RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Tech Issues: attwood water heater

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Help and Support  |  Contact

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Tech Issues

Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > attwood water heater

This Topic Is Closed  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 2  
Next
Sponsored By:
boatms03

Groves, Tx

Full Member

Joined: 04/05/2010

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 02/21/12 05:12pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have an attwood water heater model GC6AA-10E. my question is when i turn on the gas switch inside the heater lights, and then goes back out. a few seconds later it will light again, and then go back out. it will do this three times then a little red light comes on next to the switch inside. I can turn the switch off then back on and the heater will usually light and stay on to heat the water in the tank. once it shuts off it will not relight on its own. what could be wrong?


2009 Dodge Ram 2500 diesel
2007 Jayco Octane T26Y
2011 Polaris RZR S

Ka Ron

Kelowna

Senior Member

Joined: 12/31/2009

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 02/21/12 05:26pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had same problem and it was the circuit board.


Join Us For A Trip Down The RV Highway


Old-Biscuit

Verde Valley

Senior Member

Joined: 06/20/2009

View Profile



Posted: 02/21/12 06:15pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The following is a list from Atwood......Lock-out conditions (red light)

Low voltage---------Correct power supply - 10.5 VDC minimum
Poor electrical ground----------Secure electrical ground
Electrodes out of flame pattern ------Re-adjust electrodes
Electrodes sparking to screw fastening burner to flue tube-----Adjust electrodes away from screw
Dirty electrodes ----------Clean electrodes
Partial obstruction in main burner ---------Clean main burner
Partially obstructed main burner orifice----Clean main burner orifice or replace
Improper air adjustment --------Adjust main burner air shutter approximately 1/4 open
Flame spreader on main burner out of adjustment ----------Adjust flame spreader so that it is square to the end of burner tube
Manifold not aligned with main burner ----------Re-align solenoid valve with main burner
Partially opening solenoid valve -------Replace solenoid valve
Defective circuit board-------------Replace circuit board

Cheap fixes first......
Good ground
Clean burner tube
Clean burner orifice
Clean thermocouple....spark probe (1/8" gap between spark & ground rod)
Clean the connection for edge connector on circuit board....eraser
Check voltage to gas valve (10.5V DC to 13.5V DC with another 12V appliance on)

boatms03

Groves, Tx

Full Member

Joined: 04/05/2010

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 02/21/12 06:24pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

thanks old-biscuit, I was going to do some additional checking before I bought a circuit board. I acts like a bad thermal couple on a home water heater or furnace. I pulled the igniter and cleaned the electrodes. When it does light it has a good blue flame, no yellow or white in it.

Alpenliter

Fulltimer: Wherever we are!

Senior Member

Joined: 04/10/2005

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 02/21/12 11:24pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Had the same problem on mine and it was a bad solenoid valve. Only problem is you can't buy just the solenoid, they want you to buy a whole new gas valve.


My first Wife Linda, 45+years 2004 F-450 CC, DRW 6.0 Classy Chassis Upgrade Bulletproof Diesel upgrades 1997 33' Alpenlite 400 Watts Solar Lifetime Good Sam Member #39644174 Escapees SKP#89882 Vietnam Vet '67-'68 [

Note: Due to invalid formatting, all formatting has been ignored.


boatms03

Groves, Tx

Full Member

Joined: 04/05/2010

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 02/22/12 04:58pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

is there a way to test the solenoid valve?

Kirk

Livingston, Texas.

Senior Member

Joined: 06/17/2001

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 02/22/12 07:37pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Quote:

is there a way to test the solenoid valve?

About the only way is to monitor the voltage to the valve while you do this. If the gas flame stops and there is still voltage to the valve, then the valve is closing again. It is also possible for the solenoid to come loose. You can check that by removing the valve from the system and then just supply it with 12V power to open and monitor if you can put compressed air through it over a period of time.

I would be very slow to change the circuit board without some trouble shooting that points to it. A more likely cause is the spark probe which is also what monitors the sensing of the flame. If it is failing it will tell the circuit board to turn off the gas and the gas valve will loose 12V power. They are easy to replace and cost about $30.

Before you start to just through parts at it as some suggest, go to Bryant RV and down load a copy of the service manual. With that and a good meter you should be able to narrow things down.


Good travelin! ........Kirk
Professional Volunteer
Fulltimer for 11 years,
URL: www.adventure.1tree.net


Ka Ron

Kelowna

Senior Member

Joined: 12/31/2009

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 02/22/12 10:05pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

boatms03 wrote:

is there a way to test the solenoid valve?


The most miss diagnosed thing with a gas appliance is the gas valve.

Yes, they do go, but the symptoms you have is not the gas valve.

Save yourself a lot of time, replace the circuit board.

An old retired Gas fitter....

John&Joey

Some Location

Senior Member

Joined: 05/20/2007

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 02/23/12 07:01am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Kirk wrote:

...I would be very slow to change the circuit board without some trouble shooting that points to it. A more likely cause is the spark probe which is also what monitors the sensing of the flame. If it is failing it will tell the circuit board to turn off the gas and the gas valve will loose 12V power. They are easy to replace and cost about $30.

Before you start to just through parts at it as some suggest, go to Bryant RV and down load a copy of the service manual. With that and a good meter you should be able to narrow things down.


Kirk is spot on.

The board will either work or not. It's usually not something that is so hit or miss. Download the manual and do the trouble shooting. It may be something so simple as a dirty connection, or a bad ground.

Sometimes replacing a board will make it all better when in reality it was the connection on the board. The new board will have nice new clean connections making the buyer think that the old problem was the board.

RJsfishin

Winston Or.

Senior Member

Joined: 10/16/2007

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 02/23/12 07:12am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My board WAS a hit and miss, long after thoroughly cleaning every connection.
And it seemed ambient temp changed the hit and miss also.


Rich

'01 31 ft Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 200 watts Solar, 400 watt inv, 2 12v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KingDome/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters, and towing a Liberty, or a Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.


This Topic Is Closed  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 2  
Next

Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > attwood water heater
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Tech Issues


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2014 RV.Net | Terms & Conditions | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS