Chuck_S
Broadview Hts, OH, USA
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Joined: 03/15/2002
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Do some study before going any farther. Your last question tells us you don't (yet) know what you're doing. Unless you want the trailer to roll away you need to chock the trailer tires. 
And, if you want the trailer and truck to stop on the highway, you need a brake controller mounted in the truck. Wiring for this is part of the "HD Tow" package on some trucks, standard in others. Do NOT get your dealers "best selling" brake controller unless it's a Tekonsha Prodigy P2 or P3. Brake controller requires an under-dash connector (often a socket, otherwise you have to tap into the wiring), and a round "Bargman" power outlet on the rear of the truck. Brake lights work fine with a 4-pole connector, but brakes require more wiring.
"Hemi" is not a magic word for towing. The engine is only part of the equation. You need the right transmission and axle ratios as well. And you need a proper trailer hitch, sway control, and a Weight Distribution Hitch.
-- Chuck
'06 Roo 23SS behind '07 Expedition out of Cleveland
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LIF
Long Island
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Joined: 02/27/2012
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UPDATE: Front storage is clean, neat and dry. No sign of wetness, I pulled up the tile.
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LIF
Long Island
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Chuck_S wrote:Do some study before going any farther. Your last question tells us you don't (yet) know what you're doing. Unless you want the trailer to roll away you need to chock the trailer tires.
-- Chuck
Yes, I figured that. I just was asking if the unit auto locks when power is removed from the unit.
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bikendan
Napa, Cal.
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Joined: 11/21/2005
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LIF, there are some excellent FAQs, in the Beginning RVing forum here.
you'll be able to educate yourself on towing, hitches and brake controllers.
Dan- Firefighter , Shawn- Musician/Entrepreneur , Zoe- Faithful Golden Retriever , 2007 Chevrolet Avalanche LS, 2007 Rockwood Roo 23SS w/Equalizer and Prodigy, and 5 Mtn. bikes and 2 Road bikes
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LIF
Long Island
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bikendan wrote:LIF, there are some excellent FAQs, in the Beginning RVing forum here.
you'll be able to educate yourself on towing, hitches and brake controllers.
Yep, I'm reading them now, thanks!
Back to OP. Anything else I should be aware of regarding this specific make/model?
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ritterjw
Albuquerque,NM
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Joined: 03/12/2009
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We had a 2005 Thor Areolite Cub 214 we had no problems,no leaks,the floor plan is very open. We spent one weekend in Colorado with 60mph winds 7 people in the Cub playing games. I did replace the bunk end seals due to dry rot.
Very easy to tow.
We went to a hard sided TT as I am a very lite sleeper the tent ends were to loud for me.
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LIF
Long Island
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ritterjw wrote:We had a 2005 Thor Areolite Cub 214 we had no problems,no leaks,the floor plan is very open. We spent one weekend in Colorado with 60mph winds 7 people in the Cub playing games. I did replace the bunk end seals due to dry rot.
Very easy to tow.
We went to a hard sided TT as I am a very lite sleeper the tent ends were to loud for me.
Once my head hits any bed its wood cuttin' for me.. lol
No bathroom issues?
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ritterjw
Albuquerque,NM
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No issues at all.
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haroldpe86
Adamsville, MI
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Joined: 12/12/2004
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No. they do not lock. And you do not want them to. Aside from drawing down the battery, I doubt it is healthy for the brakes. You need to chock the camper wheels. Chocking is Rule #1 before detaching camper from truck. Next is leveling: side-to-side and front to back. Else the fridge will not work very well, amongst other things.
Congratulations and Good luck.
LIF wrote:Chuck_S wrote:Do some study before going any farther. Your last question tells us you don't (yet) know what you're doing. Unless you want the trailer to roll away you need to chock the trailer tires.
-- Chuck
Yes, I figured that. I just was asking if the unit auto locks when power is removed from the unit.
Gary - 2010 Kodiak 184 HTT
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LIF
Long Island
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Here's a picture of the type of hitch I have (wiring). Does this mean I need brake controller still?
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