NewsW wrote: The maximum towing weight of the E-350 long wheelbase with the 6.0 diesel is 10,000 lbs.
With the V10, it is 9,400lbs.
There is no issue with the length of the van as long as normal loading / weight distribution issues are addressed.
In fact, I just had a look, and the extended van overhang is about the same, if not shorter than the overhang on a Suburban --- one of the most common tow vehicles.
Plenty of good Trailers for 4 people for under 7,000 lbs.
I derate factory towing capacity by about 30% to get to my "comfort zone".
Extended Ford E350 138" wheel base with 236" overall length
Extended Chevy Express 155" wheelbase with 244" overall length.
Suburban 3/4 ton 130" wheelbase with 224" overall
Significant difference.
The handling issues with the Fords has been discussed here extensively, so it is hardly an non issue. Chevies have had very few handling complaints.
When folks have done the calculations on trailers, with the factory built class Bs, they have found the tongue weight to kill them, going over GVWR for the van. Some will pull 5K, most try to stay at 3500, form what I have seen. You can get a decent trailer in that weight range, but it will not be huge.
NewsW wrote: The critical issue is the moment arm from the trailer hitch to the center of the rear axle.
That length is not materially different from the Suburban.
If a weight distributing hitch is used, it is not an issue.
A larger issue of the length of the moment arm and handling is there --- but it is no different from towing any trailer.
We are talking about a 9500# fully loaded 1 ton van, not a Suburban, which according to the numbers looks better on moment arm anyway. The Chevy van has much less overhang, so we compare to a Suburban?
You are also discounting the wheel base distance, which, when longer, increases directional stability, which really helps when towing.
The problems are well documented on this, and other boards, so the OP needs to consider them.
As for handling --- that is why proper trailer braking (and controller adjustment) is critical.
The big weight behind dragging keeps it straight.
I generally keep speeds down (70mph or less) but will take it to 80mph.
Note I derate towing by 30% from factory, so my 10,000lb limit is 7,000lbs on mine.
Maybe that is why I don't have problems.
The people that are having problems are probably those who are over weight, wrong pin weight, improper brake controller setup, and then expecting to go 85mph to keep up with traffic.
* This post was
edited 03/04/12 01:18pm by NewsW *
I'm reading between the lines here! Am I to understand you saying the Chevy is better for the front seat positions for leg room and comfort?
Is it better to start with a cargo or finished van?
As for the weight set up, I am not worried about that part. Being safe is important and speed is comfortable at 62 to cruise. No reason to go faster in my book when towing, especially in a family vacation setup.
We run semi trucks and medium duty trucks for work. I have set up a F-450 with a 37K capacity including the trailer and the biggest issue was setting up the brakes properly.
The experience and suggestions of setting up the interior is what I don't have. Are most of the DIY van B setups actually hand made custom cabinets?
kurtswen wrote: I'm reading between the lines here! Am I to understand you saying the Chevy is better for the front seat positions for leg room and comfort?
Matter of personal choice.
Have yourself and your intended passengers sit in it and make your own judgments.
Is it better to start with a cargo or finished van?
Maximum flexibility, cargo.
Much less work, passenger.
See below.
As for the weight set up, I am not worried about that part. Being safe is important and speed is comfortable at 62 to cruise. No reason to go faster in my book when towing, especially in a family vacation setup.
Do that speed, and 70% or less of factory recommended maximum tow weight, and you are fine.
The experience and suggestions of setting up the interior is what I don't have. Are most of the DIY van B setups actually hand made custom cabinets?
I want you to think once, twice then three times before you go and decide to build your own van.
Designing and building what looks good is one thing.
Designing a van with a reasonable likelihood of having 4 occupants survive a survivable crash is a second thing.
The safest way to achieve that goal:
Van with 2 front seats (factory) with 2 middle captains chairs immediately back, from factory.
Then a heavy duty barrier (commercially built) separating the two compartments.
Behind it, you can use your imagination --- knowing there is some protection (the barrier) from when cabinets, etc. collapse in a rollover or worse crash.
Avoid the use of a propane system --- more risk.
Much safer to use 110V AC, batteries (stored in frame rails), uprated alternator or dual alternators, or aux genset.
AFAIK, Fords are available off lease for a song, GMs are much harder to come by.
Need to know a lot more before I can walk you through the process.
PS:
In all fairness, survivability in most RVs commercially made for occupants in non-OEM Chassis Manufacturer seates (e.g. the front 2 seats of a B or C) is probably not that good.
* This post was
edited 03/04/12 03:22pm by NewsW *
kurtswen wrote: I'm reading between the lines here! Am I to understand you saying the Chevy is better for the front seat positions for leg room and comfort?
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