I have an additional question: I've removed the EGR and blocked it off. I did not replace the oil cooler at that time because I had a short window to get the repair done and I didn't have a new oil cooler to put in.
I still get the wrench light when I'm on the highway for an extended time, and that's about the only time it happens. Can any further damage be caused if I don't replace the oil cooler ASAP? The way I understand these threads on the 6.oL, it's the failure of the EGR valve (caused by a blocked oil cooler) that causes a vast majority of the engine problems.
RVBlade wrote: I have an additional question: I've removed the EGR and blocked it off. I did not replace the oil cooler at that time because I had a short window to get the repair done and I didn't have a new oil cooler to put in.
I still get the wrench light when I'm on the highway for an extended time, and that's about the only time it happens. Can any further damage be caused if I don't replace the oil cooler ASAP? The way I understand these threads on the 6.oL, it's the failure of the EGR valve (caused by a blocked oil cooler) that causes a vast majority of the engine problems.
Just looking for some guidance. Thanks.
You can burst the oil cooler, which runs oil/coolant milkshake throughout your engine. Chances are you would be replacing the engine.
I would do the oil cooler ASAP! Or at least try to back flush the******out of it and flush the whole cooling system. I refilled with chevron premixed ELC red coolant my company uses in all our diesel rigs. I did my oil cooler and egr tube myself using the complete kit from Bulletproofdiesel.com It is quite pricey but well worth the piece of mind. I now pull 12k with a delta of barely 10deg. Empty is 2-3 deg. It took me about 22 hours to complete the job with the hardest part for me was getting the turbo to uppipe flange to realign. Simple hand tools and all parts,gaskets and extras were included in the BPD kit.... Plus a neat little beer coozy!
Oil cooler was located in front void where the flashlight is sitting..
When I was all done dissasembling and cleaning, I was too tired to take more pix of reassembly....sorry guys. But here you have an idea of what your looking at.
* This post was
edited 02/12/12 09:33pm by 07PSDCREW *
2007 Ford F350 6.0 CC SB
Fully bulletproofed/EGR/ARP Studs
Reese 16k round tube slider hitch.
2000 Damon Hornet 2850BH 5er
Days camped 2011= 34 2012= 46
2011 Palomino Maverick 1000SLLB on a 2004 Dodge Quadcab CTD Ram3500 SRW long bed equipped with Timbren springs, Stable Load bump stops, Rickson 19.5" wheels/"G" range tires and a Helwig "Big Wig" rear anti sway bar.
07PSDCREW wrote: I would do the oil cooler ASAP! Or at least try to back flush the******out of it and flush the whole cooling system. I refilled with chevron premixed ELC red coolant my company uses in all our diesel rigs. I did my oil cooler and egr tube myself using the complete kit from Bulletproofdiesel.com It is quite pricey but well worth the piece of mind. I now pull 12k with a delta of barely 10deg. Empty is 2-3 deg. It took me about 22 hours to complete the job with the hardest part for me was getting the turbo to uppipe flange to realign. Simple hand tools and all parts,gaskets and extras were included in the BPD kit.... Plus a neat little beer coozy!
Oil cooler was located in front void where the flashlight is sitting..
When I was all done dissasembling and cleaning, I was too tired to take more pix of reassembly....sorry guys. But here you have an idea of what your looking at.
Great pictures...but how would I know with my apparent lack of credentials...
RVblade
When the EGR cooler failed in my 2004 6.0. I deleted it using the First Coast Diesel kit. I did not replace the oil cooler as I was unaware of the real genesis of the problem. 14000 miles later the oil cooler exploded making the biggest mess I have ever seen...and costly. You need to get that oil cooler out of the truck.
Regards
Ricatic
Debbie and Savannah the Wonderdachsund
2009 Big Horn 3055RL
2006 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 Dually LTX with the Gold Standard LBZ Engine and Allison Transmission
2011 F350 Lariat SRW CC SB 4WD 6.7 Diesel POS Gone Bye Bye
The first thing to do is to reflash to latest firmware, which from 2005 onwards, will light the wrench light if there is a temp spread above spec.
That will give you warning of impending failure --- if the light is on all the time, you are toast if you do nothing.
Do the common sense thing and do a check of the oil and coolant temperature sensors for malfunction.
If the sensors are "off spec" you can have a mountain created out of a molehill.
Check wiring --- check sensors for linearity --- or better yet, replace the sensors with new and verify the wiring if the vehicle is more than 4 or 5 years old.
Only after you assume the data from the critical sensors are good data should you try to interpret / act on them --- unless it is otherwise obvious.
* This post was
edited 02/13/12 07:43am by NewsW *
We also had over heating problems when pulling our 5er up long grades with F350 6.0. Ford replaced the egr oil cooler then they replaced the head gasgets and at mechanics suggestion we put in and paid for ARP head bolts as Fords bolts stretch which is the problem. Bolts cost around $400.00 on line. We actually have the pictures of the process as they had to remove the trucks cab. Not a quick fix truck was in shop for about a week.
I think I should reset the Scangauge first. May be the sensor are out, but they read equal after a cold soak in the morning, could they go bezirk when hot? I do not think I need a reflash, I can check the gauge. As I see it from all your post and the ones at Ford enthusiast , the cooler replacement is a must if my readings are accurate.
I cannot do it myself right now since I am on the road, and the dealer would probably charge me an arm and a leg. I have about 2000 miles to go back home. The dealer said everything was OK 2 days ago with the computor connected but he could not tell me what was the EOT he just said it was OK, may be I should try another dealer and see what he says.
I am not too far from Powerstrokehelp.com in Georgia, he advertizes on youtube but some told me he was a bit creepee, who knows. I do not want to do the job half way and still with a problem, I am planning to go to Alaska in May, I am worry a bit.
Supreme Oppressor wrote: Plugged oil cooler starves EGR cooler which then fails, which will soon take out the head gaskets. Personally I would fix the oil cooler and install a coolant filter to help keep new oil cooler from plugging up.
Yep your right on. Ford spec is 15 deg I dont know why they would tell the guy it was ok.
2000 Ford F-350 SRW 4X4 PSD Jayco Super Lite 29.5RKS (31') 5th wheel 50 gal X-ferflow in the bed tank. Banks big exhaust and Stinger kit.
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