My two front side windows (the fixed panes on the
drivers and passengers side that you need to look through to use the rear view mirrors got bad enough I couldn't see the mirrors. I decided to try my own fix and see how it worked, I figured I had nothing to lose, if it didn't work then I would have to bite the bullet and pay for suncoast designs or a local glass company to fix/replace them for me.
First off, I am not concerned with having dual pane
windows, we don't use the motorhome in the extreme cold, so the insulating issue is not important to me.
Here is my "cheap", yet effective solution. I simply broke the interior pane. It worked great. I put duct tape over the
entire window. I then used a hammer and a nail punch to break/shatter the glass. I started off with a very light strike with the hammer and continually hit it harder and harder until it finally broke/shattered (it is pretty amazing how hard you have to hit it to break the glass). The glass simply "spidered" the entire pane.
I then poked out a little area of glass (square inch or so) which seams to weaken the entire structure of the pane. After that, you just peel the duct tape off and the majority of the glass shards come off stuck to the tape. After that I used a small screwdriver to dig/pry all the little pieces of broken glass out of the
channel that the pane was in (this was the most time consuming part of the job, it probably took about a half hour per pane). Oh yea, I put a drop cloth below the window that caught the majority of the glass that did not stick to the duck tape.
After completely cleaning everything up, I applied a nice thick bead of silicon caulk/adhesive in the channel where the glass was. The outer pane is very secure without the inner pane (it sits in its own channel).
There was no "etching" on the glass at all. The drivers side window has probably been "fogged" for 3 years now, and the passenger side for about 2 years now. Again, no etching, I just cleaned off the moisture/residue and they are crystal clear.
Sorry, I did not take any pictures, but as you can tell, the procedure was pretty straight forward. A cheap alternative to the current fixes on the market, and you won't ever have to worry about the window fogging again.
Nice. I actually question the virtue of the dual pane insulation anyway...I know it adds, but I'm not sure that going from R2 to R2.1 is all that big of a deal.
Nice post.
Jim
2005 Pace Arrow 36D
Very Understanding Wife
2 Boxers
4 Cats
Lobstah wrote: Nice. I actually question the virtue of the dual pane insulation anyway...I know it adds, but I'm not sure that going from R2 to R2.1 is all that big of a deal.
As far as the usefulness of double paned windows go, many, many owners here on the forum have compared their RVs with and without and the winner is double paned for comfortable AC, heating without too much furnace run time, and less noise from outside.
Kplender,
I'll go one up on you. After some issues with Atwood kind of screwing up an order for replacement of the two same windows as you messed with, I canceled the order and took matters into my own hands. I've got some friends in the Glass business here locally so, I thought I'd do a little experiment.
I removed both windows and took them down to him. I discussed removing the fogged up windows and replacing the glass with "Laminated" glass. He said "no problem". He even had the same thickness and color as the two panes were. I too was not worried about the "insulation" factor. I was told I'd have ultra high heat in the coach during the summer and really cold in the winter. And, I'd have the infamous "sweating" running down the walls because of the non-insulation.
Well, he did a bang up job in measuring, cutting and installing that laminated glass, which was about 3/8 of an inch thick. Both windows were about the same weight with the laminated as the dual pane. And guess what, no high heat in the summer and ultra cold during winter month camping. And we spent lots of time in both. And oh yeah, never did see any "sweating" running down the walls either.
The cost, well that's where you got me beat by a long shot. It cost me around $400.00 for both windows, complete. But, in the end, I too will NEVER see condensation "inside" those windows, EVER AGAIN!!
Now in defence of them, the dual panes that is, I figure the manufacturers know what they're doing in designing them and taking the time to install them and, while they most likely have some good qualities and effects, many of them seem to develop faults. And, it appears that it really doesn't matter who the manufacturer was or is, and or the level of coach. I've read of some pretty expensive coaches having the same problems the lower end ones have in that dual pane situation.
Scott
Scott and Karla SDFD RETIRED
2004 Itasca Horizon, 36GD Slate Blue 330 CAT
2011 White Honda CRV EX-L,4WD w/NAV Toad 2008 Caliente Red LVL II GL 1800 Goldwing KI60ND
Jim@HiTek wrote: Seems like a overreaction to a common problem with several solutions. My solution takes an hour or two: Fogged window repair for the DIY'er.
