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Topic: Norcold has New Recall

Posted By: Leewhiz on 03/12/12 06:14pm

This past weekend I put in new batteries in my coach and when I went to turn all the power back on, my Norcold refrigerator started beeping. Checking the code, I was getting a code "LI oP". I then looked around to see what was going on, and when I opened the outside access, I found that I had a problem. The red light was lit on the new sensor electronics module that was just installed a year ago last November.

Today I took the coach into the dealer and they called Norcold on it and they were told to shut down my refrigerator and do not turn it on until they got a new recall kit for it. They said that it should arrive in 7 - 10 days and that Norcold would cover all costs. The "new" recall kit apparently replaces the electronic sensor unit that was installed 16 months ago.

Here we go again!


Lee
2008 Tiffin Phaeton QDH



Posted By: sunkatcher on 03/12/12 06:27pm

I heard about this issue about 6 months ago. If you unhook your batteries or they go completely flat the recall control will trigger and you have no way to reset it when you get power back to your coach. Knowing this you might think that the dealers would have a few kits on hand to install. Not make someone sit for days or weeks setting. O-Well just glad we have a Dometic.


masa4u.com


Posted By: wingtraveler on 03/12/12 07:26pm

Leewhiz wrote:

This past weekend I put in new batteries in my coach and when I went to turn all the power back on, my Norcold refrigerator started beeping. Checking the code, I was getting a code "LI oP". I then looked around to see what was going on, and when I opened the outside access, I found that I had a problem. The red light was lit on the new sensor electronics module that was just installed a year ago last November.

Today I took the coach into the dealer and they called Norcold on it and they were told to shut down my refrigerator and do not turn it on until they got a new recall kit for it. They said that it should arrive in 7 - 10 days and that Norcold would cover all costs. The "new" recall kit apparently replaces the electronic sensor unit that was installed 16 months ago.

Here we go again!


Below I posted a letter I copied from somewhere on the issue. The writer of the letter is a repair facility many folks use and trust. As far as the control unit is concerned if the batteries are disconnected or there is a loss of power to the frig AND YOU ARE ABSOLUTELY SURE THAT IS THE CAUSE OF THE RED LIGHT, then the control unit can be jumped out to restart the frig. Of course if your coach burns down you are then on your own, that is why they want it turned off immediately. The control unit senses over temp situations.

After reading the letter and I confirmed with Norcold.


>Hi Everyone,? ?Dale and I are doing our best at trying to get all of your concerns about this recall taken care of. We have been receiving emails and phone calls about power being taken away and the fridge getting locked out. We just talked with Norcold again about this problem. Dale even asked them about unplugging the sensor on the flue. They did tell him they have over 150,000 of these recall kits going out and there will probably be some faulty ones in these. Nothing is fool proof! They told us that disconnecting the fridge, batteries, unplugging the fridge none of that should affect the fridge or shut it down. If your fridge gets locked out by the box because of power being taken away from the coach for what ever reason then either the sensor switch or the temp sensor on the flue is faulty.?They also told us that the kit we had when Dale unplugged the temp sensor at the flue was a bad kit. They said he did nothing wrong. If the temp sensor gets unplugged and the red light comes on and the fridge does not come back on, they said to take power away from the sensor switch, then plug it back in and it should be fine. If it is not then the temp sensor is bad and needs replaced.?Dale and I will continue to try to answer all the questions you have about this recall and hopefully elevate your concerns for you!??Thank you, Denise ?Dale N Denise's RV Repair ?Decatur, Indiana

* This post was edited 03/13/12 07:07am by an administrator/moderator *


08 Discovery 40x
08 Hyundai Sonata GL toad
08 Honda Goldwing



Posted By: Ivylog on 03/12/12 08:19pm

Norcold is now on revision E of this bandaid.


This post is my opinion (free advice). It is not intended to influence anyone's judgment nor do I advocate anyone do what I propose.

04 Monaco Dynasty 42' quad slide
Where am I?
How I tow.


Posted By: JC2 on 03/13/12 05:14am

The number of times that NoCold has and most likely will continue to provide band-aid fixes for an obviously flawed product has become unacceptable. It's probably just a matter of time before, someone unfortunately, will get seriously hurt from using this pos. I personally wouldn't have one of their questionable fridge's anyone near me and would replace the cooling coils immediately if not sooner. Is it fair for the consumer to have this expense, no, but the alternative might not be pretty. Based on info at hand, the following link seems to be the best approach at this time moneywise for a lot of people. Davide Force, who runs the company, is more than willing to answer any questions you may have about replacement cooling coils. If you have a sufficent battery bank, then some have been replacing their fridges with the Samsung RF197 residential unit.
http://rvcoolingunit.com/Default.aspx


2004 Newmar DSDP 4015,Cummins ISL 370hp,Spartan MM Chassis,2008 Saturn Vue FWD Towed,FMCA #402879,SKP#120487


Posted By: Doug and Cassi Glass on 03/13/12 05:43am

On my third recall kit now.


