Carry 5 gallons of distilled water for emergencies... and ditto Ford Gold coolant to mix to prevent freezing. .
I don't know if you guys realize but FORD GOLD is what is responsible for the problems. It works great in a 3.0 Taurus motor but is not suited for 6.0 territory.
The silicates break down and clog the cooler because of the high heat in the 6.0 oil system and engine when operating....only to be doubled once the cooler starts to clog.
International does not run FORD GOLD in their 6.0 applications.... So why should you? After all, they built the motor....yes it is detuned in a big truck application but it still works just as hard.
Do yourself a favor and DITCH ford gold for a superior ELC made for big trucks with no silicates.......Chevron Delo Extended life coolant red is a good one. It is premixed also.
If you insist on running gold, at least do a complete flush every year or two years depending on your style of driving.
2007 Ford F350 6.0 CC SB
Fully bulletproofed/EGR/ARP Studs
Reese 16k round tube slider hitch.
2000 Damon Hornet 2850BH 5er
Days camped 2011= 34 2012= 46
Carry 5 gallons of distilled water for emergencies... and ditto Ford Gold coolant to mix to prevent freezing. .
I don't know if you guys realize but FORD GOLD is what is responsible for the problems. It works great in a 3.0 Taurus motor but is not suited for 6.0 territory.
The silicates break down and clog the cooler because of the high heat in the 6.0 oil system and engine when operating....only to be doubled once the cooler starts to clog.
International does not run FORD GOLD in their 6.0 applications.... So why should you? After all, they built the motor....yes it is detuned in a big truck application but it still works just as hard.
Do yourself a favor and DITCH ford gold for a superior ELC made for big trucks with no silicates.......Chevron Delo Extended life coolant red is a good one. It is premixed also.
If you insist on running gold, at least do a complete flush every year or two years depending on your style of driving.
AFAIK, there have never been a change in Ford' Recommended coolant for the 6.0.
There was a change in terms of testing coolant regularly.
What I say applies to factory vehicles that are not modded, running on tuners, or otherwise stressing the cooling system beyond normal.
I seriously do not believe the coolant is the problem, but I have every reason to think MIXING of coolant of different chemistries, etc. or the use of not known compatible coolant additives is a problem.
As for the people who changed coolant, the first thing I worry about is how much stuff from the old coolant is in there that was not removed?
Including deposits of scale, etc. and how does that affect the next coolant?
Having said that, I am for cleaning with VC-9, repeat twice if needed, and then replacing coolant with a factory recommended coolant mix and fill.
AFAIK, there have never been a change in Ford' Recommended coolant for the 6.0.
There was a change in terms of testing coolant regularly.
What I say applies to factory vehicles that are not modded, running on tuners, or otherwise stressing the cooling system beyond normal.
I seriously do not believe the coolant is the problem, but I have every reason to think MIXING of coolant of different chemistries, etc. or the use of not known compatible coolant additives is a problem.
As for the people who changed coolant, the first thing I worry about is how much stuff from the old coolant is in there that was not removed?
Including deposits of scale, etc. and how does that affect the next coolant?
Having said that, I am for cleaning with VC-9, repeat twice if needed, and then replacing coolant with a factory recommended coolant mix and fill.
The coolant breaks down causing the clog! The clog causes over heated oil! The blocked cooler causes egr cooler to heat up and stress crack leaking coolant into intake. This was happening to people in just 30k miles that "used" thier trucks. How can it not be a main cause?
When I said "flush" the system I shouldn't have assumed that everyone knew that meant all of it. Install the petcocks on each side of the block...blow out the block with air...clean and flush radiator ...etc. I found the best time to do it was when I had the motor apart....but not everyone can do that. I agree on the vc9. You could always drain and flush completely and run it with vc9 and then drain and flush again after 100 miles or so to get the "old" out. In my personal expirience, when I removed the factory cooler, I cut it in half to inspect and found slime and chunks in the cooler and sand in the drain bucket after running vc9 before the project started. I only had 12-14 degree delta on the highway and 7-9 any other time. I can imagine the cooler on 30 deg differences.
Also, my rig isn't modded or chipped. Just Exaust ....
RVBlade wrote: I have an additional question: I've removed the EGR and blocked it off. I did not replace the oil cooler at that time because I had a short window to get the repair done and I didn't have a new oil cooler to put in.
I still get the wrench light when I'm on the highway for an extended time, and that's about the only time it happens. Can any further damage be caused if I don't replace the oil cooler ASAP? The way I understand these threads on the 6.oL, it's the failure of the EGR valve (caused by a blocked oil cooler) that causes a vast majority of the engine problems.
Just looking for some guidance. Thanks.
Removal of the EGR valve means that the ECM controlled fan no longer comes on properly, and you are in a mild limp mode...
On the mild limp mode, fuel economy goes down, fuel consumption goes up apparently to generate the same amount of power.
A properly functioning EGR system LOWERS combustion temperature and with it, the load on the cooling system.
If the EGR valve fails to open and close properly, combustion temperature rises --- which means not only higher emissions, but also higher combustion temperature.
Thin the computer reacts to a bad EGR valve (not working) by altering injection timing or other parameters to lower combustion temperature, but at the expense of fuel efficiency.
