Jersey Shore
Jersey Shore
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So everyone here really has me excited about solar and not having to run, hear, and smell the Genny every morning. And tired of lugging and tripping over the 50A power cord in the driveway at home.
We dry camp occationally and most weekends at the track. I have read through many of the solar install posts, THANKS!. My head is still spinning. Also was sold on the LED's and replaced 12 bulbs this week.
I may have put the carraige before the horse but I went and bought Two 124w/24v Unisolar laminate panels for the easy install (stick down), lower weight, and saved on shipping as they were right down the street. Saved the seller on shipping and paid $170/each.
124w Unisolar laminate panels
For a controller, I'm leaning toward the Rogue as it has alot of features for the price and good support.
I don't see the need to add much more solar for our 2-3 night trips. But I know, we say that now, lol. Maybe add another 124w Unisolar and 2 more 6v's in the future.
We have two fresh 6v GC batts. and a 5500 Onan for the rare MW and AC usage or if needed to top off.
My questions are what GUAGE AWG wire to use and which inline fuses should we use from panels to controller and controller to battery?
Panels will be in parallel to a combiner box on the roof, 20'-25' run to the controller, and 2'-3' to the batteries.
I'll install a cut-off switch from panels to controller.
Hope to find time soon and have everything up and running by the first outing in April.
Thanks!
* This post was
edited 02/29/12 11:39pm by Jersey Shore *
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smkettner
Southern California
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From link:
"•Bypass diodes are connected across each cell
•Shadow & high heat tolerant"
I will suggest series, no combiner box and #10 wire to a switch with fuses similar to mine.
switch from home depot $15
10a fuses Actually looks like you should have 8 amp, easy search.
Looks like MC3 connectors. You can buy wire here: http://www.solarblvd.com/Cables or shop around.
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Golden_HVAC
Fulltime, CA, USA
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Hi,
Despite those who think that #2 wire is required for any solar installation, the minimum size is #10 wire. This will also handle your expansion at some later date. Each panel is only rated at 5 amps. #8 will allow for expansion for a third panel, yet that will make the total system 16' long and 4 feet wide, you might run out of space on the roof. Another dis-advantage to this style of panel, it is not a high wattage per square foot like other panels.
I have 2 runs of #10 wire on my 415 watt solar system, and probably lose some power because of it. Yet the wire run is short in my case, and I had the UV rated wire on hand, so I keep using it.
By 24 volts, my guess is open circuit is 30 volts, and the panel is only 5 amps each, and being mounted directly to the roof, it will get pretty warm, slowing production unless it is windy enough to keep the panels cool.
Fred.
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Jersey Shore
Jersey Shore
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Thanks guys,
I can fit up to 4 panels on the roof without shade issues.
The Rogue controller can only handle 60v VOC max. Will 2 (or 3) panels in series even work with the Rogue?
Electrical Specification: Uni-Solar PVL-124
Rated Power
Pmax 124 Watts
Nominal Operating Voltage 24 Volts
Operating Voltage (Volts)Vmp 30.0 Volts
Operating Current (Amps)
Imp 4.13 Amps
Open-Circuit Voltage (Volts)
Voc 42.0 Volts
Short-Circuit Current (Amps)
Isc 5.1 Amps
Series Fuse Rating (Amps) 8 Amps
Min. Blocking Diode 8 Amps
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smkettner
Southern California
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No series will not work with Rogue 
Voc 42 x 2 = 84 volts. Probably a bit higher in very cold temps.
Although you could probably just use a branch connector instead of a box.
http://www.solarblvd.com/Cables-&-Wires-Branch-Connectors MC3
#10 would still be fine to pull down to the controller even if you lose a small margin compared to big wire.
Still under 2% loss for 8 amps.
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mena661
Southern California
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smkettner wrote:From link:
"•Bypass diodes are connected across each cell
•Shadow & high heat tolerant"
I will suggest series, no combiner box and #10 wire to a switch with fuses similar to mine. X2
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N8GS
West Michigan
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A 25 ft run from panel to controller (that 50 ft of wire) at 8.2 amps results in a 1% voltage drop with #10 wire. Looks OK to me.
3 ft run to the batteries (6 feet of wire) Current will most likely be 18 amps or less. This assumes bright sun, cool day with a breeze, tilted panels or at least close to facing the sun, converter efficency of 95% and charging a battery that is at 12.5 volts. At higher battery voltage the current will be less. Based on the above #6 wire will result in a voltage drop of 0.060 volts (0.5%). If #4 is available and the controller lugs will accept it, use it because you will most likely discover that the run to the battery is really longer. It just always seems to work out that way.
Gale
From what I have found interviewing solar users properly installed systems generally have an overall efficency of 70% to 80%. So 124 watt panels = 248 watts times 0.80 = 198 watts delivered to the batteries. 198 watts/12.9 volts = 15.3 amps. So from this you can see the differance between theory and real world.
Ham radio 73's from Gale N8GS
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Jersey Shore
Jersey Shore
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Thanks for the specs Gale. Big help. And I really like the Y Connectors from SolarBlvd if we go parallel.
Another question...I can run the two 124v Unisolar panels in series with the Morningstar MPPT 45a controller . With the optional remote display, it would cost about $175 more then the Rogue....
OR I can get another Unisolar 124v panel for $170, run THREE panels parallel (372w), and use the 30a Rogue.
Which would be the better investment?
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N8GS
West Michigan
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Although I do not have any experance with those controllers I have been hearing good things about the Rouge.
I think I would get the extra panel. You will enjoy the extra watts a lot more than looking at a remote display. All that being said it is nice to see how the system is performing. I think having a good battery monitor is more useful because you know that its info isn't shaded by the controllers desire to make itself look good. There are several on the market. I happen to use the Xantrex LinkLite monitor but it cost $275.
Gale
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smkettner
Southern California
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You could run 3 in series with MS MPPT 45 down to about 0F. Or 2 series, 2 parallel. People tell me this is a superior MPPT but I don't know that Rogue is not just as superior.
So far I have skipped the optional display on my 60. You can always add it later. Charging profiles are very programmable on MS MPPT 45.
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