Posted By: RCtime on 03/13/12 08:22am

I disconnect my house batteries every time I put my coach in storage , or non-use for any period of time via the house battery disconnect switch. 100s of times. Plus I have one of the 1st, not THE 1ST generation of recall boxes and no problems.


Ron
2002 34HD Winnebago Journey DL, Cat. 330/freightliner
2013 Honda CRV - Garmin 1490t
Great wife & Cavalier King Charles Spaniel, RIP
TT/N


Posted By: doc brown on 03/13/12 08:27am

Larry Cohen wrote:

It's amazing that this company is surviving...as someone mentioned above, one catastrophe due to this POS refrigerator may put them away....I have ZERO regrets changing over to Whirlpool!!!


I had recall A-D before I tossed the Norcold.


Steve,Kathy,Josh & Morpheus the Basenji
2004 40' TSDP Country Coach Inspire DaVinci
350 Cummins, 3000 Allison
2008 Wrangler X Rubicon/Blue OX Tow Bar/Ready Brake


Posted By: Sooboy on 03/13/12 06:49am

Ivylog wrote:

Norcold is now on revision E of this bandaid.


Would someone be able to tell me how to tell which revision is installed in my RV? Where would I look?

Thanks!


2012 Jayco Embark TB390
2009 Honda CRV TOAD with Blue Ox Aventa LX Tow Bar
FMCA #F413428



Posted By: Streetlight on 03/13/12 06:07am

I guess I got lucky. I replaced my house batteries last month and my frig works fine. Could be that my coach was plugged into shore power while I changed the batteries and the frig was powered by the inverter.


Dave & Dolly
2013 Tiffin Phaeton 40 QTH
2008 Honda CRV
Blue Ox Tow Bar
US Gear Unified Brake



Posted By: dougrainer on 03/13/12 06:37am

For the past 2 years Norcold has been getting feedback from the first recall kits that failed and updates the electronics as they find the reason for failures that do NOT involve the reason for the recall. They are at REV E and Norcold will replace at NO CHARGE any kit that fails for any reason other than the overheating that it was designed for. Certain parameters have caused the first kits to fail and once they get them back and have analyzed the failure they update the kit, hence REV E. Most GOOD service centers should have a few REV E kits in stock to prevent the customer from waiting for the new kit to arrive. Doug

* This post was edited 03/13/12 07:10am by an administrator/moderator *


Posted By: Larry Cohen on 03/13/12 06:39am

It's amazing that this company is surviving...as someone mentioned above, one catastrophe due to this POS refrigerator may put them away....I have ZERO regrets changing over to Whirlpool!!!


2006 Mountain Aire 43
Short haired wife, long haired daschund and 3 sugar gliders are co-pilots, along with Garmin Nuvi 855
05 Honda Pilot with Air Force One supplemental brake
Blue Ox Aventa II towbar
Whirlpool Residential Fridge !!!



Posted By: Ivylog on 03/13/12 08:32am

Sooboy wrote:

Ivylog wrote:

Norcold is now on revision E of this bandaid.


Would someone be able to tell me how to tell which revision is installed in my RV? Where would I look?

Thanks!

Take the outside vent off and find the black 2" square box that may be clamped to one of the tubes and the sticker on it should say which one you have.


Posted By: Buck62 on 03/13/12 08:35am

I am not doing the recalls, I installed a SS-30 Small-Format Automatic-Release Fire Extinguisher in my refer back cabinet. The extinguisher is aimed at the fire box and will automatically trigger one pound of Halon into the refer compartment.


Posted By: hottubkid on 03/13/12 09:01am

confused,,, Is this all norcold 1200 refers???????


hottubkid60193@yahoo.com
2004 SOUTHWIND 36E Tow 2003 CRV



Posted By: wingtraveler on 03/13/12 10:01am

hottubkid wrote:

confused,,, Is this all norcold 1200 refers???????


yes


Posted By: RayChez on 03/13/12 10:26am

The last recall was the heat sensor on my coach, and I have not had any problems with it and I have my inverter turned off all the time. I have disconnected my batteries when servicing them. Knock on wood but my has been flawless.


2002 Gulf Stream Scenic Cruiser
330 HP Caterpillar
3000 Allison Transmission
Neway Freightliner chassis
2013 Honda CR-V EX
Aventa II
FMCA member


Posted By: Gale Hawkins on 03/13/12 01:00pm

Streetlight wrote:

I guess I got lucky. I replaced my house batteries last month and my frig works fine. Could be that my coach was plugged into shore power while I changed the batteries and the frig was powered by the inverter.