Without access to the source code or exhaustive black box diagnostics, there is no way to know.
I think you mean blocked oil cooler caused the EGR COOLER (Not valve) to fail.
You are correct. I meant the EGR cooler. I put a delete kit on. I only get the wrench light intermittently, usually when I've been driving on the interstate for a decent period of time. I also get it when I'm pulling my TT, but usually on the highway also.
This thread is actually the first time that I've seen the wrench light tied to the difference in the temps, but had my suspicion for some time. Luckily, I haven't had a failure up to this point. I just checked the oil this morning and it's the color it's supposed to be. I just pulled the FICM out and I'm sending it off to have it checked, fixed, and hot-modded. I'll just leave the truck off line until I get a new oil cooler put in, which should solve my issues. I'm supposed to pick up my new 5er towards the end of the first week in March and have to pull it about 5 hours back home. The new 5er is about double the weight of my current TT, so I want these issues fixed before making the trip.
Here's to hoping this solves the problem and keeps my truck running like a top....
You are correct. I meant the EGR cooler. I put a delete kit on. I only get the wrench light intermittently, usually when I've been driving on the interstate for a decent period of time. I also get it when I'm pulling my TT, but usually on the highway also.
Basically you are on the verge of oil cooler failure.
This thread is actually the first time that I've seen the wrench light tied to the difference in the temps, but had my suspicion for some time. Luckily, I haven't had a failure up to this point. I just checked the oil this morning and it's the color it's supposed to be.
It was a new flash that activated that function.. didn't come that way from factory.
I just pulled the FICM out and I'm sending it off to have it checked, fixed, and hot-modded.
You took a perfectly working FICM out to have it "hot modded"?
May God have mercy on your breakdown a year or so hence.
I'll just leave the truck off line until I get a new oil cooler put in, which should solve my issues.
EGR delete means fan will not work properly.
I'm supposed to pick up my new 5er towards the end of the first week in March and have to pull it about 5 hours back home. The new 5er is about double the weight of my current TT, so I want these issues fixed before making the trip.
Don't tell me you bought a "hot mod" FICM...
If I were in your shoes, I would be at wherever you sent it via helicopter rappelled insertion, and demanding my unmodded FICM back from them at (name your favorite weapon) point.
You are correct. I meant the EGR cooler. I put a delete kit on. I only get the wrench light intermittently, usually when I've been driving on the interstate for a decent period of time. I also get it when I'm pulling my TT, but usually on the highway also.
Basically you are on the verge of oil cooler failure.
This thread is actually the first time that I've seen the wrench light tied to the difference in the temps, but had my suspicion for some time. Luckily, I haven't had a failure up to this point. I just checked the oil this morning and it's the color it's supposed to be.
It was a new flash that activated that function.. didn't come that way from factory.
I just pulled the FICM out and I'm sending it off to have it checked, fixed, and hot-modded.
You took a perfectly working FICM out to have it "hot modded"?
May God have mercy on your breakdown a year or so hence.
I'll just leave the truck off line until I get a new oil cooler put in, which should solve my issues.
EGR delete means fan will not work properly.
I'm supposed to pick up my new 5er towards the end of the first week in March and have to pull it about 5 hours back home. The new 5er is about double the weight of my current TT, so I want these issues fixed before making the trip.
Don't tell me you bought a "hot mod" FICM...
If I were in your shoes, I would be at wherever you sent it via helicopter rappelled insertion, and demanding my unmodded FICM back from them at (name your favorite weapon) point.
You assumed it was working properly. It is showing signs of needing repair, which is another common occurrence with the 6.0L. Many so-called injector failures have actually been a problem with the FICM.
As for the "hot mod", they simply up the voltage output from 48 volts to 57-58 volts. All this does is cause the injectors to open more quickly. I have not seen anything in my research or with talking with those who have done this that have found it to cause any issues whatsoever. I haven't sent the unit off yet, but will tomorrow or the next day. If I find any information that shows it may be detrimental, I'll have the fix done to OEM standards.
As for the "hot mod", they simply up the voltage output from 48 volts to 57-58 volts. All this does is cause the injectors to open more quickly. I have not seen anything in my research or with talking with those who have done this that have found it to cause any issues whatsoever. I haven't sent the unit off yet, but will tomorrow or the next day. If I find any information that shows it may be detrimental, I'll have the fix done to OEM standards.
I got a 120V mod I want to sell you...
While you are asking about the "OEM standards"...
Ask about the values and ratings of the parts they are replacing, especially the capacitors.
* This post was
edited 02/13/12 07:03pm by NewsW *
As for the "hot mod", they simply up the voltage output from 48 volts to 57-58 volts. All this does is cause the injectors to open more quickly. I have not seen anything in my research or with talking with those who have done this that have found it to cause any issues whatsoever. I haven't sent the unit off yet, but will tomorrow or the next day. If I find any information that shows it may be detrimental, I'll have the fix done to OEM standards.
I got a 120V mod I want to sell you...
That was uncalled for. Have a nice night.
All parts are mil spec. The unit is repaired to better than OEM condition, and comes with a lifetime warranty.
* This post was
edited 02/13/12 07:52pm by RVBlade *
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