sdagro
Independence,LA
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Joined: 01/21/2006
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If I do all these mods and recheck the neutral buss as spoken earlier, is there anything else I can do. Like said earlier--when it is a sporadic problem it may take a while before I know if it is fixed. SCARY. Anybody want to buy a 39ft BIGHORN??
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enblethen
Moses Lake, WA
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Joined: 01/05/2005
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Have you got a volt/ohm meter?
You should be able to do some testing prior to throwing money.
I would start by opening junction box on the cable reel. Measure from the cord body to each of the wires in the junction box. They all the #6 wires should read the same. I would undo the splices before testing. This should sow whether the slip rings are making good contact.
The splices are often made with wire nuts. Improperly sized wire nuts can leve the splices loose. I am thinking they should have blue wire nuts.
Some slip rings have "brushes" that can be replaced. Looked at Progressive Dynamics website. They didn't or at least I didn't see a parts breakdown. Some slip rings with "fingers" need to cleaned and lubed with electrical grease. Look at the contact points for burnt areas.
If the cable tests good perform the same test between the inside panel and the splice location. This will test to see if transfer switch has problem.
Bud
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MrWizard
Traveling
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you can do away with the transfer switch IF you do not have or use a built in generator
IF you have a built in generator you must have some kind of power isolation ...
automatic switch, manual switch, or female rv receptacle wired to generator to attach shore cord too
Options, always have options, and the journey goes much smoother
....
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sdagro
Independence,LA
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Have to get it put back together and see who if anyone is going to pay for the attempt to fix so far. extended warranty was denied and waiting on insurance adjuster to let me know something. EW probably would have covered but dealer told them there was moisture, probably wind blown rain in the converter. Now how in the hell can windblown rain--that we didn't even have, get all the way behind the wall of the basement inside the converter box, and not get anything else around it wet? Call Progressive Dynamics and they told me that if the capacitors were blown that they contain a thin oily substance and the cause to blow would be "input surge". May have to battle dealership on that one. That is the main stumbling block in getting the entire issue resolved. Thanks all for listening and offering solutions. Steve
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MPD56
Canada
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Joined: 12/30/2007
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Sorry to hear. Seems that they all can say is what did the damage, but can't prove it. It is just wrong!!!
Like I posted earlier, I'd connect the RV to a 30 Amp Adapter till I was sure that the problem was repaired, this way your equipment wouldn't get 240 volts. Where I work, we have test equipment to monitor and find these kinds of problems. Even without this test equipment, there are ways to find and confirm the problem without just by passing it. Troubleshooting over the internet is hard sometimes.
The company that makes your ATS has a few models and I can only assume that yours has two 3 pole relays, which I wouldn’t think that it could cause your problem without you noticing other things. If you have the model with two 2 pole relays, one of those relays is for the neutral and could cause your problem.
If your power reel is made by Shoreline, Then you could call their customer service and ask how to troubleshoot.
Hope this helps….Good Luck and let us know how you made out.
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sdagro
Independence,LA
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OK guys, I know this is a drastic approach, but if I replace the power cord reel with twist lock system, change out my original cord as well as the 6-2 going from reel to circuit breaker box as well as all breakers AND panel and instal the EM? Delete transfer switch since I have no genny, would this just about guarantee me the problem is fixed. I figure I can hire a retired tech to do all of these swap-outs and would be cheaper than $110/hr diagnostic labor fee from dealer who can't find the problem because it is sporadic. Is there anything else I should change out? Problem can't be beyond the breaker panel...can it? Also would be cheaper than trading, since they don't even want to give me what I owe on it. Thanks in advance for your replies. Steve A. Dagro
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Salvo
California
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Joined: 06/01/2008
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I don't buy into that approach. Draw a circuit diagram of your ac electrical system. Make a list of all circuit connections that could be at fault. Start with the most probable, and thoroughly inspect each item. If you have to, take it apart. Work down the list until you find the culprit. I don't think it will be that difficult.
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wa8yxm
Wherever I happen to park
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Joined: 07/04/2006
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The answer is not yes. (it is also not no but read on)
The problem may not be in the RV.
For now try this, Using a #6 wire bypass the NEUTRAL only lead on the transfer switch,, Just the neutral, run the jumper from LOAD to LINE. ONLY the neutral.
Then do some testing using a 12 volt battery and trouble light. Hook to the NEUTRAL bus at any handy point (Breaker box of transfer switch) and to the neutral pin on the plug, on a 50 amp that is the flat blade opposite the non-flat blade, Wiggle plug, wiggle wire, wiggle everythign, if you have a cord reel slowly pull the cord out while watching the light, if the light blinks, You have found the problem.
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business
Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377
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smkettner
Southern California
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Joined: 03/21/2005
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I would just bypass the reel and see how it goes.
May as well dump the transfer switch if it is not actually doing anything.
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CT_WANDERER
E. Lyme, CT
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Joined: 10/24/2007
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smkettner wrote:I would just bypass the reel and see how it goes.
May as well dump the transfer switch if it is not actually doing anything.
I am with smkettner, bypass your reel, also your transfer switch,if I understand you correctly. You don't have a generator?. Why have the transfer switch? Do you have an inverter? Also check your neutral lines in the CB box.
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