I expect that saved the day for you.

Not sure why Norcold would build it that way since it is sure someone is going to have a RV with a battery shut-off switch and use it.


Posted By: Jim@HiTek on 03/13/12 01:31pm

Wow, and then there's those of us who are planning on upgrading our RVs this fall...I've been looking at used units for months and they are almost always 2-4 door Norcolds! Darnit!

My Dometic hasn't been trouble free, but at least I don't have to worry about it burning down my RV.


Jim@HiTek
Have shop, will travel!
Visit my travel & RV repair blog site. Subscribe for emailed updates.
Fleetwood Bounder, '94
Cummins Diesel, 190HP, 36.5' with 50HP LP boost.
Black Rock Lava Park, Nevada



Posted By: clydeturre on 03/13/12 02:18pm

Open the outside access door to fridge. At upper left there is a board
with 4 wires and a red led bulb. That indicates the latest fix. I just had
that recall done.


Posted By: bsimonds on 03/13/12 02:54pm

I had a recall done on mine about a year ago. There is the board with the red light mentioned above and a yellow tag the says, "Retrofitted with thermal sensor #R-010. Is this the latest?


Bill Simonds
'99 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom
330HP "Yellow" motor
'94 K5 Blazer 4X4 toad



Posted By: gotsmart on 03/13/12 03:18pm

...and I've been waiting for my N621 (or N623RT, depending upon which sticker I read) to die so that I can have a reason to replace it with something nice.

If it ain't broke, then don't fix it....

After reading this thread, I'm having seconds thoughts on wishing for it's demise.


2005 Cruise America 28R (Four Winds 28R) on a 2004 Ford E450 SD 6.8L V10 4R100
2009 smart fortwo Passion with Roadmaster "Falcon 2" towbar & tail light kit - pictures


Posted By: pigman1 on 03/13/12 05:10pm

After 2 new Amish cooling units and replacing just about everything else that could be replaced, we now enjoy a Kitchen Aid 2 door 21 cu.ft. One caution though, I have to be very careful with the temp settings or my ice cream is just too hard to serve.

Should have done it when these clowns first started the drill. I will NEVER, NEVER, EVER have another Norcold Fridge.

John


Pigman & Piglady
2013 Tiffin Allegro Bus 43' QGP
2011 Chevy Silverado 1500
BlueOx Aventa LX Tow Bar
SMI Air Force One toad brake
Street Atlas USA Plus


Posted By: JC2 on 03/13/12 05:15pm

JUrban wrote:

After 2 new Amish cooling units and replacing just about everything else that could be replaced, we now enjoy a Kitchen Aid 2 door 21 cu.ft. One caution though, I have to be very careful with the temp settings or my ice cream is just too hard to serve.

Should have done it when these clowns first started the drill. I will NEVER, NEVER, EVER have another Norcold Fridge.

John


What was the "problem(s)" with the new Amish cooling units?


Posted By: Leewhiz on 03/13/12 06:57pm

Well after reading everyones comments, maybe I need to add a couple more batteries and get prepared to put in a RR. This is the second time with problems, loosing food again due to spoilage.


Posted By: Gator48 on 03/13/12 07:51pm

We have a Norcold in our coach, a 2006 Itasca Horizon. I am not looking for problems, but if they come......How in the hell do you get a residential refrigerator inside of a motorhome?

Am I missing something or is it some sort of David Copperfield Magic?


Posted By: Jim@HiTek on 03/13/12 08:33pm

Usually, you remove the front windshield to get a residential refer inside.


Posted By: pigman1 on 03/13/12 08:55pm

First Amish unit I did myself and it went for about 6-7 months. Then refrig side temps started climbing and wouldn't hold below 50 then 55 then 60. Freezer was OK, at +5 to + 15. The second Amish unit (replaced under warranty was replaced in Tucson by a refrigeration professional (in case I was the problem). It lasted from March to September when we were on the way down from Alaska. Then temps got to 70, but the freezer stayed below 32. That was all she wrote. As I said, I replaced thermistors, boards, plugs, rebuilt the compartment EXACTLY to size specs, added fans, and on and on and on.

We removed the driver side window and the doors on the KitchenAid and it went right in. Had to pull the driver seat, but that was only 4 bolts. DW and I did the work alone. We're both 70. Lifted it from the roof trusses in the barn with a deer lift, and slid it in on 2x4's. I had to rebuild the compartment to fit to the right size, but that was just carpentry. We did do a LOT of measuring of the hole we had to put it into before we bought that unit, and also the window size. We did add 2 additional batteries. A good project. Took about 2 weeks once I had all the parts and pieces.

John


Posted By: John & Angela on 03/13/12 08:57pm

Jim@HiTek wrote:

Usually, you remove the front windshield to get a residential refer inside.


