install, no window to take, went through the door just fine. Only had to figure out to keep it close, came up with a latch that work just fine.

Gale Hawkins

Murray, KY

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Posted: 02/16/12 05:53pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Super Guy 78 wrote:

My unit ia 15 years old and the gas/electric gave out so priced new one and found out it about $2000.00 so went to Lowes and for $250 have a electric Ref. only, bigger unit in same space and I keep it running all the time, down the road with Genset running and plug in at home. Wife just love it. It was easy to install, no window to take, went through the door just fine. Only had to figure out to keep it close, came up with a latch that work just fine.


Ours was the same age. We replaced the cooling unit for $400 to keep the RV propane frig feature. If propane is not needed all electric is the way to go if you do not have to add solar/batteries/etc then still it can be the best option. We did have fun with upgrades when we replaced the cooling unit.

dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 02/16/12 08:28pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

smkettner wrote:

I thought part of the recall issues were too much heat from electric..


Dometics was caused by a higher wattage heat Element rather than the correct 325 Watt. If I had a Dometic under the recall I would replace the heat Element with a 325 and install the recall kit. I have had only 1 customer out of hundreds that took my advice. Doug

dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 02/16/12 08:43pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

h2guy wrote:

Pardner, you're correct!

Apparently when I'm inserting a new element, I'm actually sticking it into that element holder you've depicted. Since it (the element holder) is enclosed in the flue and surrounded by fibreglass stuffing, I missed the fact that its going into a "tube" (the holder).

My apoligies.


Are you a professional RV tech???? I hope NOT. This discussion is the VERY basic info that any qualified RV tech should know and understand. The Boiler tube is welded to the Chimney Flue and the 120 inserts are welded to the boiler housing also. There is NO Convection going on at all. It is direct metal to metal heat transfer. If you look at the cooling unit links, you will see the BAFFLE that is required of the LP flame to diffuse the heat evenly around the chimney, otherwise the heat from the LP flame would go straight up and not transfer the BTU's of heat correctly. The 120 element is direct HEAT to HEAT transfer on the boiler tube also. The design of the system is for BOTH sources to supply the correct BTU's of heat to operate the system. IMO, there is no advantage using LP or 120 unless your 120 element has a too high wattage per spec. Dometic recall refers usually had a too high wattage element rather than the 325 required and that caused a premature failure of the weld and burst the cooling unit. Using LP instead of 120 is advisable when your 120 source is below 108 volts. LOW voltage will cause the 120 element to not heat as hot. Doug

h2guy

Ain't seen a sign yet!

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Posted: 02/17/12 12:55pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

dougrainer wrote:

h2guy wrote:

Pardner, you're correct!

Apparently when I'm inserting a new element, I'm actually sticking it into that element holder you've depicted. Since it (the element holder) is enclosed in the flue and surrounded by fibreglass stuffing, I missed the fact that its going into a "tube" (the holder).

My apoligies.


Are you a professional RV tech???? I hope NOT. This discussion is the VERY basic info that any qualified RV tech should know and understand. The Boiler tube is welded to the Chimney Flue and the 120 inserts are welded to the boiler housing also. There is NO Convection going on at all. It is direct metal to metal heat transfer. If you look at the cooling unit links, you will see the BAFFLE that is required of the LP flame to diffuse the heat evenly around the chimney, otherwise the heat from the LP flame would go straight up and not transfer the BTU's of heat correctly. The 120 element is direct HEAT to HEAT transfer on the boiler tube also. The design of the system is for BOTH sources to supply the correct BTU's of heat to operate the system. IMO, there is no advantage using LP or 120 unless your 120 element has a too high wattage per spec. Dometic recall refers usually had a too high wattage element rather than the 325 required and that caused a premature failure of the weld and burst the cooling unit. Using LP instead of 120 is advisable when your 120 source is below 108 volts. LOW voltage will cause the 120 element to not heat as hot. Doug


NO, I'm not. And what the H E double hockey sticks has your overly techno babble have to do with me inserting a heating element correctly?

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