Superglide is the way to go with short bed. My new truck is a 3500 long bed with B&W Companion-no slider. Keep in mind as you back up with the Superglide and turn your wheels your hitch pivot point is constantly changing. It also is a very heavy hitch.
I did realize that and I am about to mod mine for all those thing you mention. I will make my own mod to the capture plate to make it a one screw release and am going to make a slide stop for towing other trailers. and the one screw release will allow other to tow mine easily.
1950 Ford F1 street rod
1968 Baha Bug with 2.2 ecotec motor 170 hp, kingcoil
2000 National Sea Breeze 5th wheel trailer
1998.5 Dodge 2500 4x4 Cummins,4.10 gears,turbo,trans,injectors,oil cooler,lockers,edge EZ, 35" BFG's, air dog lift pump etc.
Your cab hitting experience is one of the reasons we wouldn't have a short box truck for pulling a 5th wheel trailer RV and also because it severly limits the size of a truck camper the truck can carry. Both of which we have and have had many of. My wife calls a short box truck a "half truck"! For us, a 4X4 crewcab long box or no truck at all!
I agree completely!
When I was shopping for a truck to tow a fifth wheel, a short box was never given any consideration.
As a retired mechanic, I firmly believe in "Get the right tool for the job!"
IMO, that was a long bed dually 1 ton.
Diesel, of course. Cummins, preferably.
It worked well.
CM1, USN (RET)
2002 Fleetwood Southwind 32V, Ford V10
Toad: '06 PT Cruiser, Kar Kaddy dolly
Toy (may become a toad): 2001 Dodge QC SWB, 360 Magnum, Auto, 4X4
"When seconds count, help is only minutes away!"
with my superglide I have to be I believe its 15 degrees or less from straight to connect and disconnect. big disadvantage. I can not tow another 5th without a capture plate. and others can not tow my 5th unless I remove the capture plate. It never makes a mistake as I turn and it slides back though. just some ideas.
Correct, have to be within 15 degrees of straight, but so far I've never had to be more than a couple of degrees from straight. My capture plate for a Lippert pinbox removes with only one hex nut, probably only takes 30 seconds to undo and the rig would be towable with any common FW hitch. I did notice the plate for a Mor-Ryde rig has several hex nuts, so the plates are different based on the pinbox model. I can do 90 degree turns with a 5-1/2' truck bed, so yes they work, but are definitely on the expensive side!
2002 Keystone Cougar 286, 8,400lbs loaded, pulled with a 2004 F150 Supercrew, 5.4, 3.73 gears. Retired and enjoying life
One reason to buy a short bed truck, generally with a crew cab, is garage space. We had a Chevy extended cab with a long box that just fit into our garage. When replacing it, I decided the new truck needed to fit into the garage, I hate to have it sit outside; especially during the winter, and a crew cab, which I wanted, would only fit if it had a short bed. I bought a slider hitch, manual, and have never hit my cab with the FW in nine years of towing. Have a new truck, diesel with a long bed, but kept the slider since the dealer didn't want it. I find that the long bed "feels" more cumbersome than the short bed although I think that feeling may diminish as I drive the truck. Haven' been able to tow a FW with it yet so don't know how that will "feel".
Another vote for the Superglide.
The points against it CAN be overcome:
- Your trailer CAN be towed with a regular hitch if you have the bolt-on capture plate and remove it.
- You CAN disconnect and reconnect at more than 15 degrees if you lift the hitch head in and out of the saddle using the fiver legs. It's a bit of a PITA but is the ONLY way I can unhook in my driveway at home (see sig pic).
- You can even hitch up a regular fiver (no capture plate) if you lock the Pullrite slider. A couple of posters on here have done it. Recommmended? Probably not.
Cost? Yes, you will spend $2K for a new one. ($1200 - $1500 more than a manual). A couple of folks on here might think that is cheap insurance. To me the peace of mind is priceless!
The above is very accurate. Especially the part about hitching/unhitching at greater than 15 degrees. Although it really is not that much of a PITA. Maybe a "bit" though. And they can be bought for less than $2,000 for lighter rated (15K) versions.
You can remove the capture plate and pull a standard pinbox. But locking the slide mechanism is a must, for doing that. When you do that the hitch plate functions exactly like the Super 5th non-sliding Pullrite hitch. Because the hitch plate assembly is IDENTICAL. So it is not a problem to use it like that.
The SuperGlide has a 5 year warranty. And the factory has GREAT...and I mean REALLY GREAT customer service.
It seems that many may offer advice about the SuperGlide, but they have little or no actual experience using the hitch. Kaydeejay is NOT one of those. So there is some mis-information posted. It is best to follow the advice of real SuperGlide owners.
'12 F350 SB, CC, SRW, 6.7 PSD, 3.55 RAR, 6 spd auto
2011 Open Range 393RLS 14,250 GVWR
Pullrite Super Glide 18K
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Happened to me too last summer. Just in too much of a rush, and too lazy to get out and use the slider. I bent the top corner of my Mega Cab but I didn't break the back window. Otherwise I have never had a problem in 6 years. One body shop wanted $2,200 to fix it. I looked at him and told him he was out to lunch on that price. Went to another local body shop - $500 cash. Did a great job
Cash is KING!!!!
2006 Puma 249 Fifth Wheel
2008 Dodge 1500 HEMI Mega Cab
Reese 16K Signature Series Slider Hitch
Pullrite makes a tight and quick U-turn very easy with no worriesof getting out in the rain or traffic.
Pullright can be hitched and unhitched at any angle by pulling two pins and removing the head. It does take a couple minutes extra but is rarely needed. I have always been able to get the truck straight-on enough when hitching and only a couple times had to unhitch by removing the head.