Yep. Its not that bad. In our case we had a cracked windshield that needed to be replaced anyway but talking to a couple others they paid between 150 and 200 bucks for re and re of the front windshield.

We recently did a few weeks dry camping with the new whirlpool and were happy with its performance. The inverter took the extra 150 watts of load without a problem and the extra generator usage (maybe 20 to 30 minutes per day) was not a problem.

We would never own a coach without a residential fridge again.


2003 Revolution 40C Class A. 2002 Vanguard 22 foot Class C. Diesel smart car as a Toad on a smart car trailer or pulling a 2009 Timeout Tent Trailer.

Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take but rather by the moments that take our breath away.


Posted By: RayChez on 03/13/12 10:10pm

JUrban wrote:

After 2 new Amish cooling units and replacing just about everything else that could be replaced, we now enjoy a Kitchen Aid 2 door 21 cu.ft. One caution though, I have to be very careful with the temp settings or my ice cream is just too hard to serve.

Should have done it when these clowns first started the drill. I will NEVER, NEVER, EVER have another Norcold Fridge.

John


Well, this all just fine if you have shore power on all the time. Like for me it would work because we belong to private preserves where we have shore power all the time, BUT! what would concern me on a residential refrigerator is when you dry camp out with no shore power. I have four six volt house batteries and a 3000 watt inverter. Wouldn't that type of refrigerator run my batteries down overnight? Or on long drives with the inverter running, would the batteries drain down or would I have to keep an eye on the Heart interface panel and start the generator every so often.


Posted By: wingtraveler on 03/14/12 02:30pm

RayChez wrote:

JUrban wrote:

After 2 new Amish cooling units and replacing just about everything else that could be replaced, we now enjoy a Kitchen Aid 2 door 21 cu.ft. One caution though, I have to be very careful with the temp settings or my ice cream is just too hard to serve.

Should have done it when these clowns first started the drill. I will NEVER, NEVER, EVER have another Norcold Fridge.

John


Well, this all just fine if you have shore power on all the time. Like for me it would work because we belong to private preserves where we have shore power all the time, BUT! what would concern me on a residential refrigerator is when you dry camp out with no shore power. I have four six volt house batteries and a 3000 watt inverter. Wouldn't that type of refrigerator run my batteries down overnight? Or on long drives with the inverter running, would the batteries drain down or would I have to keep an eye on the Heart interface panel and start the generator every so often.


John the new refrigerators use less power than the Norcold you already have. I called Samsung and talked to the engineering department and was told on the 21 cu ft it only drew 1.5 amps avg per hour. It was significantly less than the nameplate running amps. Don't quote me on the number as my memory might be a little off BUT it was considerably less than the Norcold. Running 120v through the inverter though ups the usage especially low draws on a large inverter. The loss could be as high as 50% in this case, which would change the numbers. The closer you are to running the inverter "Full Output" the closer you are to the manufacturers stated loss. If I install a RR I will install a separate 750W inverter and solar panel just for the frige along with 2 more batteries to increase my overall capacity.


Posted By: Southwind98 on 03/14/12 02:31pm

MSHappyCamper wrote:

Also, does anyone know what the blue thingy is with two clear plastic tubes attached (one of which is broken) in the picture below?



Icemaker line


Will & Michelle
2008 Fleetwood Bounder 38P
2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited
1990 Jeep Wrangler



Posted By: mccsix on 03/14/12 02:36pm

The blue thingy is the ice maker water solenoid valve, at the other end should be a shut off valve (or capped off) which is why you're not pouring water out out of the broken line.


Posted By: pigman1 on 03/14/12 03:31pm

wingtraveler wrote:

RayChez wrote:

JUrban wrote:

After 2 new Amish cooling units and replacing just about everything else that could be replaced, we now enjoy a Kitchen Aid 2 door 21 cu.ft. One caution though, I have to be very careful with the temp settings or my ice cream is just too hard to serve.

Should have done it when these clowns first started the drill. I will NEVER, NEVER, EVER have another Norcold Fridge.

John


Well, this all just fine if you have shore power on all the time. Like for me it would work because we belong to private preserves where we have shore power all the time, BUT! what would concern me on a residential refrigerator is when you dry camp out with no shore power. I have four six volt house batteries and a 3000 watt inverter. Wouldn't that type of refrigerator run my batteries down overnight? Or on long drives with the inverter running, would the batteries drain down or would I have to keep an eye on the Heart interface panel and start the generator every so often.


