Francesca Knowles

Port Hadlock, Washington

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Joined: 02/23/2011

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Honey wagons with furniture...
" Not every mind that wanders is lost. " With apologies to J.R.R. Tolkien
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univmd

Maryland

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Joined: 03/02/2009

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Campa-Chem works better than the GEO Method for us because we are too lazy to use lots and lots and lots and lots of water.
2008 Gulfstream Tourmaster
2011 Honda CRV
Blue Ox Baseplate & Socket Wiring
Blue Ox Alladin Tow Bar
US Gear Unified Tow Brake
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Waldo5461

Canada

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Joined: 02/25/2012

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Try a product I've been using called "Snow Fresh" it works good for us and is Septic tank safe.
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Joneseyhome

Renton, WA

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Joined: 02/20/2012

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In a related question, when do you put the enzyme stuff in the tank? When the tank is empty, 1/3 full, 3/4 full, right before you dump the tank?
Jonesey
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Francesca Knowles

Port Hadlock, Washington

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Joneseyhome wrote: In a related question, when do you put the enzyme stuff in the tank? When the tank is empty, 1/3 full, 3/4 full, right before you dump the tank?
All the enzymes needed for "digestion" are already in the tank, "put there" by YOU, if you know what I mean.
Digestive process is a naturally occurring one, and as pointed out by others, most black tanks are dumped before the process gets much more than started.
Ironically, formaldehyde-based "deodorizers" actually do more harm than good to this process, since they indiscriminately kill ALL living things including those beneficial/necessary for any digestion to occur.
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Joneseyhome

Renton, WA

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I need a bit more help. We are connected to a sewer system; however, I was told to keep the black water tank valve closed until the tank is 3/4 full, then open it and flush. Am I missing anything?
As you can tell I'm a newbie.
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Francesca Knowles

Port Hadlock, Washington

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Joneseyhome wrote: I need a bit more help. We are connected to a sewer system; however, I was told to keep the black water tank valve closed until the tank is 3/4 full, then open it and flush. Am I missing anything?
As you can tell I'm a newbie.
That's good advice- heed it!
Your tank will drain much more thoroughly if you fill 'er up enough so that when you open the valve to dump, everything is swept out with a big whoosh...
Staying hooked and open often leads to solids building up, since the relatively small amount of water in a single flush of the toilet may not be enough to carry the TP etc. out of the tank.
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Akeru

Oregon

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Here is a link to a great article I have found that helps explain the process and gives pros/cons of some chemicals found in today's market. Hopefully it will further help the conversation.
http://www.rvlifestyleexperts.com/pdfs/RV_HOLDING_TANK_CHEMICALS.pdf
I am curious to what the original poster has done, if anything, to help resolve his problem.
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rockhillmanor

On the Road

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Joined: 12/06/2003

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Joneseyhome wrote: I need a bit more help. We are connected to a sewer system; however, I was told to keep the black water tank valve closed until the tank is 3/4 full, then open it and flush. Am I missing anything? As you can tell I'm a newbie.
Hey don't worry, we've all been new at this game at some point in our camping careers! 
Leave BOTH tank valves closed until almost full. THEN dump them.
Just like the black your gray tank will start accumulating slimy stuff on the bottom of the tank if you leave that valve open all the time.
I think the biggest misconception of new campers is that when in a full hook up site they assume they should just stick their sewer hose down the hole, OPEN both valves and forget about it. Which is the incorrect way to do it.
The convenience of a full hookup site is you can hook up your sewage hose only once and that you just walk out and pull the valves when your tanks are full. Thereby keeping both your tanks working properly.
p.s. don't let grease, fat, or food stuffs go down the kitchen sink either.
"We must be willing to get rid of the life we've planned,
so as to have the life that is waiting for us".
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Bonefish

Midland, TX

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Joined: 01/08/2008

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Clickable link to article.
Good write up for all who are willing to take the time to read!
The understanding of the benefits of beneficial bacteria to safely break down waist was based in part on research for space missions. Helping to break down waist so the liquid portion could be recycled safely was paramount to long term missions.
Bonefish
Akeru wrote: Here is a link to a great article I have found that helps explain the process and gives pros/cons of some chemicals found in today's market. Hopefully it will further help the conversation.
http://www.rvlifestyleexperts.com/pdfs/RV_HOLDING_TANK_CHEMICALS.pdf
I am curious to what the original poster has done, if anything, to help resolve his problem.
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