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Tslice

Colorado Springs

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Posted: 03/09/12 02:01pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I fixed it!! That was the problem! I feel so happy now


Thank you so much everybody that helped. I have some more questions for some of you with the suggestions about adding another 20 amp outlet, and I have some other general questions. Is it cool if I PM you roy?


32' Pace Arrow 454 Gasser, Mor-Ryde Suspension Professional Limo Tint, Blackout Blinds, Custom Desk, All Black Appliances, Updated flooring & dining table, LCD TV's Front & Back, 7000w Onen, 3750w Centurion, Dometic Awning


LittleBill

Scranton, PA USA

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Posted: 03/09/12 02:16pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

i hoped you used a new wire nut, and stripped back some of the damaged wire





Chris Bryant

DeLand, Florida, USA

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Posted: 03/09/12 02:53pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Electrical tape on wire nuts is actually used in RVs, just for vibration resistance (never to cover poorly stripped wires).


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pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 03/09/12 03:14pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi Tslice,

Great news on the fix!

Simply add an outlet and run some #10 or #12 wire to it. If you put it near the converter, as I did, you can do some interesting things.

My "extra" shore power cable comes out of the same box where the OEM power cord is located.

Tslice wrote:

I fixed it!! That was the problem! I feel so happy now

Thank you so much everybody that helped. I have some more questions for some of you with the suggestions about adding another 20 amp outlet, and I have some other general questions.



Regards, Don
Full Time in a Kustom Koach Class C 28'5", 256 watts Unisolar, 875 amp hours in two battery banks 12 volt batteries, Magnum 3000 watt PSW inverter.

smkettner

Southern California

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Posted: 03/09/12 03:52pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Way to go

I have never understood the black tape on the wire nuts. If the wire is hanging out then to much insulation was removed. JMHO.


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ksg5000

Oregon

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Posted: 03/09/12 02:37pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Tslice wrote:

Yea that was what I was thinking. It looks bad, and it definitely looks like the culprit. Notice the electrical tape? Perhaps that was the electrical tape and the wire patching that the original shop I took it to, that charged me $600 was talking about. They told me they patched hot wires by the outlet in the bathroom, and by the water heater. Were they straight up lying? ...


My experience is that most outfits won't outright lie -- some may not be as competent as others. You have an older rig and have been over stressing the electrical system by running too many high demand appliances all at the same time -- combine that with an inadequate extension cord and I am not surprised that you can end up with more than one electrical issue. Some might argue your lucky you didn't start a fire.

I seem to recall a thread not more than a week or so ago that discussed the fact that even one electrical heater set to max can overtax the electrical system of a rig -- worth a read if you can find it using the forum search feature.


Kevin

pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 03/09/12 05:48pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi Tslice,

Yes, you have it right.

In my RV the converter is a three prong plug, so when there is poor quality shore power, or low amperage, I can plug in just the converter--and run the rest of the RV from the inverter (2500 watts). Essentially the RV becomes an uninterruptible power supply.

Since my converter is only 723 watts going FULL BLAST, I can also plug in a small electric heater to that 15/20 amp circuit.

Tslice wrote:

Do you add a 20amp male plug (3 prong) on the end of the 10 guage wire so you can plug the "extra circuit" into the 20amp plug on the pedestal / at home?

So basically what you're doing is grabbing a new outlet. Wiring it to the 10 or 12 guage wire, and placing it somewhere inside the motorhome. Then on the other end, the end that is on the outside of the RV, you add a male plug in, so you can simply "plug in" the additional outlet (and therefore have an additional "circuit", without wiring it into the RV's breaker box).

Do I have this right? Or am I just totally off?


Tslice

Colorado Springs

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Posted: 03/09/12 04:33pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ksg5000 wrote:

Tslice wrote:

Yea that was what I was thinking. It looks bad, and it definitely looks like the culprit. Notice the electrical tape? Perhaps that was the electrical tape and the wire patching that the original shop I took it to, that charged me $600 was talking about. They told me they patched hot wires by the outlet in the bathroom, and by the water heater. Were they straight up lying? ...


My experience is that most outfits won't outright lie -- some may not be as competent as others. You have an older rig and have been over stressing the electrical system by running too many high demand appliances all at the same time -- combine that with an inadequate extension cord and I am not surprised that you can end up with more than one electrical issue. Some might argue your lucky you didn't start a fire.

I seem to recall a thread not more than a week or so ago that discussed the fact that even one electrical heater set to max can overtax the electrical system of a rig -- worth a read if you can find it using the forum search feature.


Well that is good to know. They are a big shop, with great reviews online, and that was the reason I went to them. It's just hard for me to not think in the back of my head that they lied. But there is also a chance they were telling the truth. Who knows?

I was under the impression that if you can run the devices without the breaker tripping, then you're fine. I guess I was very wrong. So let me get this straight. You can be over loading a circuit, and doing damage, and yet the breaker won't always trip? If that's the case, then I need to be even more careful.

I have been running the space heater in my RV continuously because it is my only source of heat. I've gotten the inside insulated to the point where it can be 15 degrees F outside, yet I can keep the inside above 60 degrees with just one space heater!

Would it make more sense to run two oil filled on the 600w setting, or just the one on the 1500w setting?

Also, I would like to use my furnace, however, I don't know a ton about propane. The propane tank is on the drivers side, underneath where the couch is in the galley. Is it safe to turn on the propane without first having someone go over the system for safety (such as test for leaks)?

Tslice

Colorado Springs

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Posted: 03/09/12 04:35pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

LittleBill wrote:

i hoped you used a new wire nut, and stripped back some of the damaged wire


Yes. I cut off the nasty wire, and re-stripped it. All better.

I think I did a lot better job then the original person that stripped that wire and added that nut

Tslice

Colorado Springs

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Posted: 03/09/12 04:42pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pianotuna wrote:

Hi Tslice,

Great news on the fix!

Simply add an outlet and run some #10 or #12 wire to it. If you put it near the converter, as I did, you can do some interesting things.

My "extra" shore power cable comes out of the same box where the OEM power cord is located.

Tslice wrote:

I fixed it!! That was the problem! I feel so happy now

Thank you so much everybody that helped. I have some more questions for some of you with the suggestions about adding another 20 amp outlet, and I have some other general questions.


Do you add a 20amp male plug (3 prong) on the end of the 10 guage wire so you can plug the "extra circuit" into the 20amp plug on the pedestal / at home?

So basically what you're doing is grabbing a new outlet. Wiring it to the 10 or 12 guage wire, and placing it somewhere inside the motorhome. Then on the other end, the end that is on the outside of the RV, you add a male plug in, so you can simply "plug in" the additional outlet (and therefore have an additional "circuit", without wiring it into the RV's breaker box).

Do I have this right? Or am I just totally off?

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