John the new refrigerators use less power than the Norcold you already have. I called Samsung and talked to the engineering department and was told on the 21 cu ft it only drew 1.5 amps avg per hour. It was significantly less than the nameplate running amps. Don't quote me on the number as my memory might be a little off BUT it was considerably less than the Norcold. Running 120v through the inverter though ups the usage especially low draws on a large inverter. The loss could be as high as 50% in this case, which would change the numbers. The closer you are to running the inverter "Full Output" the closer you are to the manufacturers stated loss. If I install a RR I will install a separate 750W inverter and solar panel just for the frige along with 2 more batteries to increase my overall capacity.
Your point about the power consumption on the Norcold is somewhat misleading. I believe the plate power you see is when the Norcold only runs on AC. Also, be somewhat cautious with the Samsungs and others that use new digital technology for their controller. The price of that board will flat out water your eyes, and the continuous changing of power supplies from Generator to inverter to plug in is not too kind to the boards. The Engineering departments wouldn't talk to me about using a fridge in an RV. "Not a house" was the best I could get. The KitchenAid uses a $30 relay and capacitor. When you get a dedicated inverter, check out the start current required (locked rotor current draw), not the run current. I had 2 small inverters self destruct before I got smart.

Regardles though, our system works just fine boondocking. We spent 4 weeks in the weeds this winter at Quartzsite, Imperial Dam and Death Valley. The 4 solar panels will make that even easier, but the present system is just great.

John


Posted By: wingtraveler on 03/14/12 04:14pm

JUrban wrote:

wingtraveler wrote:

RayChez wrote:

JUrban wrote:

After 2 new Amish cooling units and replacing just about everything else that could be replaced, we now enjoy a Kitchen Aid 2 door 21 cu.ft. One caution though, I have to be very careful with the temp settings or my ice cream is just too hard to serve.

Should have done it when these clowns first started the drill. I will NEVER, NEVER, EVER have another Norcold Fridge.

John


Well, this all just fine if you have shore power on all the time. Like for me it would work because we belong to private preserves where we have shore power all the time, BUT! what would concern me on a residential refrigerator is when you dry camp out with no shore power. I have four six volt house batteries and a 3000 watt inverter. Wouldn't that type of refrigerator run my batteries down overnight? Or on long drives with the inverter running, would the batteries drain down or would I have to keep an eye on the Heart interface panel and start the generator every so often.


John the new refrigerators use less power than the Norcold you already have. I called Samsung and talked to the engineering department and was told on the 21 cu ft it only drew 1.5 amps avg per hour. It was significantly less than the nameplate running amps. Don't quote me on the number as my memory might be a little off BUT it was considerably less than the Norcold. Running 120v through the inverter though ups the usage especially low draws on a large inverter. The loss could be as high as 50% in this case, which would change the numbers. The closer you are to running the inverter "Full Output" the closer you are to the manufacturers stated loss. If I install a RR I will install a separate 750W inverter and solar panel just for the frige along with 2 more batteries to increase my overall capacity.
Your point about the power consumption on the Norcold is somewhat misleading. I believe the plate power you see is when the Norcold only runs on AC. Also, be somewhat cautious with the Samsungs and others that use new digital technology for their controller. The price of that board will flat out water your eyes, and the continuous changing of power supplies from Generator to inverter to plug in is not too kind to the boards. The Engineering departments wouldn't talk to me about using a fridge in an RV. "Not a house" was the best I could get. The KitchenAid uses a $30 relay and capacitor. When you get a dedicated inverter, check out the start current required (locked rotor current draw), not the run current. I had 2 small inverters self destruct before I got smart.

Regardles though, our system works just fine boondocking. We spent 4 weeks in the weeds this winter at Quartzsite, Imperial Dam and Death Valley. The 4 solar panels will make that even easier, but the present system is just great.

John


Don't mean to mislead anyone. As I said don't quote me on the exact numbers as I don't feel like looking them all up. My memory of the Norcold usage is 3.5 amps on 120V and 5,5 amps on 12 volts, hey maybe it is reversed. I have a meter on my coach that tells me exactly how many Kw I am using at any time and the Norcold runs about .4 Kw when running (almost continuously.) That is 3.3 amps on 120V. As a matter of fact that is what it is running right now. If I shut down the Norcold the .4 Kw drops off sooooo what can I say!

As far as the inverter is concerned Samsung spec'ed out the inverters for the RV industry and they told them to use a 750 Kw. The first installations I saw on a Monaco in 2010 had a 750W inverter, 2 separate batteries for the frig (don't remember the make but was about 21-22 cu ft) and a solar panel and solar controller (15Amp???) to keep the batteries charged.

With the setup they used the unit was always running off the inverter. There wasn't any switching except to shut off the unit when temps were satisfied.

