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Open Roads Forum  >  Towing

 > Lack of clearance on Reese Dual Cam

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Bob Landry

Austin, texas

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Posted: 02/12/12 01:20pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'm with Turk. I would go back and do a fresh adjustment of the hitch and dual cam. Also, don't try to get clearance by "tweaking" the hitch head. That adjustment determines weight transfer to the front axle and once that's right, leave it alone. Also Reese says to have minimum of five links and round bars should be parallel with the trailer tongue and the trunnion bars point down a little. If you need more weight transferred to the front, do it by tilting the hitch ball, not taking up a link on the chain. Also the hitch head angle isn't used to level the truck or the trailer, that's done by moving the entire hitch up or down in the shank. Lots of variables and I'm not going to write the entire set of instructions here. Read the stickies until you understand it completely. It's not rocket science, but you do have to understand how the hitch works to set it up properly.

Also, on the dual cam, be sure the 18" dimension is from the center of the hitch ball to the pivot pin in the bracket and not where the bar sets on the cam. If it says 18", that's what it is, not 18.5". I think your hitch was improperly set up initially.


2011 Tundra 5.7L
2011 Keystone Outback 277RL

Bob/Olallawa

Kitsap Co, WA/ Bullhead City AZ

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Posted: 02/12/12 01:41pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bob Landry wrote:

I'm with Turk. I would go back and do a fresh adjustment of the hitch and dual cam. Also, don't try to get clearance by "tweaking" the hitch head. That adjustment determines weight transfer to the front axle and once that's right, leave it alone It's not rocket science, but you do have to understand how the hitch works to set it up properly.


No it is not rocket science, IF YOU NEED MORE LINKS UNDER TENSION, which improves clearance, YOU NEED TO "Tweak" TILT THE HEAD TO THE REAR, which in turn lowers the end of the bar. And or add a raised ball and drop the head on the shank the same amount to maintain proper ball height.


Lord, grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change, the courage to change the things I can, and the wisdom to hide the bodies of those people I had to kill because they pissed me off.

Bob Landry

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Posted: 02/12/12 02:02pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you start with a minumum of five links which Reese instructions say to do, that gives you the needed clearance so that the WD bars do not hit the trailer frame during turns. That is assuming that the hitch height and the ball height are approximately the same when you start, which I think the instructions from Reese also say to do. A raised ball would only be needed if you needed to change the tilt/level of the trailer and there were no holes either up or down in which to move the bolt that determines ball height. That's what raises the tongue. It does nothing to change WD to the front axle. I say it does nothing. Perhaps it could if you were really far off at the beginning of the process, but if you read and follow the instructions, you shouldn't be.

Bob/Olallawa

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Posted: 02/12/12 03:26pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bob,I don't think you understand his problem, it isn't the trailer frame he is hitting it is the coupler of the dualcam. He needs to increase the number of links under tension to provide the needed clearance. I found with my set up which is very similar to his, I needed 7 or 8 links under tension to provide the needed clearance not the 5 as you suggest. The only way to increase the number of links is 1. tilt the head back which drops the end of the bar which increases the number of links under tension. Yes you need to check how much weight you are putting back on the front axle and adjust links after you tilt the head. 2. Use a raised ball to increase the distance and number of links under tension. This also provides extra clearance between the trunnion ends at the hitch head and the end of frame under the coupler which can also be a problem with the 6 inch or deeper frames and coupler at the top.Yes you need to adjust the hitch on the shank also. The other thing to check is to be sure the bars are rated at least close to the tongue weight, if not, putting weight back to the front axle and still have clearance between the bars and the coupler of the dual cam is next to impossible. Yes,if he moved the cam attachment to the frame closer to the ball coupler he would also gain some clearance as the angle would change. I would try increasing the number of links under tension before drilling more holes in frame.

gktsuda1956

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Posted: 02/12/12 03:32pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Reese install movie at bottom of page

This website has a couple of really nice installation videos, "Video of Reese Weight Distribution w/out Shank - Trunnion Bar - 12,000 lbs GTW, 1,200 lbs TW", at the bottom of the page.


Glenn
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kpratte

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Posted: 02/12/12 03:46pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ok, lets see if I can answer all of the questions..
- Skip wrote: "From the photos it APPEARS that it would only happen when reversing so simply not turning as sharply may be the solution if that's the case" -- Yup, but the problem is that I absolutely have to drop the WD bars coming into my driveway otherwise I crash on the cam yoke.
- I have 1200lb round bars.
- Camper is 6500 dry, with 3000lb cargo, bringing GVWR at 9500. I believe I'm no higher than 8000lb loaded. At 9500lb * 13% = 1235lb thus the 1200lb bars.
- Camper is level when hitched, truck levels when hitched. Front of trunk (Tundra) rises 1/4 to 1/2", rear drops 2 - 3".
- Dealer already looked at it and said it was within spec. Personally I think they have no clue as they set it up with barely any weight on the bars and even put the end of the u-bolts facing inward.
- The 18 - 18.5 is the distance between the center of the hitch ball to the pivot pin in the cam bracket.
- I'm at 6 links under tension (total of 9 links).

