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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Dometic RM 1350 refrigerator not working

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GWK

Mt. Gilead, Ohio

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Posted: 03/06/12 12:08pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Our Dometic RM 1350 refrigeraror appears to have stopped cooling. It has worked fine for almost 2 yr. This morning it was up to 47 degrees. I changed the temp setting to the coolest and it is still warming. It sounds like it is running. It was on "auto" and has both electric and gas sources. I switched it over to gas with no apparent change. I now has it off for a few minutes to see if something will reset. I believe it is under warranty but I can not get it to a service facility for around 10 days.

Any ideas will be appreciated...........

Thanks.


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OldGreaser

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Posted: 03/06/12 12:28pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you open the access from outside the rig there should be a few things you can check.
-Select propane and listen for it to start up. It should be obvious. This proves you have a heat source. A knowledgable person can readily check if you have heat when on 110v. A less knowledgable person can feel around until they burn their hand (a bit.)
-If you have cooling fans, have you heard them run lately? If they are installed they need to run. I have had this failure and without the fans you are subject to ambient temperature. You should be able to see an automotive blade fuse that's in an inline holder on an orange wire that supplies 12 volts to a small automotive relay (small black cube bolted to back wall). Change this fuse for luck. Mine was bent and not making the connection as delivered.
-If you can get at the circuit board (covered by a black plastic affair that has a liftable piece at the bottom) see if you can see & inspect and even better, test the two fuses that are on the board. You should find another small automotive blade fuse that you can change. You should also find a glass cylinder fuse that's an unusual length, about 3/4". If the glass fuse is blown, your 110v elements will not be energized. On mine, this fuse blew when the elements died. I think its purpose is to protect the circuit board. The auto blade fuse also needs to be good for the fridge to work properly.
That's the end of my dangerous amount of knowledge. I'm sure some good technical folks will come to your rescue with other things to be looked at & tested.

ArmySFCRet

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Posted: 03/06/12 01:14pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

And if you smell ammonia it's all over.


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enblethen

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Posted: 03/06/12 12:46pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would start by checking the connector for the thermistor. It is on the circuit board.


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dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 03/06/12 02:29pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Your warranty is 2 years Part AND Labor and the 3rd year is PART ONLY, YOU pay labor. The odds are the rear cooling fans are inop. Go outside and remove the outside access door and try to prop a house fan blowing up from the bottom to the top and see if it cools. Is this refer in a slide room? Doug

GWK

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Posted: 03/06/12 03:12pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I checked the fuses and the connections and things look OK. I guess it will just be an ice box until we get home.

Thanks for your help.........

OldGreaser

South Texas

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Posted: 03/07/12 06:12am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Good Luck, I hope it is not expensive. Please post the outcome.

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