I don't doubt that the controllers are expensive. All new technology is expensive. The new scroll compressors are very energy efficient and do not draw the start amps the old ones do. As an example I can start both my a/c's on a 30 amp service without a problem at the same time and the breakers are not delay A/c breakers but regular household type. When running the a/c's draw 25 amps total. I have not placed an ampprobe on the lines to accurately measure the draw but the scrolls just don't draw as much. I also have to assume from your post the relay and capacitor you are speaking of is a start relay and cap for an old style compressor. Am only guessing and not arguing with you as I have never opened one up.

All the manufacturers are going to RR but with one inverter (to save money) and as far as I am concerned it IS NOT the way to go. (JMHO) All the energy savings you see with the RR will be used up running a large capacity inverter at low consumption and high internal loss if the inverter runs like mine does. Of course another person can use entirely differently.

* This post was edited 03/14/12 08:29pm by wingtraveler *


Posted By: Rickyrocket on 03/14/12 08:21pm

I dont think you'll get by w/750 w inverter the start up surge is probably greater than that,I tryed a 600w and it wouldn't start but went to 1000w and no prob.& that is w/ a 4.5 cf Frigidare


Posted By: 03allegrobay on 08/19/12 03:33pm

My Rev E just failed. I jumped it and pulled it out so I could continue on my way until I find Rev F if such a beast exists. Not as much fun when the trust is gone!


Posted By: sjholt on 08/19/12 04:59pm

I read a rumor that if you take a magnet and wave it around the top and sides of the box- it will reset it and make the red light go out?
Worth a try?


Skip
1996 32' Monaco Windsor DP
Cummins 5.9L 230+ HP
5 Airbags in front- 4 in back


Posted By: wingtraveler on 08/19/12 06:03pm

As an update to my original post. I installed a 24.5 Cu. ft Whirlpool Gold in the same spot as the Norcold. Also installed 2 -300W grid tie solar panels. The maximum the refrigerator has ever pulled even on startup is less than 300W, usually runs less than 1/2 that amt.

I started a blog http://mcblog.mccanna.ws with notes on all the installs and some pictures.

From my experience now I would install a 750W inverter.

* This post was edited 08/19/12 07:39pm by wingtraveler *


Posted By: Leewhiz on 08/19/12 06:27pm

The rumor that you can use a magnet and reset it, was confirmed by Norcold as they sent out a notice to many authorized repair centers. This was sent out after Rev E experienced a number of failures this summer in the very hot areas of the country.

Also, the Norcold 4 door refrigerator has 2 electric heating rods to run the boiler when you are plugged in. They each use 225 watts for a total of 450 watts, or 3.75 amps.

Lastly, I also replaced my Norcold with a 21.7 cu ft Whirlpool refrigerator several weeks ago. Installed a dedicated 1000 watt Xantrex pure sine inverter to run it through a transfer switch. The refrigerator has a plate that says the maximum power is 7.2 amps, but it is using considerably less at about .6 amps. Oh and one other thing - it truely works, my ice cream is now haaard!


Posted By: Gale Hawkins on 08/19/12 09:23pm

Performance wise the home model has an RV frig beat on all points except it will not run on propane.


Posted By: NavyMustang1 on 08/25/12 10:57pm

Leewhiz wrote:

The rumor that you can use a magnet and reset it, was confirmed by Norcold as they sent out a notice to many authorized repair centers. This was sent out after Rev E experienced a number of failures this summer in the very hot areas of the country.

Also, the Norcold 4 door refrigerator has 2 electric heating rods to run the boiler when you are plugged in. They each use 225 watts for a total of 450 watts, or 3.75 amps.

Lastly, I also replaced my Norcold with a 21.7 cu ft Whirlpool refrigerator several weeks ago. Installed a dedicated 1000 watt Xantrex pure sine inverter to run it through a transfer switch. The refrigerator has a plate that says the maximum power is 7.2 amps, but it is using considerably less at about .6 amps. Oh and one other thing - it truely works, my ice cream is now haaard!

Leewhiz is my new HERO!! I also had the infamous continuous red light on the black box (REV D). Happened after servicing my batteries. I was getting very frustrated after talking to a few shops and getting the standard "It'll take 10 days for the part to come in and another 2 weeks for us to get to your rig" answer. After reading your remarks I took the strongest magnet in the house and tryed it. IT WORKED!! Thanks Leewhiz!

* This post was edited 08/25/12 11:07pm by NavyMustang1 *


Posted By: ryanallie1 on 08/26/12 06:25am

Hi All.

I guess we have been very lucky, as we have never had to put up with any of this B.S., as we have been RV'ers for the past 45+ years now. And every RV we have ever owned, has had a Dometic Fridge in it.

For us anyways, we would only buy any RV with a Dometic Fridge in it only.

You got to feel for those RV'ers, who have had to put up with this issues. It seems that Norcold will never get this Fixed Right.

I think if we did have one of those time bombs in our Motorhome, it would also be time to put a real House-Hold Fridge in it, and be done with it.

