dbrojr wrote: the reason i'm looking at agm is i want to put the battery safely inside the tc in a lower storage compartment with little venting.
Unfortunately, another point of controversy, "battery safely inside the tc", with no venting. This is one of those things that in my opinion is usually considered a no-no, due to some if not all AGM manufactures say not to install in a sealed room. Lifeline says Hydrogen Gas Emissions are negligible unless severely overcharged.
Personally, I have no concern with my AGM being in my TC. It is not in a sealed room or container. I really question it could be severely overcharged while I am in the TC especially. I do have a battery heat monitor for my solar charger.
I have my AGM mounted inside my TC, and have had for seven years. I have done no maintenance of any kind on the AGM. Each of us will have to decide if we think it is safe to install our batteries as I have installed mine.
Atchafalaya_man wrote: Most batteries last about 4 years, PERIOD! Use that as a life expectancy figure. Oh, you're going to hear about the one that lasts FOREVER, but that's the exception rather than the rule. Think 4 years.
So, buy an inexpensive lead-acid battery of about 80 to 100 amp hours for about 70 dollar, and you'll have power to spare for about 4 years. Keep water in it, and take care of it.
When it SUDDENLY goes bad after 4 years, spend another 70, and you'll be at full power once again for 4 more years.
If lead-acid wasn't the work-horse that it is, every application out there would come with the the latest-greatest type of battery.
This has been my experience also . Since lead/acid batteries are 1/3 the cost of AGM's the AGM's would have to last 12 years to be equal money . The lead/acid gives you 3 chances for warranty replacement ,year 1 , year 5 and year 9 . AGM's give you years 1 and 2 of 12 = more risk. I am not for a moment saying that an AGM isn't a better battery , I just don't see the economics , especially for a weekender . Venting can be a concern but in actuality all battery compartments should be vented , too many things can go wrong in the real world.
Gassing has to do with voltage far more than with amperage. 3 amps per 100 amp-hours of capacity at 15.4 volts is often more than enough for summer time temperatures. Why 15.4? Because above that the computer "boards" in an RV may fry.
full_mosey wrote:
Reddog1 wrote: "Conditioning/Equalizing Charge: 15.5 volts for 8 hours"
Wayne
I am puzzled by the Lifeline specs. At what Amps? Wouldn't the Amps need to be low enough to avoid gassing, or at least not to the point of exceeding the valve pressure?
Also, isn't 14.4V enough to equalize cell voltages for AGM and flooded types?
thanks for all the replies and advise...I think I'm gonna look at putting the battery in the truck bed and go w/ liquid acid battery for now.Maybe later will get an agm.Costs are my deciding factor at this time...Until I either get my disability or docs figure out how to fix me and allow me back to work,funds are kinda tight..
Atchafalaya_man wrote: Most batteries last about 4 years, PERIOD! Use that as a life expectancy figure. Oh, you're going to hear about the one that lasts FOREVER, but that's the exception rather than the rule. Think 4 years.
I am not sure Most batteries last about 4 years. It is my belief most last less, due to the lack of maintenance. That is my experience.
Atchafalaya_man wrote: So, buy an inexpensive lead-acid battery of about 80 to 100 amp hours for about 70 dollar, and you'll have power to spare for about 4 years. Keep water in it, and take care of it.
For me, the trick is my failure "Keep water in it, and take care of it". Too much hassle and drama, especially if you do not use it for long periods of time. My hobby is the use of my TC, not maintaining it's battery. That is my personal experience, realizing it is not true for everyone.
Atchafalaya_man wrote: When it SUDDENLY goes bad after 4 years, spend another 70, and you'll be at full power once again for 4 more years.
If you make four years. Possible, but in my opinion not probable.
Atchafalaya_man wrote: If lead-acid wasn't the work-horse that it is, every application out there would come with the the latest-greatest type of battery.
You have to go with what will work for you, and compromise where you must. I have put my flooded wet cell batteries in the wheel well. With my set-up, it was difficult for me to the water level in the batteries. I also suggest you put them in battery boxes, or be prepared to have battery acid in the bed of your truck. Were it not for the difficulty of battery maintenance, it was not all bad. There are positives with the flooded wet cell batteries in the wheel well.
Gassing has to do with voltage far more than with amperage. 3 amps per 100 amp-hours of capacity at 15.4 volts is often more than enough for summer time temperatures. Why 15.4? Because above that the computer "boards" in an RV may fry.
Thanks, PT. To be safe, with my solar controllers, I'll just stick with my 14.4V for bulk and absorption charging stages and 13.2-13.6V range for float on my AGM. I don't see any reason for higher Voltages.
These are safe voltages for the batteries and the electronics. I don't want to let the magic smoke out of either!
OP
If I missed it in reading the thread, I apologize in advance. Is there any chance that because of the smaller case size, you could eventually multiply the # of batteries? AGM Is a great idea for the in camper install, as you can install them in any position and don't need venting.
Sounds like you are inventing/building the new battery space Four of those small units could be a positive. Or two small AGMS in camper and an old lead acid under the Hood?
Certainly on a limited expense account, the lead acid is most cost effective. And on that note. Why not use/make a sealed battery box and vent it to the outside by siliconing a 1/4" fuel line hose (or similar) into the box. Nothing says it has to say "battery box' on it. It just needs to be air tight and then vented to exterior. Soooo, one under the Hood and One or more in the camper? Just thinking Inside the box.
Hoppe
2011 Dodge 1500 C'boy Caddy
2000 Jayco C 28' Ford chassis w V-10 E450
Doghouse 36' or so Trophy Classic TT
My ''C'' MH only had room for one, the Previous Owner bought a plastic battery box, vented it as described above and bolted it into an internal storage compartment. PITA to add water, but it works, can run furnace in cold weather for one night without discharging completely.
Atchafalaya_man wrote: Most batteries last about 4 years, PERIOD! Use that as a life expectancy figure. Oh, you're going to hear about the one that lasts FOREVER, but that's the exception rather than the rule. Think 4 years.
So, buy an inexpensive lead-acid battery of about 80 to 100 amp hours for about 70 dollar, and you'll have power to spare for about 4 years. Keep water in it, and take care of it.
When it SUDDENLY goes bad after 4 years, spend another 70, and you'll be at full power once again for 4 more years.
If lead-acid wasn't the work-horse that it is, every application out there would come with the the latest-greatest type of battery.
Four years is about right in my experiance however you do find one now and then that goes longer. I have a group 31 in my TC that is going strong at 7 years. It is a Trojan and cost more than the average wet cell.
'01 Dodge 3500 CTD, Lance 1121, Air Bags, Rancho 9000, All Wheels Under Power When Needed, A Few Engine Mods For Increased HP
Burning Grease, 800 ft/lbs. of torque from something you throw away.
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