Does anyone out their have experience with a Kohler carb rebuild or replacement? I removed the air filter and tried spraying carb cleaner into the intake but no luck. It's a 1997 model with 157 hours on it and I think the problem (besides lack of use) is in the carb from old gas that has clogged it up. Not many techs out their want to get involved with this project and I need to know how involved it is to get to the carb and if it is possible to do without pulling the gen set out for repair. Anyone been their and done that? Thanks as always, Bob.
Spraying stuff in throat is a complete waste of time and money. If you can get to the throttle plate, you can probably get the carburetor off and get it serviced or do that yourself. It will probably have to be opened and cleaned properly. It will probably need a gasket kit to be reassembled and may well need a new needle and seat as those may be hurt during cleaning.
1997 is the build year, not the model. The model will be a number like 4RM60. When you have this number, shop small engine parts suppliers for a carburetor kit. If that fails, get the carburetor off and look for a manufacturer and model number on that and start the search again.
It is not that old a unit, parts should be easy to get.
Matt & Mary Colie
A sailor, his bride and their black dog going to see some dry places that have Geocaches in a coach made the year we married.
I would sugest you see a tech at a small engine repair shop
They do this kind of work all the time
FWIW
Don
Don & Louise
2000 Coachman Catalina 330 MSB /F53
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2008 Impala- Remco Lube Pump , Blue OX tow bar & Brake Buddy
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Try the Seafoam, open the fuel line and fill the carb with a 50/50 mix of gas and Seafoam and let it sit a day or so. To rebuild the carb is not bad, you may get parts and information from I think Jacks Small Engines.(Goole) I have an old 7KW carb unit I have had the carb off to clean and repair, just have to run those things about every week or so and they are good to go.
How do you know the carb needs cleaning? I have a Kohler 6.7 that sits for years, when it won't start I find it's the fuel pump not running (stuck from the lacquer left behind by the fuel). Most of the time if I just get fresh fuel in the pump it will start working in a few minutes. To make the fuel pump run without starting the generator I remove the wire to the starter. Now when you push the start button you can hear the fuel pump, crack a fuel line at the carb to see if fuel is getting their. Be careful not to let fuel get on the generator or any electronics.
I use STP fuel additive to clean carbs in the black bottle. I mix about 2 bottles to a gallon of gas. If you can't get the engine started try draining the cab and refill it with this mixture. Let it sit for an hour or so drain and then see if it will start. Once you have it running run long enough to know you have the fuel system full of the mixture and then shut it off and let it stand for 30 minutes. Repeat this process until it is running normal then run on clean gas to purge the mixture. I have done this on many engines with grate success.
The only expense is the STP, Fuel, and a little time.
When you spray the cleaner into the carb. will it fire up at all while you are cranking and spraying? If yes and it then dies when you stop spraying I would assume that would mean that there is no gas getting through whether it be the carb. or the fuel pump.
Ken
2004 QDH 40ft Phaeton, Blue Ox Tru-Center
Ham Call N4HWL, TS performance mp-8
Long ago and far away, I was a Kohler Certified Four Stroke Cycle engine mechanic.
(Come to think of it, there is no expiration date on the certificate, so I suppose I still am a Certified Kohler Mechanic!)
Whatever...
Take the generator (in the motorhome, if necessary) to a Kohler certified small engine shop and get the work done RIGHT!
"Chemical overhauls" may work for a while, but they seldom get the job done so it will last. You need to get that carb properly cleaned and adjusted so the generator puts out the proper voltage and cyclic rate (60 Hz). The generator must be running at the proper RPM, or the Hz will be low or high. Neither is good for the electronics in your coach!
Don't take a chance, get it done RIGHT, the FIRST time!
CM1, USN (RET)
2002 Fleetwood Southwind 32V, Ford V10
Toad: 2006 Jeep Rubicon LJ
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