Look at all the "Down-Time", and "Lost of Use", RV'ers have had to put up with, and the worries and the troubles. Its just not "exceptable" for any Manufactor to be able to get away with this kind of Shoddy Products. Shame, Shame, Shame on them.

We, Hope, all of you with the problem Frdiges get them fixed, and fixed for good this time.

Good Luck. Happy Travels. Dan & Jill


1998-33.5 Rexhall, Rexair SL. 460 EFI. F-53. 7.3 MPG. TST TPMS. HWH Levelers. 5.5G Gen. Convection/Microwave Water Purifier/Water Softner. 2 A/C's. Alarm Systems. Honda EU2000i's W/Kit. Steer-Safe. CR-V W/SMI System. FMCA #F414397 Nam-Vet, 66-67-68&70-71



Posted By: RayChez on 08/26/12 11:59am

Had my 1200 LRIM for ten years now and it is still working good. Set it at five and it stays at 34 degrees. I guess I got one of the the good one's. But if it ever goes out, I will seriously consider the Amish part to replace the Norcold.


Posted By: JTHarley on 08/26/12 12:17pm

This borderlines on CRIMINAL!!!!

I have a residential fridge in my new motorhome but if I where buying a motorhome I would insist if it had a Norcold unit in it that it be removed before I purchase. How many fires do we need to have before the industry says enough? How many recalls are acceptable? The big question is when will the industry say ENOUGH and not put these units in coaches.


Jim , MJ & Spirit of Sambuca Bear
2005 Prevost Royale XLII
Jeep Sahara Toad


Posted By: dougrainer on 08/26/12 03:22pm

JTHarley wrote:

This borderlines on CRIMINAL!!!!

I have a residential fridge in my new motorhome but if I where buying a motorhome I would insist if it had a Norcold unit in it that it be removed before I purchase. How many fires do we need to have before the industry says enough? How many recalls are acceptable? The big question is when will the industry say ENOUGH and not put these units in coaches.


RIGHT. Click this link. Lets get ALL Residential AND RV refers banned.
I guess residential are NOT as safe as every one thinks. Doug


Name of Product: Maytag®, Magic Chef®, Performa by Maytag® and Crosley® brand refrigerators

Units: About 46,000 (1.6 million units were previously recalled March 2009)


http://www.dailyfinance.com/2009/08/25/r........call-expands-as-more-fires-are-reported/

https://repair.maytag.com/prjjck/refrigerator.jsp


Posted By: JC2 on 08/26/12 04:08pm

JTHarley wrote:

This borderlines on CRIMINAL!!!!

I have a residential fridge in my new motorhome but if I where buying a motorhome I would insist if it had a Norcold unit in it that it be removed before I purchase. How many fires do we need to have before the industry says enough? How many recalls are acceptable? The big question is when will the industry say ENOUGH and not put these units in coaches.


I agree. We passed on (2) previous coaches before our current one,(has a Dometic NDR 1062) because the dealer wasn't willing to swap the NoCold's for an Amish unit fix. They stated that their fridges had the latest recall boxes and were safe, unfortunately for them I subscribe to theory that if a salesmans lips are moving, he's probably lying. Seriously, I will not have a Norcold in anything I own, period.


Posted By: nemo45 on 08/26/12 04:20pm

NavyMustang1 wrote:

Leewhiz wrote:

The rumor that you can use a magnet and reset it, was confirmed by Norcold as they sent out a notice to many authorized repair centers. This was sent out after Rev E experienced a number of failures this summer in the very hot areas of the country.

Also, the Norcold 4 door refrigerator has 2 electric heating rods to run the boiler when you are plugged in. They each use 225 watts for a total of 450 watts, or 3.75 amps.

Lastly, I also replaced my Norcold with a 21.7 cu ft Whirlpool refrigerator several weeks ago. Installed a dedicated 1000 watt Xantrex pure sine inverter to run it through a transfer switch. The refrigerator has a plate that says the maximum power is 7.2 amps, but it is using considerably less at about .6 amps. Oh and one other thing - it truely works, my ice cream is now haaard!

Leewhiz is my new HERO!! I also had the infamous continuous red light on the black box (REV D). Happened after servicing my batteries. I was getting very frustrated after talking to a few shops and getting the standard "It'll take 10 days for the part to come in and another 2 weeks for us to get to your rig" answer. After reading your remarks I took the strongest magnet in the house and tryed it. IT WORKED!! Thanks Leewhiz!

So, what do you have to do with the magnet to reset it? Mine just went when my batteries went down to nothing while I was gone for a week. I am now bypassing the black box.


