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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

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JIMNLIN

Oklahoma

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Posted: 02/22/12 06:31am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Some folks make outrageous claims about Dicor as we see above. They have no idea if its Dicor or not. Yet when the trailer manufacture is contacted its not Dicor on the roof as there are several simular products the trailer mfg uses on the assy line.
My current '97 5er came with a self leveling sealent that didn't need anything done till '05 when a few hair line cracks about 3" long started showing up. The unit never leaked so I simply added a bit of Dicor over those spots careful to not make a lake effect. I do a visual twice a year on the sealent/roof fixtures and jacks and the membrane.

Eternabond is great stuff when properly used but is not a permenant apply it and forget it fix. The owner still needs to check all parts of the roof once or twice a year

Before adding eternabond on the roof that doesn't leak I would contact the trailers manufacturer or your RV dealer first and see if adding this type of product can void the trailer roof warranty as one poster found out.
This from one poster after eternaboding his brand new trailers roof;

"A while back, I opened a thread asking whether eterna-bonding the roof seams on an almost-new TT as a preventative measure was a good idea ...the virtually unanimous opinion was 'yes'....


Well, took the TT to the selling dealer today for some minor work...rep. sees the tape job, asks 'why on earth did you DO that'?, and tells me that: a.) it's not necessary b.) it'll trap water if any water ever gets beneath the tape, and c.) any claim under the roof warranty may get kicked on grounds that the roof has been 'modified'....

thought i did the right thing by sealing the seams, but now not so sure.... "


"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers

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John&Joey

Some Location

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Posted: 02/22/12 06:55am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The other thing to remember is some rigs are very cheaply made. They flex a lot going down the road. ET may be the only answer for those owners. Dicor can not fix a bad design.

One more reason I'm always leary of a rig that has a lot of ET on it. Hard to tell if the owner "had to do it" to fix a reoccurring problem.

LarryJM

NoVa

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Posted: 02/22/12 09:05am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

John&Joey wrote:

oldbeek wrote:

Why does DICOR need to be touched up each year? Have hears this befor. Is it not the same as EDPM 2 part coating?


No Dicor is a caulk not a coating. Doing it every year is a myth, it will start to show it's age somewhere between 5-10 years after applying (depending on where you are in the country.) The yearly part comes from just being pro-active and checking the roof at least once a year.

ET is good, Dicor is good. ET is overkill (when no leaks) and is very ugly to my eye. That's the only reason I don't like it. Everytime I see a rig with it I think the owner must have had a leak somewhere, and is now covering up internal damage. To be found by the next owner who bought the rig. IMHO, using lots of ET decreases the resale value.


Believe what you wish, but your 5 to 10 years is the myth. My trailer was built in June 2006 and below is just two pics of what the Dicor looked like in Oct 2007 (thats 16 months)





Larry


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RAINKAP INSTALL////ETERNABOND INSTALL


smkettner

Southern California

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Posted: 02/22/12 09:37am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have only touched up the original caulk. The Dicor I have put on has never had any sign of cracking or needed an additional layer. I assume the oem caulk is not Dicor brand.

I do read posts of people having trouble with EB so I am not certain that is a 100% forever fix either.


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Nomadac

Columbus, IN

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Posted: 02/22/12 10:00am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I did all of the seams on my roof two years ago, as I got tired of trying to use Dicor to repair small cracks as pictured above, that just continued in other areas. I inspect my roof every time I wash it to make sure there are no problems.
I am very satisfied and would recommend it to anyone.


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mapguy

Puget Sound

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Posted: 02/22/12 11:26am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Dicor caulk seems to last ok where it is not subjected to repeated elogation/stretch cycles. These places Dicor last for 5 + years typically.

Places like roof membrane to front/rear caps -Dicor seemed to crack in a month or two IME on multiple RV's. Cracks not adhesion problems! Cracks are from the caulk being subjected to stretch/elongation beyond its recovery capabilities. For my climate -Seattle/PNW -Dicor only sealant on the roof meant roof top checks / touch ups every month or two to prevent any chance of water intrusion. Not an acceptable maintenance schedule.....Why do you think EPDM/TPO roof warranties for RV's specify 3-4 roof inspections yearly to maintain coverage. They (OEM)know the caulk limitations and word the warranty to match. Most RV owers learn about this roof situation the hard way....I have moved to Eternabond for these high stress roofing areas and have effectively reduced maintenace needs of my roof.

I have also moved beyond Dicor to 3M 4000UV Bonding Sealant for roof and sidewall sealant. It is not as easy to use as Dicor but holds up better -more of a once and done product than Dicor.

samert

Rockford, MI

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Posted: 02/26/12 03:14pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Use Eternabond tape and it will be the last time you need to worry about it.

Here's some photos of my roof seams after removing the built up Dicor caulk and applying the Eternabond tape.

Roof to front cap joint:
Old caulking removed and joint strip screws countersunk flush.


Same joint with Eternabond tape applied.


View from side


Roof to rear cap joint:


Curb side roof to sidewall:



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Alpenliter

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Posted: 02/26/12 03:35pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Nice job Steve! Looks better than the gobs of caulking I've seen come off the assembly lines.


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John&Joey

Some Location

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Posted: 02/23/12 06:47am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I think the last few posts and pictures prove a point. If you have a rig that is twisting as it is going down the road (like someone ringing out a towel) then a simple chaulk is not going to fix the issue of a twisting rig.

ET is really nothing more then a rubber patch. Much like putting a patch on an inner tube tire. It will twist and not break like a slightly rigid chaulk would.

The only real question is, is Dicor the problem, or is the rig the problem? To the owner it doesn't matter, they just want to fix the problem and make the leak go away. To the next owner???? For some of us it sends up red flags when we're looking at buying that next used rig.

Maybe the ultimate answer for the OP is to use ET if his newer rig can't handle Dicor as the long term sealing solution. Inspect your seams like the manufacturer states and be proactive with ET if Dicor can't handle the amount of that rigs twisting motion.

Some rigs twist much more then others based on the materials used and the building style. 2x2 framing using staples will twist much more with age then aluminum framing that is welding on 2+ sides.

LarryJM

NoVa

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Posted: 02/22/12 11:44am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mapguy wrote:



I have also moved beyond Dicor to 3M 4000UV Bonding Sealant for roof and sidewall sealant. It is not as easy to use as Dicor but holds up better -more of a once and done product than Dicor.


About 3 years ago I removed all the silicone caulking around the windows/doors, etc. and also used the 3M 4000UV Marine sealant and it looks as good now as when I first put it on.

Larry

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