So in a nutshell here is my problem, under tight turns the WD bars hit the cam arm above the nut. Here is what the cam arm looks like:
On my previous camper my setup looked like this and I had no issues:
When they setup the camper they left only two rings hanging free, seven between snap up and cam. When I hitched up with the 1200lb bars, I noticed that it was easier than with my previous camper with 800lb bars and 3 free rings. I then changed the current camper setup to 3 free rings and it was much heavier than the 800lb bars.
I checked the installation instructions and they say that the pivot point for the cam arm should be 18" back from the hitch ball socket. Mine is pretty close, maybe 18, 18.5.
So, short of moving the cam arm attachment forward 2", anybody got an idea why there is such a huge difference? And any ideas on how to fix?
- Ken
2010 Toyota Tundra 5.7 CrewMax Limited, TRD Swaybar, Timbrens, Bilstein HD shocks
2012 Keystone Sprinter 272BHS
Reese DC Sway, Fastway Flip, Tekonsha P3
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Is the tow vehicle and trailer EVEN when hitched up or is the tongue a little on the high side? Might lower the hitchhead slightly to create more clearance, then compensate by applying more spring bar pressure (tilting to the rear). From the photos it APPEARS that it would only happen when reversing so simply not turning as sharply may be the solution if that's the case.
Good luck / Skip
2011 F-150 HD Ecoboost 3.5 V6. 2550 payload, 17,100 GCVWR - 2004 F-150 HD (Traded after 80,000 towing miles) 2007 Rockwood 8314SS 34' travel trailer
US Govt survey shows three out of four people make up 75% of the total population
I seem to always carry the wet blanket but .............. Take your unit to the dealer of choice and let them be the guiding light on this issue. There have been several times on this site that much info is given on this kind of issue but some is good and some very bad. Everyone tries to help but on something as important as this from a towing point and a turning point go to the experts!
2008 Silverado D/A,CC 4x4 ,3.73,IBC LTZ+
2012 Jayco 322 FKS
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Honda EU2000i
It must be time to go, the suns out and I've got a full tank of diesel! Lifes short enough without bitch'n about it!
What I see is the difference in the frame sizes. You may have to readjust your hitch head angle to get the clearance you need.
From what little I know, a top mounted hitch on a large frame usually dictates the use of round bar setup rather than the trunnion type it looks like you have.
Without a few more photos the one observation I make is that your new frame is taller than the old one-which will definitely change the geometry of the bars to hitch and angle(meaning you'd have to move the mounts back some to maintain the proper angles-or tilt the head back more-I think)-have you considered this?
Sounds like you need a fresh set-up/adjustment, and/or fine tuning...., and keep in mind even a minor adjustment at the WDH/DC may impact the weight distribution between the TV & TT.
In some cases where the TT ball coupler is welded to the top of the A-frame in conjunction with a wide TT frame interferences can be an issue, but in most cases there are solutions.
To give you a detailed walk through in adjusting the Reese HP Dual Cam (and interference solutions), please refer to the the lower portion of this Towing forum sticky for some guidance: Reese HP Dual Cam Install/Adjustment
If the information in the 'sticky' falls short of addressing your problem, please post back. Also, if you have a pic of your new TV/TT combination hitched-up, that would be helpful to.
Go online and download a manual. Follow steps carefully for ball height, ball angle, bar angle etc. It is very critical. Don't trust that it was done properly.
Can you post a pick with the trunion bars in (all hooked up and trip ready).
From the pic above, I can't get a clear idea of what is going on.
Also, if appears that you have the whole set up bolted too far forward.??
You know, this is what I was thinking too when I saw the pic. It really looks like the assembly is too close to the ball.
I think if he tries to move it any more to the rear he will run out of threads for the rear nut. Proper position would have the inside nut close to center of threaded shaft not one end or the other and the round carrier end for the bar has to end up in the same place so if he moved it toward the rear any more the the shaft would be moving into the coupler not away from it. Head tilt to the rear and maybe a raised ball will help with the clearance. If his tongue weight is more than the bar rating he needs to get heavier bars. I fought the same problem, went to 1500 lb bars, tilted the head as far back as I could and put on a raised ball. Problem solved.
Lord, grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change, the courage to change the things I can, and the wisdom to hide the bodies of those people I had to kill because they pissed me off.
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