Roadglider09

Florida

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Went to move my 98 Dynasty yesterday, and when I hit the mushroom switch, the brakes didn't release. I had 110 pounds of air on the gauge, and when I pushed and pulled the switch I could hear the air both build and release. I tried both forward and release. Finally, after hitting the switch 6 or 7 times, the brakes released. I live in Florida, so they're not frozen. Any ideas where I should start troubleshooting?
Michael & Donna
Little Ones Becky & Karen
Deland, FL
98 Monaco Dynasty
2013 Wrangler Unlimited Toad
Couple of Harleys (when not pulling the Jeep!)
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paulcardoza

Southeastern Massachusetts

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Had the RV been sitting for a while? Maybe they were just rusted in place and you won't have any issues after a short drive.
Paul & Sandra
New Bedford, MA
2003 Monaco Executive M43 DS2
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bluwtr49

Green Valley, AZ

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Agree, problably just stuck.
Does your E-Brake use a disc brake on the driveshaft?? If so, it could mean that the pins need a bit of lubricant.
Dick
2000 40" DP Beaver Patriot Thunder Cat C-12 425 HP, 1550 Tq
1997 Jeep GC Limited ---toad
2008 Toyota Tundra Crew Max Limited TRD (Retired)
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rvrepairnut

bc

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bluwtr49 wrote: Agree, problably just stuck.
Does your E-Brake use a disc brake on the driveshaft?? If so, it could mean that the pins need a bit of lubricant.
hello?? Its a diesel pusher with air brake system
Note to OP I have seen this happen a few times when coach is left in same position over a period of time the brake shoes seize(rust) to the drum.Usually just put it in revese and forward a couple times to rock it and they break free
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Roadglider09

Florida

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I drove the coach last weekend, so I know they're not rusted. As for the brakes, I know it has air cannisters on the front, and I thinker on the back also, but I'll have to crawl under and check the rears.
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RCtime

So. Calif.

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Put it in D, apply some power, the R, apply some power, back and forth, you will hear a bang when they release. Mine did that when a slight rust build up froze them.
If that doesnt work, get a mallet or big hammer and crawl under and bang on the drums and retry the above.
Ron
2002 34HD Winnebago Journey DL, Cat. 330/freightliner
2004 Honda CRV - Garmin 1490t
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TT/N
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johntichy

Florida

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You just have corrosion build up. Best thing is just go to reverse. 9 out of 10 times that will release the brakes.
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jorbill2or

Oregon

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Air brakes are locked on by massive spring pressure the air pushes against the spring to free the brakes .. They can and do become " stuck " on occasion backing and forward movement and pressure normally frees them. It is not a real concern as long as the really come free. There are info and classes on air brake operation that every do owner should see /take. These systems work differently than hydraulic systems and should be checked differently slack adjusters etc.
My post's are my opinion The advice, comments etc are free and worth what you paid 
Bill
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Roadglider09

Florida

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Thanks for all the advice. Sounds like this is not a major problem. I will look at some info on air brakes and check what I have.
Mike
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pigman1

Delaware

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When was the last time you had the drums off and lubed the brake rub points and "S" cams? Meritor recommends each 6 months, which in my opinion is way too often. I do my own maintenance and do the cleanup and re-lube every 2 years. We run between 10 and 25,000 miles a year. The wheels and drums need to be pulled, the cams, the roll pins and the rub points need to be cleaned and re -lubed with a special high temp brake lube. NAPA has a special brake lube that's purple and it works well.
No doubt you had a rust issue, but keeping the rest of the parts correctly lubed goes a long way to keeping the brakes from binding up when left engaged for a long time.
John
Pigman & Piglady
2013 Tiffin Allegro Bus 43' QGP
2011 Chevy Silverado 1500
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