hmknightnc wrote: Converters don't deal with power surges very well. If your power cycled (surged 8 times) like you indicated then 12 volt systems started giving you trouble I be looking to test out the converter. I've fried a couple that way over the last 10 years. As someone else said check for approximately 13.5 volts up to 14.4 volts DC out of the converter. If you don't have it start looking to replace.
OK now to display how totally clueless I am about checking voltage at the converter. I've tried to find a 'how to' site online to describe or display (pictures for dummies) just how to go about this.
Follow step #5 of your previous post to check the converter output. Place the neg. or black lead of the multimeter to ground (like a piece of steel connected to the frame of your RV) or just to the neg. connection of the converter itself. The connections of the converters that I have seen are clearly marked. I was also wondering, were the appliances you are having trouble with plugged in or in use during the electrical surges? Did the elecrician check those appliances and the outlets they were plugged in to?
Miles
Miles and Darcey
1989 Holiday Rambler Crown Imperial
Denver, CO
Son of Norway wrote: Follow step #5 of your previous post to check the converter output. Place the neg. or black lead of the multimeter to ground (like a piece of steel connected to the frame of your RV) or just to the neg. connection of the converter itself. The connections of the converters that I have seen are clearly marked. I was also wondering, were the appliances you are having trouble with plugged in or in use during the electrical surges? Did the elecrician check those appliances and the outlets they were plugged in to?
Miles
"clearly marked" on the front of the unit inside the RV or when unit is removed? I was told by another they would be where it was plugged in. I'm sorry to keep questioning this, but many here are experienced with RVs and doing their own work and those of us who aren't, can find dealing with such issues (especially electrical) rather daunting.
When the power outage occured the second time, all unplug'able appliances were unplugged until electricity was restored and multiple inside surge protectors are in place. All work fine as I said until evening arrives, thus the battery theory suggested makes the most sense.
In fact, this evening even with space heater on, no problem..go figure.
...
Things were fine and about a week later, lost all power (we are in a rural area, so not uncommon...then followed by about 8 surges of electricity,
....
If you do not have a surge protector, hardwired or on the pedestal, then you may want to add one of these to your shopping list: Surge Guard 30-AMP
They obsoleted the old unit and replaced it with one that has an LCD status display (it's more expensive now). The older version of the Surge Guard units may still be found in the stores (for less money).
I've been to parks that have included a note in their welcome packet that basically says "We have garbage for power. If you don't have surge protection for your RV then it's all on you."
I'd rather fry my Surge Guard at the pedestal and have it take the hit instead of my MH. It's a lot less expensive to replace.
2005 Cruise America 28R (Four Winds 28R) on a 2004 Ford E450 SD 6.8L V10 4R100
2009 smart fortwo Passion with Roadmaster "Falcon 2" towbar & tail light kit - pictures
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Things were fine and about a week later, lost all power (we are in a rural area, so not uncommon...then followed by about 8 surges of electricity,
....
If you do not have a surge protector, hardwired or on the pedestal, then you may want to add one of these to your shopping list: Surge Guard 30-AMP
They obsoleted the old unit and replaced it with one that has an LCD status display (it's more expensive now). The older version of the Surge Guard units may still be found in the stores (for less money).
I've been to parks that have included a note in their welcome packet that basically says "We have garbage for power. If you don't have surge protection for your RV then it's all on you."
I'd rather fry my Surge Guard at the pedestal and have it take the hit instead of my MH. It's a lot less expensive to replace.
Totally agree. It's just I've been hit with costs and an unscruplous
RV repair service, which overcharged, did shoddy work and then the out of pocket costs for the electrical components for the aforementioned work and like many nowdays, I'm on a very tight budget.
I am shopping around for surge protectors. (I just held off after the last bout, thinking the electrical problems were fixed and the cost of new batteries etc.) Again you are spot on with the need for a surge protector. May I as a question? The surge protector plugs into the power box outside and the power cord from my RV plugs into that which puts it outside the protection of the box and I'm in a foggy, rainy area. How do I protect that connection? (RV plug to S.P.)
Silly question, maybe, but... The original "clunking" sound in the fridge - Ours was making a similar noise, it was our icemaker - it was frozen up and jammed. When the motor tries to move the ice and it's jammed, it could use a lot of amps. Just a thought.
Bluegypsy (that's the RV's name)
Map shows where we've lived and worked, travelling through doesn't count....
bluegypsy wrote: Silly question, maybe, but... The original "clunking" sound in the fridge - Ours was making a similar noise, it was our icemaker - it was frozen up and jammed. When the motor tries to move the ice and it's jammed, it could use a lot of amps. Just a thought.
No. My rig doesn't have such fancy things. Besides I doubt it would impact all the other appliances in the manner of what is described as happening.
No such thing as a silly question. Thanks for the input.
I guess perhaps posting what kind of rig I have might be of 'some' help.
Cougar 310SRX 2007 (bought new in '08) side ramp..guess one might say it is a cross between a residental and toybox.
Son of Norway wrote: Follow step #5 of your previous post to check the converter output. Place the neg. or black lead of the multimeter to ground (like a piece of steel connected to the frame of your RV) or just to the neg. connection of the converter itself. The connections of the converters that I have seen are clearly marked. I was also wondering, were the appliances you are having trouble with plugged in or in use during the electrical surges? Did the elecrician check those appliances and the outlets they were plugged in to?
Miles
"clearly marked" on the front of the unit inside the RV or when unit is removed? I was told by another they would be where it was plugged in. I'm sorry to keep questioning this, but many here are experienced with RVs and doing their own work and those of us who aren't, can find dealing with such issues (especially electrical) rather daunting.
When the power outage occured the second time, all unplug'able appliances were unplugged until electricity was restored and multiple inside surge protectors are in place. All work fine as I said until evening arrives, thus the battery theory suggested makes the most sense.
In fact, this evening even with space heater on, no problem..go figure.
Thanks for your infinite patience!
OK......HERE is a link to the only manual I could find.
Page 7 describes testing converter.......the positive & negative cables from battery should be disconnected from converter prior to testing converter output (so voltage measured is from converter and not from battery too).
I think the first power outage when you found all wires at receptacle burnt was the start of your problems......that and the subsequent power outage/surges. RV stuff doesn't play well........good luck!
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