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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

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Johno02

Lexington, TN USA

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Posted: 03/09/12 06:19am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

X2 on get rid of the small cords!!! Get or use a plug in volt meter to check voltage at source and inside the RV. Low volts will cause your type problems.


Noel and Betty Johnson
2005 GulfStream Ultra Supreme, 1 wife, 1 Poodle

mpierce

Scranton, ND

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Posted: 03/09/12 06:32am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

+1 on bigger cord. Plus, you need to be sure circuit you plug into is 20 amp. And, you still should reduce your load some. I suggest you harmed the gfi with low voltage. replace gfi, update cord, and reduce load some, and should be ok.

rockhillmanor

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Posted: 03/09/12 07:18am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Quote:

Which was as follows: 22" LCD TV, Laptop charger, Electric Mattress Pad, and my space heater on the high setting.

Now I know this is a little on the high side
. However, I haven't had a problem with doing this for the past month.


A LITTLE on the high side?

First of all I too ran out and bought one of those oil heaters. Thought they were great that is UNTIL I found the cord getting flaming hot. After its on for awhile grab a hold of the cord by the outlet......you will change your mind about having that heater in your MH.

Having a thermo stat electric mattress pad AND a space heater on NEVER works ever in a MH. The sporadic blowing of the breakers is when the the thermo stat turns on and off. Heater on and the mattress calls for more heat is when I bet your breakers blow.

That oil filled heater will blow the breakers anytime you turn on a micro, coffe pot, etc on too.

Don't care how big your rig is once a heater is plugged in you can not plug anything else in, and IMHO certainly not an electric mattress heater at the same time.


"We must be willing to get rid of the life we've planned,
so as to have the life that is waiting for us".


enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 03/09/12 07:48am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The solenoid on the LP tank is for the LP detector. It shuts off the propane when the detector goes off. Nothing to do with the 120 volt system.
Does anything 120 volt volt work? Does the AC unit, the microwave, refer on AC?
Does the rig work when running genset? ( No, possible Tranfer switch issue)
Next disconnect all 120 volt power. Located AC power distribution panel.Disconnect each conductor, one at a time, clean neutral buss and conductor, apply some electrical grease on conductor and re-terminate.
Is the rig 30 or 50 amp? What kind of adapters are you using?


Bud
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wilpower

Florida

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Posted: 03/09/12 07:49am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just to clarify. He says GFCI keeps blowing, not the breakers. Yes he's pulling too much for the cord he's using, but why the GFCI? and not the breakers?


Wil & Cyndi & Einstein (African Gray)


garym114

Bluff Dale, Texas

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Posted: 03/09/12 08:00am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A 15 amp load on a 50 foot, 14 gauge cord drops the voltage almost 4 volts.
Don't run any heaters on high until you get a larger power cord.
Same thing on a 10 gauge cord drops the voltage 1.5 volts.


2000 Sea Breeze F53 V10 - CR-V Toad
Some RV batteries live a long and useful life, some are murdered.
Get a Digital Multimeter and Learn How to Use It


enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 03/09/12 08:21am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The GFCI is seeing a difference in loads between the neutral and the phase conductors which causes the GFCI to trip. The circuit breaker would trip on an overload or in some cases a thermal problem.

ksg5000

Oregon

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Posted: 03/09/12 08:33am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A 92 rig would have come equipped with a CCI propane detector and associated solenoid. CCI went out of business sometime ago and a "hot solenoid" maybe a sign that someone replaced the CCI propane detector but didn't replace the solenoid. The new detectors are not compatibles with the old CCI solenoids as they put out 12 volts vs the CCI 9 volt(?) solenoid which causes the solenoid to heat up.

If my assumptions are correct you can either replace the solenoid with the proper one - or take the rig down to a propane dealer and have the solenoid removed (new rigs don't come with solenoids anyway) - another alternative is to leave the solenoid in place, disconnect the wires, and remove the guts/piston of the solenoid.


Kevin

RoyB

King George, VA

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Posted: 03/09/12 10:31am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I hope I read all of this info correctly but the first thing I would do is get the garage connection up to standard.

Locate a 120VAC Receptacle in the garage that is close to the House main breaker panel. Make sure the 120VAC receptacle is in good shape has good clean looking contacts on it and nothing that is black colored or burned etc...

Then plug-in a good "HEAVY DUTY" 10 gauge (10-3) three prong plug (this is not going to be the cheap grade extension cords) and run this out to your trailer. I have two separate spots in my garage where one 120VAC receptacle is on a 15A breaker and the other one is on a 20A breaker. I have a fifth wheel trailer and OFF-ROAD POPUP trailer in my CAMPBACKYARD.

I have a 50-foot 10-3 extension cord plugged into the 20AMP circuit and run out into the yard where it meets up with the RV30A Shore Power Cable. Here I use a RV30A-15A 18-inch long "DOGBONE" adapter (Walmart) to plug into the 50-foot (10-3) extension cord and then the RV30A Shore power cable plugs into the adapter. I DO NOT use the small black plastic round RV30A-15A adapters as they always got hot on me after being used for a short time.

On my 15A Garage receptacle I plug in a 75-foot Heavy Duty 10-Gauge (10-3) extension cord and run that out to the OFF-ROAD POPUP in my Camp Backyard. here I do the same as above and use another RV30A-15A 18-inch long adapter (Walmart) to connect to the POPUP trailer Shore power Connection.

DO NOT USE this type of RV30A-15A adapter. Mine always get hot on me..

After all of this is hooked up and power turned on to both trailers I checked after an hour or so to make sure that none of the connection in the garage or at the mid way junction point where the adapters were being used got hot. Luke warm is permissible but if they are getting hot then you have a poor connection.

On the inside of each trailer I have installed one of those RV120VAC plug in meters where you can check them easily. This meter has a AC VOLTAGE Scale on the face of it and is marked with a "GREEN" scale which indicates this is the normal AC VOLTAGE you must have before turning on anything that draws alot of current like your Air Conditioner or your 1500W heater.


I have been using this method for a few years now to connect my two RV trailers to my garage 120VAC 15A/20A receptacles.

I can run everything inside the RV trailers but may have to select what is ON together like the Mircrowave and Air Conditioner at same time other it will trip my garage breaker.

* This post was last edited 03/09/12 10:54am by RoyB *   View edit history


My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - PM me
Roy and Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS
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wa8yxm

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Posted: 03/09/12 11:00am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When you reset the GFCI does it "Reset then immed pop" or does it refuse to reset?

Different symptoms different causes.. I will tell you how to simulate the 2nd problem to you understand the difference if any.

UNPLUG. that is from shore power and turn off any inverter or.. Open the circuit breaker that feeds the GFCI.. In this mode there is no power to the GFCI outlet and it will not reset... (Trip it first if you have to)

now.. If that is the symptom.. then the problem is "Up-stream" from the GFCI.

NOTE: a current overload WILL NOT TRIP a GFCI.. that is the job of a circuit breaker and if the circuit breaker trips, the GFCI will not reset.

If, howevever it trips, and then immed trips (Makes a louder noise than the above) check the patio outlet it is GFCI protected and as the rig ages often the weather seal on the cap fails, the box fills with water and ... Well, CLICk goes the GFCI, this will NOT trip the circuit breaker (not enough current) but it will trip the GFCI.

Also, unplug everything on the GFCI (Some places put the fridge on that line) and if it then resets plug back in one item at a time till CLICK happens.


Home is where I park it.
Kenwood TS-2000 housed in a 2005 Damon Intruder 377


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