As far as the usefulness of double paned windows go, many, many owners here on the forum have compared their RVs with and without and the winner is double paned for comfortable AC, heating without too much furnace run time, and less noise from outside.
I agree with them. No offense, JMO.
I agree that dual pane windows are a excellent option, they reduce noise, and insulation goes from about 0.8 to 2.0. So while single pane can develop ice on the inside in 0F weather, dual pane windows will not until it is much colder, unless the inside temperature is below 40, then ice might form on anything.
Yet camping at 55F overnight temperatures you will barely notice the difference, except for it will be a little noisier. Yes the single pane will collect moisture or ice a little sooner than the triply ply windshield. It actually has a plastic center and two layers of glass, so it stays in one piece during a collision. So windshield glass might have a R value of 1.5, depending on it's manufacture.
Jim@HiTek wrote: Seems like a overreaction to a common problem with several solutions. My solution takes an hour or two: Fogged window repair for the DIY'er.
As far as the usefulness of double paned windows go, many, many owners here on the forum have compared their RVs with and without and the winner is double paned for comfortable AC, heating without too much furnace run time, and less noise from outside.
I agree with them. No offense, JMO.
Disagree, true dual pane windows with any r value are sealed tight. And filled with an inert gas, such as argon. Having two thin layers of glass with "air" in between does nothing for insulation, sound deadening, ect. Moisture forms due to temp differences. Argon is an insulating gas. Air not. Sorry but submit your coach to the right circumstances and you will have fogging with your repair.
Jim@HiTek wrote: Seems like a overreaction to a common problem with several solutions. My solution takes an hour or two: Fogged window repair for the DIY'er.
As far as the usefulness of double paned windows go, many, many owners here on the forum have compared their RVs with and without and the winner is double paned for comfortable AC, heating without too much furnace run time, and less noise from outside.
I agree with them. No offense, JMO.
Jim
how well have your windows held up?
1999 Bounder 32H
F-53 V-10
Towing 2000 CRV, Falcon tow bar, Brake Buddy
It gets terrible mileage for a car, but gets great mileage for a house!
Jim@HiTek wrote: Seems like a overreaction to a common problem with several solutions. My solution takes an hour or two: Fogged window repair for the DIY'er.
As far as the usefulness of double paned windows go, many, many owners here on the forum have compared their RVs with and without and the winner is double paned for comfortable AC, heating without too much furnace run time, and less noise from outside.
I agree with them. No offense, JMO.
Disagree, true dual pane windows with any r value are sealed tight. And filled with an inert gas, such as argon. Having two thin layers of glass with "air" in between does nothing for insulation, sound deadening, ect. Moisture forms due to temp differences. Argon is an insulating gas. Air not. Sorry but submit your coach to the right
circumstances and you will have fogging with your repair.
08 FW Providence 40X
FL-XCS chassis
46"LED,Blu-ray 5.1
Ready Brute tow bar/braking/break away system & wireless light bar
'11 Ford Edge AWD toad
2 Honda 2000s for 30 amp dry camp
&300 watts of solar
Beware of those who point their finger the LOUDEST !
Jim@HiTek wrote: Seems like a overreaction to a common problem with several solutions. My solution takes an hour or two: Fogged window repair for the DIY'er.
As far as the usefulness of double paned windows go, many, many owners here on the forum have compared their RVs with and without and the winner is double paned for comfortable AC, heating without too much furnace run time, and less noise from outside.
I agree with them. No offense, JMO.
An hour or 2, for the FIXED panes, on 2 different windows? Sorry, but I struggle believing that might be done in that time allotment - or even close.
I haven't done it yet, but I am facing that possibility, and considering my options. Same scenario as described by the OP. With the window R&R, the glass R&R from the window, drilling the holes, cleaning and drying glass interior space, as well as all of the surface prep/cleanup and resealing required, I'm betting the average do it yourselfer is going to be closer to a day - per window?
Too, when looking at an entire coach, loosing whatever insulation value the thermo-pane offers on these 2 windows alone isn't very likely going to be noticed by many. I think manf's would do their customer base well from a safety standpoint by eliminating thermo-pane glass from the area discussed - or ELIMINATE the potential for fogging there (which doesn't sound very likely).
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