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Open Roads Forum  >  Dinghy Towing

 > Ready Brake Supplemental Braking

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tropical36

Southwest Florida_USA

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Posted: 02/22/12 10:17am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

MARKW8 wrote:

I did my 08 Wrangler. The wall might be single but there is an aluminum heat shield on the outside.

Mark

Yes, I can see that padding you're speaking of from under the hood and am becoming more confident that the firewall is only single wall in the preferred mounting location.


"We are often so caught up in our destination that we forget to appreciate the journey."

1998 36ft. National Tropi-Cal Model 6350 on a 1997 Chevy P32
Chassis_7.4 Vortec Engine_4L80E Tranny_slide_tag axle.

Dinghy_2010 Jeep Wrangler JKU ISLANDER.


tropical36

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Posted: 02/22/12 10:30am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Roadtech wrote:

I have the Readybrake and I tow a 2006 Jeep Liberty behind a 27' Class C. The only problem I have encountered is a considerable amount of side to side swaying of the Liberty when going down the road. I had a guy in a truck pull up beside me while going down the interstate and roll down his window and yell that the Liberty was moving 6 feet side to side (I know he was exaggerating, but it did scare me). When I got home I checked and found the fit was fairly loose between the tow bar and the receiver end on the Readybrake. There also was some looseness on the other end where the Readybrake fits into the motorhome receiver. Since you are adding about 13 inches of length to the combination of the Readybrake and the towbar and two loose fits, you end up with a good bit of play at the Liberty connection. I am going to try installing one (or two) of the Roadmaster "Quiet Hitch" brackets to see if it tightens up the play. I hate to have to do this as it adds another complication to installing the towbar/Readybrake every time.

Gee, I've never heard of this before and assume that the install itself is correct. Where did you have it done and do you attribute any of this to having Roadmaster equipment? Are your tow bars, Roadmaster, also?
How about a shim alongside the insertions into the 2" receivers and would this help? I do that with a hitch haul rack and one even came with the hitch step I use on my F-150.
Right now, I'm getting quotes and want to use a Demco base plate to go with the READY BRUTE/READY BRAKE ELITE COMBO.

Roadtech

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Posted: 02/22/12 12:22pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I am using a Roadmaster Sterling towbar. It was a tight fit when not using the Readybrake (I had a brake-in-a-box before.) I had the Readybrake installed by a Night Shift Auto recommended installer here. Everything else works great. You should not have this problem since your Readybrute towbar and brake are together as one component.

tropical36

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Posted: 02/22/12 02:47pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Roadtech wrote:

I am using a Roadmaster Sterling towbar. It was a tight fit when not using the Readybrake (I had a brake-in-a-box before.) I had the Readybrake installed by a Night Shift Auto recommended installer here. Everything else works great. You should not have this problem since your Readybrute towbar and brake are together as one component.

I was thinking along those lines also and even gave up the idea of purchasing a used Blue Ox tow bar or the like to save a buck.
You may have to consider getting a ready brute for yourself or whatever it takes to get this thing right and safe.

sonicsix

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Posted: 02/23/12 07:22am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We have the Ready Brute Elite tow bar and use it to pull a 1999 Jeep Cherokee. We used a Blue Ox base plate because we liked how you could barely see it once mounted. Installing the Ready Brake cable in the Jeep took about an hour and was actually very easy to do. It took another hour to install the base plate, but we had to remove the front bumper then put it back.

For lights, we bought a pair of stop/turn/tail LED light bars from feeBay (eBay) and mounted them on the roof rack. We ran a 4 conductor wire under the Jeep that sticks out the front grill. When we connect to the motorhome, we hook up the tow bar and plug into the connector at the front of the Jeep. When we hit the brakes on the motorhome, the LED tail lights light up the same. If the ready Brake is activated, then the regular brake lights on the Jeep light up as well.

We also have a round magnetic light that plugs into the connector on the Jeep's receiver. This lights up when the Ready Brake applies the Jeep's brakes, allowing us to see it with the RV's back up camera. This way we know how the Ready Brake is working on the Jeep in conjunction with the little dashboard indicator light inside the motorhome. Here is a pic of the LEDs and the round light. There are quick disconnect plugs at the right side of the roof rack in case I need to take the rack off to clean under it.







tropical36

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Posted: 02/23/12 08:43am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

sonicsix wrote:

We have the Ready Brute Elite tow bar and use it to pull a 1999 Jeep Cherokee. We used a Blue Ox base plate because we liked how you could barely see it once mounted. Installing the Ready Brake cable in the Jeep took about an hour and was actually very easy to do. It took another hour to install the base plate, but we had to remove the front bumper then put it back.

