I was there last fall, rode the motorcycle to Hole in the Wall, and walked through the campground but didn't camp there. The hole in the wall trail is short but interesting and there is a visitor center there. The old train station turned museum at Kelso is worth seeing too.
We've boondocked just outside Mojave National Preserve, and camped within at the Mid Hills campground. We prefer the Mid Hills campground as the campsites are further apart with trees separating most locations (many with a view), but Hole In The Rock is a fine campground... typical I think for desert federal locations.
The most desert vegitation I've seen anywhere is in the Preserve.
Off Pavement: from what I read online about Mojave, they didn't recommend Rv;s in Mid Hills CG. I'll have to check on that again but I'm pretty sure. I would prefer campsites further apart, that would be a plus.
Also I'm going around the 20th of this month if that would matter.
Hole-in-the-Wall Campground is the only improved campground in the Mojave National Preserve. However, there are other campgrounds nearby, such as Afton Canyon, Primm, Nv, and around Needles. There is paved road access to Hole-in-the-Wall. I’ve never camped there, so I’m not sure how well it is maintained. You can always call the park’s headquarters in Barstow at 760-252-6100.
we were there yesterday, but are staying in Barstow. unless you have a very small rig do NOT go to Afton Canyon. we did a drive by of Owl Canyon, and we could have fit our 37 ft 5th wheel there. Owl Canyon also has great hiking (rainbow basin). If you go to the Kelso Dunes in Mojave Preserve,, you have to run down the big steep hill to make the dunes sing. I also highly recommend the hike to the lava tube.
You can also stay at the Kelso dunes with any sized rig. If you have a reasonably sized rig, but not a big rig, you can also stay at the Lava Tube. These are approved dispersed camping areas with plenty of space but of course no facilities.
Hole in the Wall is pretty nice. The sites were quite large and it felt empty when I was there a few weeks ago with only 3 other campers.
I was just there last month: Not to camp but drove thru and it was so nice, lots to see, weather was warm, crowds were thin. You can dry camp anywhere where there is already a fire-ring in place so if you want solitude, you'll certainly find it.
I stopped in Kelso and had a slice of pie-ala-mode at the old-fashioned, restored lunch counter and drove to the dunes to see if I could hear the humming they are noted for. A real must visit)
Owl Canyon is just outside of Barstow and I was so surprized at how nice and clean and well maintained it was. There is water available and some nice hikes. The cost is $6. a night unless you have a Senior pass and then its $3. BUT I can't see staying there long as there is little to do after you have hiked the trails to Rainbow and to see the camel footprint fossils.
Afton is a nice campground also but last I heard the road to the dam/water/river was 4 wheel drive only.
Hole-in-the-Wall was the most unique and had some hikes but not for these old bones The campground above Hole isn't recommended for RVs. Its higher than the rest, so I would pack warm clothes for the cool nights.
If you drive thru Barstow on the way, stop at the Mojave Headquarters for more ideas. (Its at I15, and the Hwy 247 exit) and you go to Barstow without visiting the Route 66 and Railroad museum.
I took I40 and Route 66 east out of Barstow and that was kind of fun, especially if you stop and get a road quide to point out the sites. But beyond Ludlow 66 is a washboard and not much to see or do. Get back on I 40 to the KelBaker Road exit.