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 > Oil and transmission fluid change

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supra24valve

Jackson, Ohio

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Posted: 03/03/12 04:57am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If the fluid looks nice and red, and has no burnt odor, I dont think I would mess with it...I have changed a many of turbo tranny fluids and have issues after. Maybe hick thinking, but I guess I am from Ohio...lol
Do you have a transmission cooler?

garry1p

Oklahoma

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Posted: 03/03/12 01:47pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Always look-up P-30 VAN for the correct part, at least that has been my experience.

So far I have had no 1 ton P/U truck parts fit and if you tell the guy at the counter it's a MH some will tell you it the same as 1 ton P/U.


Garry1p


1990 Holiday Rambler Aluma Lite XL
454 on P-30 Chassis
1999 Jeep Cherokee sport


enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 03/05/12 04:35pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Jolts going into gear could also be the drive shaft center support.


Bud
USAF Retired
Suzuki XL7 pushing Pace Arrow



lamoz

Van Nuys , CA.

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Posted: 03/05/12 04:05pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

supra24valve wrote:

Shifting hard? before doing the fluid change, check for a vaccum leak going to and from the modulator. Get a good GM book for the 400 turbo, and locate where the lines do route, and also note where the adjustment screw is for the shifting points on the modulator.


Thank you, I'll check that out. It also jolts when I shift into gear, mounts may be worn as well.

lamoz

Van Nuys , CA.

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Posted: 03/05/12 01:19pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

supra24valve wrote:

If the fluid looks nice and red, and has no burnt odor, I dont think I would mess with it...I have changed a many of turbo tranny fluids and have issues after. Maybe hick thinking, but I guess I am from Ohio...lol
Do you have a transmission cooler?


It's shifting hard into second, so changing the fluid is the first thing I'm doing before assuming the internals are bad.

supra24valve

Jackson, Ohio

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Posted: 03/05/12 02:48pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Shifting hard? before doing the fluid change, check for a vaccum leak going to and from the modulator. Get a good GM book for the 400 turbo, and locate where the lines do route, and also note where the adjustment screw is for the shifting points on the modulator.

falconbrother

North Carolina

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Posted: 03/11/12 09:17pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

That's not an uncommon issue. There was a guy here that fixed that exact issue about a year ago. He ground off the rivets holding the bracket to the frame, put a new shock bolt through the bracket, then used good quality bolts to remount the bracket to the frame rails. At least that's how I remember it. That's what I would do.

I guess I need to check my modulator. It does jump into gear but, it shifts very smooth while driving.

falconbrother

North Carolina

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Posted: 03/05/12 04:57pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Jolts when you put it in gear? Welcome to the club. I have a 1991 P-30 and it has always done that and I have never given it a second thought. As far as motor parts, many are the same as a 3500 series truck. Some are not. Be darn sure before you put it on.

I also service mine and it's an easy truck (P-30) to work on, so far. Just a note, I change out my fuel filter every couple of years. It's awfully small for that big engine. You can buy them everywhere as it is the most common GM part ever made I think. Mine is located on the frame rail on the right side about 5 feet in front of the rear axle. It's a 10 minute job. The PCV valve is the same as the 3500 truck. The relay for the electric fans is just a standard heavy duty relay, off the shelf at Autozone. The switch for those fans is called a "factory air switch". If you need one and go looking for a temperature controlled fan switch you'll never find it but, they will sell you every one in the store. If you need tires, and have 16/7.5 and cant find those, make sure to not let them sell you tires that are too fat. 245's are too big and will cause the dually's to kiss. I run 10 ply, E rated, Cooper 215s. They work perfectly and drive nice. Don't overfill your tranny. In fact, if you fill it to the full it will weep out some fluid on steep climbs and you toad will really look nice when you get to the next stop. It's not hurting anything but, it makes a mess. I guess you know by now that the master cylinder is under the drivers floor board. Make sure to keep a check on that from time to time. It's a pain to get to but, it's barely enough to stop that rig so, you need it to be working right. I switched mine out last year for a rebuilt from Autozone. With core exchange it cost me 27 bucks. Now I have great brakes. The front right brake line is a problem on these years of P-30s. If it's the original I would switch it out. Expect the coach to take all your attention when your on the highway. From everyone I have talked to they all tend to need lots of attention to stay in the lane. No texting.

Have fun. I enjoy mine.

lamoz

Van Nuys , CA.

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Posted: 03/11/12 09:01pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ok so i got under the coach and sure enough, the rubber connector that is between the modulator and the metal vaccuum pipe was detiorated. Fixed that and now it shifts perfectly !!! thanks guys
Now with every good there is a bad....
I'm going to think that all the jolting during hard shifting is what caused it. I noticed the my rear shocks were at an odd angle.. Well they broke off the top mountin bolt!!! luckly they don't hit the ground as the parking brake cable catches them. Now how do I go about fixing this newly discovered problem? Do i take it to shop to have it welded? or do it replace this mounting bolt. My fear is that i need to know exactly what type it is, so it's strong enought to not bend or break again... ahhh the joys of ownership.



* This post was edited 03/11/12 09:33pm by lamoz *

supra24valve

Jackson, Ohio

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Posted: 03/05/12 04:53pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I know the driveline takes a beating with the weight these chassis have, but the strain that is puts on them when pulling up on boards or what ever to get them level at times must be a killer. Motor mounts u-joints drive shafts.
But yes check out the modulator. There is an adjustment inside of the modulator itself, running the screw in decreases the effect of manifold vacuum. Play with it if you find no air leaks all the way up to the manifold area.. And if oil is inside the vaccum line that is a sign of a bad modulator as well. They are kinda cheap anyway. keep us updated.......

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