skipnchar
Topeka or somewhere else
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Joined: 12/17/2003
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I don't see anything wrong but if it needs adjusting I'd advise an adjustable hitch instead of an up or down only version. Your trailer LOOKS like it's large (heavy) enough that it probably REQUIRES a weight distributing system anyway. Your receiver is only rated for around 500 lb. without one.
Good luck / Skip
2011 F-150 HD Ecoboost 3.5 V6. 2550 payload, 17,100 GCVWR -
2004 F-150 HD (Traded after 80,000 towing miles)
2007 Rockwood 8314SS 34' travel trailer
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CGXterra
Virginia
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Joined: 02/16/2012
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skipnchar wrote:I don't see anything wrong but if it needs adjusting I'd advise an adjustable hitch instead of an up or down only version. Your trailer LOOKS like it's large (heavy) enough that it probably REQUIRES a weight distributing system anyway. Your receiver is only rated for around 500 lb. without one.
Good luck / Skip
Even though it's a class IV? I thought I was getting this towing stuff figured out. I was feeling like I was way overcompensating with a 2500HD with the towing package.
Ed & Jess - Suffolk, Va
2012 V-Cross Classic 29'
2009 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD
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K3WE
Missouri
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Joined: 05/24/2005
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Do some research- some tow bars say use in the "drop" position only.
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APT
SE Michigan
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Joined: 06/09/2010
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The GM HD receiver can handle more like 1000 pounds (look for a sticker on the receiver) without WD. I would flip it over if the shank is designed to do so. Level to slightly nose down, based on the frame, not the body of the TT.
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CGXterra
Virginia
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K3WE wrote:Do some research- some tow bars say use in the "drop" position only.
Will do. I only asked because the folks at the dealership where I bought my T/T reversed the one I had on my old truck. It was the first time I'd seen that and didn't know it couldn't be done with all of them. I'll check before I do it. Thank you for the advice.
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CGXterra
Virginia
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APT wrote:The GM HD receiver can handle more like 1000 pounds (look for a sticker on the receiver) without WD. I would flip it over if the shank is designed to do so. Level to slightly nose down, based on the frame, not the body of the TT.
Okay. Thank you very much to all of you for the advice.
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LIKE2BUILD
Mt. Zion, IL
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Joined: 09/30/2004
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Here's the quick and easy method. On a flat stretch of pavement get the trailer parallel to the ground. Between the wheels measure from the bottom of the frame to the ground. Now, at the A-frame measure from the bottom of the frame to the ground and use the tongue jack to move up and down until that measurement equals what you got at the wheels.
Not, measure from the top of the ball coupler to the top of the ball coupler to the ground. Finally, put the draw bar in the truck receiver and measure from the top of the ball to the ground.
With these values you can decide if you need to flip over the shank.
As a primary note, the shank you're using really needs to be one that is solid forged. Shanks that have a hollow 3" square tube with a 3/4" steel plate welded on as the drop section are not strong enough to support the weight of a TT. Here is the kind of solid forged shank I'm talking about.
KJ
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bicyclemark
Saint Paul, MN
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Joined: 02/22/2012
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I recommend always getting your trailer as level as possible for towing or just about anything else. The added stress on the axles, and tiers as well as uneven braking due to uneven loading will eventually create issues, and early failures.
I also recommend getting a weight distribution hitch for any medium to large TT. If your TT has a tong weight over a couple hundred pounds, when hitched the front end of your tow vehicle will become light. This will affect staring and braking.
Safety ~ no price is too high.
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CGXterra
Virginia
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Joined: 02/16/2012
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LIKE2BUILD wrote:Here's the quick and easy method. On a flat stretch of pavement get the trailer parallel to the ground. Between the wheels measure from the bottom of the frame to the ground. Now, at the A-frame measure from the bottom of the frame to the ground and use the tongue jack to move up and down until that measurement equals what you got at the wheels.
Not, measure from the top of the ball coupler to the top of the ball coupler to the ground. Finally, put the draw bar in the truck receiver and measure from the top of the ball to the ground.
With these values you can decide if you need to flip over the shank.
As a primary note, the shank you're using really needs to be one that is solid forged. Shanks that have a hollow 3" square tube with a 3/4" steel plate welded on as the drop section are not strong enough to support the weight of a TT. Here is the kind of solid forged shank I'm talking about.
KJ
Well that kind of narrows down my options. I do not have a solid forged hitch. The one I ended up buying is the one with the plate welded to the tube.
Thank you for the response.
Ed
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Vet Man
Ct. & Florida
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Joined: 09/28/2003
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I would also be concerned about excessive weight on one axel if the trailer is to far out of level. Could cause a blow out.
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