Ok, so I re-read the sticky and comments and I believe I need increase my head angle to get back to 7 or 8 links under tension. Only part that stinks is that I only have one more notch to go:

On the left with the arrow is the #2, with the #1 next going clockwise.

I'm thinking this will give me enough clearance on the cam yoke so that the bar doesn't hit it and should keep the tension up to transfer some weight.

- Ken


2010 Toyota Tundra 5.7 CrewMax Limited, TRD Swaybar, Timbrens, Bilstein HD shocks
2012 Keystone Sprinter 272BHS
Reese DC Sway, Fastway Flip, Tekonsha P3
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JBarca

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Posted: 02/12/12 05:54pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi Ken,

You have now showed us an important part of your hitch, the hitch head.

You have the Reese standard round bar head, the pre 2010 HP DC and what appears to be a 6" wide A frame with the ball coupler on top. That combination is going to have some setup problems with the round bar head.

The issue with the "Reese" standard round bar head when used with the DC is the lack of rearward hitch head tilt. While you have a hex washer to adjust the ball tilt, there are only 2 positions that allow any rear tilt. About a max of 6 to 7 degrees. And if the shank to receiver pin box fit has some play in it you just about eat up most of the tilt dealing with the play.

I can see they drilled the DC brackets on in the wrong place.

Edit: 2-13-12 Corrected wording mix up on direction of frame plate
They needed to actually move the DC frame plate more towards the tow ball as you are just about out of DC adjustment. However once we get you in the right relationship are you might be OK. Too early to tell right now.

We can help you make the best out of what you have to work with but we need to see a side pic of the entire hitch hooked up to the truck and camper. With the camper loaded so the tongue weight is loaded and the gear in the back of the truck is already there too. There are a hand full of options on how to change the relationship between the WD bar and the DC yoke lobe so that you do not hit during a turn.

What it sounds like you are up against is the vertical distance between the tow ball and the DC cam lobe. That and the Reese standard round bar hitch head. Odds are high going to more links under tension will not give you the right WD on the truck and you are going to run out of rear hitch head tilt.

Get us some good pics and we can help guide you on how to make the best out of what you have to work with. Need a side pic like this. This is the trunnion bar setup but the pic needs to show this on your setup.

Hope this helps





Odds are high you are going to need one of these, hi rise tow ball to lower your hitch head down to start creating the right relationship between the tow ball and the DC lobe. You are too high right now.



* This post was edited 02/13/12 10:46am by JBarca *


John & Cindy

2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10
CC, SB, Lariat & FX4 package
21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR
Ford Tow Command
1,700# Reese HP hitch & HP Dual Cam
2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver

2004 Sunline Solaris T310SR
(I wish we were camping!)


TURK2500

SE Michigan

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Posted: 02/12/12 08:54pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JBarca wrote:

snip..... They needed to actually go back further as you are just about out of DC adjustment.....snip

John,

When you say "go back further", I assume you mean in the direction of the ball coupler (closer to).



Bob


02 Chevy, 2500HD/4x4, 6.0L/4:10, GVWR 9,200lbs., GCWR 16,000lbs.
05 Jayco Eagle, 278FBS, GVWR 9,000lbs.
TV/TT loaded: 14,700lbs.
Loaded Tongue Weight: 1,250lbs.
Loaded TT weight: 8,400
Putnam XDR Class V, Reese HP Dual Cam.


kpratte

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Posted: 02/13/12 04:10am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JBarca wrote:

You have the Reese standard round bar head, the pre 2010 HP DC and what appears to be a 6" wide A frame with the ball coupler on top. That combination is going to have some setup problems with the round bar head.
That be the one.

Quote:

While you have a hex washer to adjust the ball tilt, there are only 2 positions that allow any rear tilt.
So, should I change it to the last available one that gives me a little more tilt?

Quote:

I can see they drilled the DC brackets on in the wrong place. They needed to actually go back further as you are just about out of DC adjustment.
Ok, so when you say "back" are you saying they should be closer or further away from the hitch head?

Quote:

Odds are high you are going to need one of these, hi rise tow ball to lower your hitch head down to start creating the right relationship between the tow ball and the DC lobe.
Interesting, so if I understand what this does correctly, it will give me the ability to add more tension to the WD bars while staying at the same # of links under tension?

I don't have any pictures of it all setup because it's like 20F here.. Granted it's been a basically snowless Winter in New England, except for that October snowstorm, so I should be able to play with it next weekend.

- Ken

JBarca

Dublin, Ohio, USA

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Posted: 02/13/12 10:43am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

TURK2500 wrote:

JBarca wrote:

snip..... They needed to actually go back further as you are just about out of DC adjustment.....snip

John,

When you say "go back further", I assume you mean in the direction of the ball coupler (closer to).



Bob


Bob, you are correct. I opps'ed.... brain thinking one way, fingers typing the other way. The DC frame plate would move towards the tow ball.

kpratte, I will type to you tonight a response when I have more time and access to my pile of pics. Be back soon.

Thanks

John

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