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Open Roads Forum  >  Class B - Camping Van Conversions

 > Standed in Class B Update- Now with video, any ideas?

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Joined: 02/06/2012

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Posted: 03/18/12 06:46am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

landyacht318 wrote:

I have been in touch with the OP.

The problem was the fuel pump. The new one installed in Tenessee was either defective or not installed correctly, but a second new pump installed in NM fixed the issue.




The chance of a brand new (or reman) fuel pump that is defective out of the box is low.



Furthermore, the pump worked right out of the box:



tylerdurdeno9 wrote:

So the problem has shown up again. Beforehand when the stalling happened I was able to put the van in neutral, restart the engine, and continue on for a while. Now, this lasts a very short time, especially if I hit a hill or wind resistance.


I think I have it narrowed down to something with the coil/distributor. Do you guys agree?




The symptoms point directly at insufficient volume and pressure.


That would have been revealed on a proper volume / pressure test measured at the engine compartment (near engine) to isolate the fault down to whether it is pump, filter, OR LINES KINKED / BLOCKED.


If pressure is fine at that point, then blockages can be further forward (carburetor, EFI, etc.).


Since this test was not done ---- and instead --- pump was replaced without knowing what fault it had.


Next problem --- could it be that another pump (brand new or reman, presumably) failed?

Not likely?

Could it be that it would have performed more badly and still met spec?

Not likely?


Then a 3rd pump was installed, and it worked.



-------------------

Diagnosis of probable cause:


Probable cause is there was nothing wrong with pump #1, #2, and #3.

The fact that the replacement pump --- being newer and presumably stronger, worked poorly than pump #1 is the clue.

Lets have a look at the vehicle again:

1990 Dodge Xplorer

1990 Dodge 1990 --- OVER 20 years old


Most probable cause at this point is:


- a wiring fault / corrosion / intermittent contact (common in vehicles that age),


- followed by clogged filter screen, debris in tank, clogged piping.

This is common in old cars that are suddenly exposed to the use of a modern gasoline loaded with ethanol, which mobilizes water based debris.



Since the OP did not perform the diagnosis as per Dodge / Chrysler recommended procedures, nor are the "bad" pumps available for failure analysis, it is impossible at this point to say much more.


But it is possible to conclude that:


- An issue with corrosion in contacts / pump wiring (or if the pump is immersed in gasoline for cooling, is that the problem could be fixed by simply connecting and disconnecting the connector a few times.

Corrosion is scraped off --- and since the root problem (corroded contacts) is not fixed --- it will return in due course ---- with exactly the same symptoms.


- If the issue is debris in the tank --- that would have / should have been cleared if they cleaned the tank properly.

If not, it will return.

If debris and tank rust is suspected --- the standard procedure is to replace the tank upon examination of the insides revealing severe corrosion.

Since we have no information on that, it cannot be assumed it was done properly.



If the problem was in fact bad electrical contact --- it could have been resolved by a trick for old cars --- cutting a hole in the floor carefully to allow access to the tank top, and replacing the bad cabling / cleaning contacts / or even replacing the entire fuel pump without removing the tank.



Then there is the issue of participants who are all too willing to lead the OP down the garden path:


antiquedrose wrote:

Ignore the 'do it my way or die! die! die!' crowd.

Keep coming with the questions and comments on this or any topic of your choosing, as others may learn something from the constructively worded advise offered up.



Which cost the OP, in this instance, at least 2 almost certainly unnecessary removals of the fuel tank and installation of TWO fuel pumps to probably replace a pump that had nothing wrong with it --- except needing a bit of a cleaning of the electrical wiring.



So as not to mislead future readers who might find this thread, this detailed diagnostics (based on available facts) show that this "fix" that seem to have worked, was incidental to the most probable cause:


landyacht318 wrote:

I have been in touch with the OP.

The problem was the fuel pump. The new one installed in Tenessee was either defective or not installed correctly, but a second new pump installed in NM fixed the issue.


But did they clean the contacts... fix the probable bad wiring... inspect the tank for debris.. ethanol damage?

Handbasket

Asheville, NC

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Joined: 01/17/2003

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Posted: 03/18/12 01:47pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hmmm... a several-screens-long long "I told you so! I was right! Yay, MEEEE!!!" wrant. Most people here have more grace and tact. Into the kill file he goes. Ker-plunk!

Jim, "No news... is good news."


'06 Tiger CX 'C Minus' on a Silverado 2500HD 4x4, 8.1 & Allison (aka 'Loafer's Glory') www.tigervehicles.com

My Roadtrek

Tucson, AZ.

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Joined: 03/20/2002

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Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 03/18/12 02:43pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yes Jim, have to agree, this News has gotten really old a long time ago. Now where did I put that Block button.



* This post was edited 03/18/12 08:27pm by My Roadtrek *

PSW

Oklahoma City

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Joined: 10/21/2002

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Offline
Posted: 03/19/12 05:18am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

First time for me to do this, but I just joined Jim and Roger.


PSW
2007 Roadtrek 210 Popular

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