I have been slowly restoring my 1990 TC and when the previous owner sold it to me it had no cord to plug the camper into the truck. Made a nice cord from an old semi pig tail I found on the side of the road with new plug ends I purchased for RV’s. Today I was under the pickup, the original charge line had been cut for some reason, so I had to lengthen it a bit and reattach it to the fuse block under the hood.
I see the original owner of my truck installed a Battery Isolator, it’s not hooked up but it appears if I knew how to route the wiring it would function for me. Does anyone have a similar unit and can show me or explain how to wire it correctly?
My alternator has the big red charge line coming out, it also has what’s called (I think) a sensor wire coming out of it. The sensor wire is blue.
As you can see in the picture right now I’m using just the one post as a terminal, but I’m guessing that the big red wire going into the Isolator stays on the post on the left, and I’m guessing that the charge line going to the fuse box should be on the terminal on the right. Not sure, but maybe the sensor wire goes on the top stud (in relation to the picture) and the camper charge line goes on the center bottom stud.
The orange fused wire is just for my CB radio in the cab, has nothing to do with the isolator or the camper.
Anyway if anyone can help it’s appreciated. Thanks, Hans
If there is a mfg'er name on the isolator, you can just do a search for the wiring diagram. For the four post, one is from the alt, one to each batt, and the other is power from the ignition. I had one of those, don't like it. It went bad and caused me charging problems, thought I had a bad alternator. Problem was the electronic isolator.
This is just a guess but when mine failed (at night in the middle of no place) I simply put all the connections to one post so I could keep going. Dont be surprised if it's bad - they have a terrible failure rate.
Scott, Grace and Wesly
2003 Dodge 3500 4x4, 6 speed Cummins (lightly bombed),
2004 Forest River 25RKS many, many mods.
H0NDA eu2000i
If you get it working, get to make SURE the isolator doesn't drop too much voltage across it. Many do (drop too much voltage). Just a few 10ths of a volt, and you won't get a full charge in the camper batteries.
cewillis wrote: If you get it working, get to make SURE the isolator doesn't drop too much voltage across it. Many do (drop too much voltage). Just a few 10ths of a volt, and you won't get a full charge in the camper batteries.
thats what the wire going back to the alternator is for, the voltage regulator ups the voltage to compensate for the drop.
I used a 'Continuous Duty' solenoid. Normal application is for operating "ManLifts'.
One wire from batter/alternator, one to camper(large), and switched wire(from the Accessory side), that way it's Not hot when you are trying to start the engine. But is, when you release from the 'start' position.
Had it on for almost 10 years with no failure. And it was a used one off a 'man lift' when it was installed. (Some knowledgable Foreman said to replace it. Because it was bad! I was good with that. Lift had a bad ground.)
If I recall they are rated for 48 VDC, and 12VDC activated. We of course don't need 48VDC, but they last really well. Good news is If they fail they fail 'open' not closed. So all the nonsense 'electronics' are not needed.
Hoppe
2011 Dodge 1500 C'boy Caddy
2000 Jayco C 28' Ford chassis w V-10 E450
Doghouse 36' or so Trophy Classic TT
Offline
