BCSJBaylor wrote: Just bought the thing and haven't had it out yet. But let's assume a vacation to Florida in June-July. You would recommend a second A/C?
BCSJBaylor wrote: Damn...gotta add another thousand bucks to my wish list!
So when I see these devices that you plug your 50-amp cable into and it splits between 30-amp and 20-amp plugs, that would be a different type of 50-amp than what would be "normal"?
Yes that would be 50 amps total, not 100 amps total.Get one that has 2 30amp plugs. Gives you 30 amps on each leg, 60 amps total. You can run both AC's this way. 20 amp plugs are GFCI if they are up to current code, and they will trip.
The "dogbone" style adapters feed both leg with 1 30 amp feed and you are limited to that 30 amps. If running this way I run the water heater and fridge on propane. And really watch what we run at one time.
What I see different in this 50 amp trailer over the last 30 amp trailer is, this has 2'nd AC, washer dryer plug, and plug for fireplace. All are 20 amp and on their own breakers.
Get one that has 2 30amp plugs. Gives you 30 amps on each leg, 60 amps total. You can run both AC's this way. 20 amp plugs are GFCI if they are up to current code, and they will trip.
Where do you plug two 30A plugs in at the pedestal?
30 amps give you two large loads at a time.
AC (each), Microwave, electric water heater, hair drier, etc
You may get 1 large and 2 medium loads, Coffee pot, toaster, curling iron, electric fridge, etc at a time.
When you first plug in the converter is going to be at max output topping off the batteries, then less of a load to offset the lights, fridge electronics, co detector, fans, etc.
On a 30 amp circut I would have to alternate the water heater, microwave, and AC to keep from popping the post braker. My biggest problem was the teenagers hair drier sneaking up on me and tripping the braker.
BCSJBaylor wrote: Damn...gotta add another thousand bucks to my wish list!
So when I see these devices that you plug your 50-amp cable into and it splits between 30-amp and 20-amp plugs, that would be a different type of 50-amp than what would be "normal"?
Yes that would be 50 amps total, not 100 amps total.Get one that has 2 30amp plugs. Gives you 30 amps on each leg, 60 amps total. You can run both AC's this way. 20 amp plugs are GFCI if they are up to current code, and they will trip.
The "dogbone" style adapters feed both leg with 1 30 amp feed and you are limited to that 30 amps. If running this way I run the water heater and fridge on propane. And really watch what we run at one time.
What I see different in this 50 amp trailer over the last 30 amp trailer is, this has 2'nd AC, washer dryer plug, and plug for fireplace. All are 20 amp and on their own breakers.
I didn't read what you originally said correctly - Jaycocampers is right. Those devices use the 30A and 20A to give you 50A - SOMETIMES. As I understand, some of the campgrounds that were modified feed the 30A and the 20A from the same 30A breaker upstream of the pedestal, so you really never get more than 30A. Some campgrounds ban those devices and I don't remember why.
2006 Ford F350 4X4 SB CC SRW Powerstroke 6.0
2013 Redwood 36RL - full paint - disk brakes
"Comparison is the thief of joy! - Theodore Roosevelt"
BCSJBaylor wrote: The converter I was talking about allowed you to plug in your 50-amp in one end and then out the other end came 2 cords...one with a 30-amp plug and another with a 20-amp plug. I guess the theory there is that if the electrical box has both 20-amp and 30-amp plugs, they'd be on different circuits so you can use both circuits to get your 50-amps???
This is also known as a cheater cord. You get 30A on one leg and 20A on the other leg. This is not the same as a 50A RV plug which gives you 50A on each leg.
It also does not work if either plug is a GFCI and 20A GFCI plugs are common in a CG. It also connects the 20A and 30A neutral together which can result in one of the neutrals being overloaded. Some CG's don't allow the cheater cord and they are very justified in that requirement. The others most likely are clueless about what they are allowing.
I have a single 15K AC and a 33' trailer. When camping in the Cape Canaveral area in the summer, cooling has been barely adequate when exposed to the full sun all day. I slipped large reflective car-type windshield shades between the windows and the blinds on the sunny side of the trailer. Also put shades under the 2 skylights. When in moderate or better shade, we have no cooling problems at all tho.
With a 37' trailer, if you are going to be in full Florida summer sun, I recommend the second AC.
We will be in Fort Wilderness (Disney) for 7 days, then heading up to the KOA in Pigeon Forge, TN for 4 days. I know that FW is rather shaded so hopefully I won't have a problem there. Pigeon Forge KOA can be shaded or open depending on where they put us.
I'll have to check the AC and see what it is. I didn't know there was such thing as a 15k unit, so maybe it has that and not the 13.5K I'm used to. As I just bought the thing and had it delivered in December, I haven't even turned the AC on yet. We're doing a shakedown trip beginning of May to check everything out.
Get one that has 2 30amp plugs. Gives you 30 amps on each leg, 60 amps total. You can run both AC's this way. 20 amp plugs are GFCI if they are up to current code, and they will trip.
Where do you plug two 30A plugs in at the pedestal?
Some CG's are set up this way and the second plug is available if the adjacent site is empty.
But with 2 30A overloading the neutral is also possible unless the 2 hots are on a split phase circuit.