For lights, we bought a pair of stop/turn/tail LED light bars from feeBay (eBay) and mounted them on the roof rack. We ran a 4 conductor wire under the Jeep that sticks out the front grill. When we connect to the motorhome, we hook up the tow bar and plug into the connector at the front of the Jeep. When we hit the brakes on the motorhome, the LED tail lights light up the same. If the ready Brake is activated, then the regular brake lights on the Jeep light up as well.

We also have a round magnetic light that plugs into the connector on the Jeep's receiver. This lights up when the Ready Brake applies the Jeep's brakes, allowing us to see it with the RV's back up camera. This way we know how the Ready Brake is working on the Jeep in conjunction with the little dashboard indicator light inside the motorhome. Here is a pic of the LEDs and the round light. There are quick disconnect plugs at the right side of the roof rack in case I need to take the rack off to clean under it.

Nice setup and sounds like you have it all covered. Hopefully the indicator lights in the coach will tell me if the surge system is working and for brake and running lights, I'm presently inclined to go with the bulb wiring harness, rather than incorporating the use of diodes. Don't know which will be easier to install, but do like the idea of keeping this system completely independent of the Jeep's wiring and at the same time, not changing the appearance of this daily driver. Either way, when I touch the brake pedal or turn on any exterior lights in the coach they should go on with the toad as well.

* This post was edited 02/23/12 09:11am by tropical36 *

MARKW8

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Posted: 02/23/12 11:14am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a 24" hitch extension with the ready brute tow bar. I have no sway at all.

Mark

tropical36

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Posted: 02/23/12 11:57am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

MARKW8 wrote:

I have a 24" hitch extension with the ready brute tow bar. I have no sway at all.

Mark

That sounds promising and now with some more findings, there might be a slight change to my plans here for the electrical components, since getting this from another thread that's going on. Still looking in to it, but it looks very impressive, even with the extra cost involved...Cool Tech
On a second look, the overall cost is actually less.

* This post was edited 02/23/12 12:23pm by tropical36 *

MARKW8

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Posted: 02/23/12 05:55pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

tropical36 wrote:

MARKW8 wrote:

I have a 24" hitch extension with the ready brute tow bar. I have no sway at all.

Mark

That sounds promising and now with some more findings, there might be a slight change to my plans here for the electrical components, since getting this from another thread that's going on. Still looking in to it, but it looks very impressive, even with the extra cost involved...Cool Tech
On a second look, the overall cost is actually less.


On my 08 Jeep offered a harness that plugged into the main harness under the passenger side of the dash. It routed thru the firewall along the frame to the front. It had a second cord to connect to the tow veh. It powered only the rear lights that were needed. It was about $130. I had my steering lock made inoperative so no need to disconnect the battery. Yours shouldn't have a column lock.

Mark

tropical36

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Posted: 02/23/12 07:57pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

MARKW8 wrote:

tropical36 wrote:

MARKW8 wrote:

I have a 24" hitch extension with the ready brute tow bar. I have no sway at all.

Mark

That sounds promising and now with some more findings, there might be a slight change to my plans here for the electrical components, since getting this from another thread that's going on. Still looking in to it, but it looks very impressive, even with the extra cost involved...Cool Tech
On a second look, the overall cost is actually less.


On my 08 Jeep offered a harness that plugged into the main harness under the passenger side of the dash. It routed thru the firewall along the frame to the front. It had a second cord to connect to the tow veh. It powered only the rear lights that were needed. It was about $130. I had my steering lock made inoperative so no need to disconnect the battery. Yours shouldn't have a column lock.

Mark

You're right and no lock on the 2010. I've also heard of the factory cable, but like the sound of the Cool Tech better and it does have better reviews. Having said that, I'm sure they both do the job. CT deluxe also comes with a 7 to 4 pin umbilical cord and a battery disconnect for those who might need it.
Anyway, that's the way I'm thinking now and have already changed my mind more than once, but think I finally have it thrashed out now.
Still waiting to hear back from cool tech by email, as calling only produces a recording for messages and advises emailing.

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