ewarnerusa
Helena, Montana
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Here is the top view.
Here is the interior garnish.
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ewarnerusa
Helena, Montana
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TUCQUALA wrote:Suggest contacting the trailer mfg, and finding out if the roof is already "roughed in" for a vent. A lot of them are. Then you only need to find the joists and cross supports and cut!!
And, yes, if not roughed in, you should add to the framing to make a "box" for the vent.
I did just that, thank you for the excellent suggestion! I got a schematic that shows a vent area already put in.
* This post was
edited 03/13/12 08:47pm by ewarnerusa *
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ewarnerusa
Helena, Montana
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OP here.
I have noticed that some other models of my TT on the dealer lot HAVE THE BATHROOM VENT INSTALLED! Had I been more aware of the situation at the time of purchace, I might have made them install one as part of the purchase. But that is in the past and I can't change it now.
Tomorrow looks like nice spring weather, I think I'll get after it. I've snooped around with electronic stud finder and it does seem like there is a frame for the vent already boxed in. Plus having seen other units at the dealer with the vent installed in this same locations gives me confidence that this should be straight forward. Here's hoping!
One thought/question. The instructions are for removing an old vent which I won't be doing. But in the instructions it looks like the old vent was installed directly against the wood with the rubber part of the roof trimmed away to expose the wood beneath it. I wasn't planning on doing this, I wanted to just mount it right up against the rubber and not worry about trimming the rubber back. Does that seem ok? Here is the picture from the instructions that I'm talking about. The installer is removing the old sealant.
It also mentions this gasket which I do not think I received. I did order an installation kit and some Dicor, so I hope that will substitute for this gasket.
Here's a pic of the kit that I ordered. I ordered the butyl tape version which said it was for installation on a rubber roof.
* This post was
edited 04/13/12 02:09pm by ewarnerusa *
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ewarnerusa
Helena, Montana
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Deleted
* This post was
edited 03/13/12 08:52pm by ewarnerusa *
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BillyW
North ID
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As far as boxing it in, I did add 2x2 cross members at the bottom, I didn't do anything at the top. The hole will fit snugly right between the rafters and the weight of the vent rests right on them. I saw no need for any reinforcement on top.
'97 F150 4X4
'04 Pioneer 18T6
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westend
all over
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Most likely they had different layouts, bath left, bath right but you should confirm with Mfg.. Good advice on finding a roughed in vent opening, preexisting. That will make things a lot easier.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton
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ewarnerusa
Helena, Montana
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I got it installed yesterday during the nice spring weather. Now today we have snow accumulation on the ground! So we'll see how well my sealing job was...
The ceiling actually did not have a box roughed in so I was a little bummed about that. But the distance between studs where it was mounted is exactly 14" so the fan mounted perfectly between the rafters. And that meant that from below the garnish also mounted right up to the rafters in all four corners, so I didn't see what a roughed in box would have accomplished in this instance.
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falconman
On The Road!!
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In that illustration it doesn't look like there is any "attic" space for the unit he is working on. If you have ducted a/ c you will. I would start cutting from the inside and work your way to the corners of the vent framing. Drill a hole upward at each corner thru the roof. Once on the roof cut a "X" in the rubber roof material and fold its back temporarily. Cut the plywood roof out and fold the rubber materiel back inside and wrap the inside edges, then cut off the excess. Install the exterior portion of the vent with the caulking making sure you cover all the screw holes. A layer of Eternabond would be nice also.
Run the wires and install the inside trim. Hopefully the interior garnish ring is the right depth.
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