Don Niemeyer
2006 Gulf Stream Tour Master T40A
2011 Chevy Equinox LT1 Toad


Posted By: dougrainer on 08/26/12 07:21pm

nemo45 wrote:

NavyMustang1 wrote:

Leewhiz wrote:

The rumor that you can use a magnet and reset it, was confirmed by Norcold as they sent out a notice to many authorized repair centers. This was sent out after Rev E experienced a number of failures this summer in the very hot areas of the country.

Also, the Norcold 4 door refrigerator has 2 electric heating rods to run the boiler when you are plugged in. They each use 225 watts for a total of 450 watts, or 3.75 amps.

Lastly, I also replaced my Norcold with a 21.7 cu ft Whirlpool refrigerator several weeks ago. Installed a dedicated 1000 watt Xantrex pure sine inverter to run it through a transfer switch. The refrigerator has a plate that says the maximum power is 7.2 amps, but it is using considerably less at about .6 amps. Oh and one other thing - it truely works, my ice cream is now haaard!

Leewhiz is my new HERO!! I also had the infamous continuous red light on the black box (REV D). Happened after servicing my batteries. I was getting very frustrated after talking to a few shops and getting the standard "It'll take 10 days for the part to come in and another 2 weeks for us to get to your rig" answer. After reading your remarks I took the strongest magnet in the house and tryed it. IT WORKED!! Thanks Leewhiz!

So, what do you have to do with the magnet to reset it? Mine just went when my batteries went down to nothing while I was gone for a week. I am now bypassing the black box.


SINCE the magnet trick HAS been posted, I will give the full info. On the front of the recall box you place a medium powerful magnet and that will pull the trip point open again and restore the recall box. Norcold has known this and according to Norcold will work on all recall boxes. They do NOT want retail customers to do this as they want the refer checked and verified that it did NOT trip due to overheating with the potential to rupture the cooling unit. The BAD news is this---Norcold will NOT pay to have a Service Center do this procedure and check out. The customer must pay the .5 hour check out fee and the resetting of the box. IF the box fails again you must pay again and if it fails the 3rd time and did NOT trip from overheating, Norcold will pay for a complete recall kit changeout under Norcold's warranty. They will NOT authorize a recall kit changeout unless it has failed 2 times. Doug


Posted By: 2inAlabama on 08/26/12 07:36pm

How far back do these problems with Norcold go? A friend is considering buying a '98 Newmar Mountain Aire which I think has a Norcold fridge. Just wondering if I should alert him.


Just DH & DW
Shopping for a Foretravel U320 42 ft



Posted By: RayChez on 08/26/12 07:51pm

2inAlabama wrote:

How far back do these problems with Norcold go? A friend is considering buying a '98 Newmar Mountain Aire which I think has a Norcold fridge. Just wondering if I should alert him.



LOL! Well if the Norcold has been in the coach since 1998? Don't you think it might be time for a new one. Refrigerators do not last for ever. If you get ten years of service, I think you have gotten your monies worth.

Don't you think so?


Posted By: dougrainer on 08/26/12 08:23pm

2inAlabama wrote:

How far back do these problems with Norcold go? A friend is considering buying a '98 Newmar Mountain Aire which I think has a Norcold fridge. Just wondering if I should alert him.


ALL 1200 4 door Norcolds are under the recall. Usually, Newmar installed Dometic in the MA back then. Doug


Posted By: NavyMustang1 on 08/26/12 08:41pm

With rig plugged into shore power I gained access to my black box. Then moved the magnet around the case of the black box (I rested the magnet on the plastic box itself). When the magnet passed over the top of the box I heard the contacts click and the red light went out. It did take a few passes over the box but the process took approximately 1 minute. The magnet I used came from an old computer hard drive and is relatively strong.

Originally my light came on after I had serviced my (dead) batteries.


Posted By: NavyMustang1 on 08/26/12 08:42pm

nemo45 wrote:

NavyMustang1 wrote:

Leewhiz wrote:

The rumor that you can use a magnet and reset it, was confirmed by Norcold as they sent out a notice to many authorized repair centers. This was sent out after Rev E experienced a number of failures this summer in the very hot areas of the country.

Also, the Norcold 4 door refrigerator has 2 electric heating rods to run the boiler when you are plugged in. They each use 225 watts for a total of 450 watts, or 3.75 amps.

Lastly, I also replaced my Norcold with a 21.7 cu ft Whirlpool refrigerator several weeks ago. Installed a dedicated 1000 watt Xantrex pure sine inverter to run it through a transfer switch. The refrigerator has a plate that says the maximum power is 7.2 amps, but it is using considerably less at about .6 amps. Oh and one other thing - it truely works, my ice cream is now haaard!

Leewhiz is my new HERO!! I also had the infamous continuous red light on the black box (REV D). Happened after servicing my batteries. I was getting very frustrated after talking to a few shops and getting the standard "It'll take 10 days for the part to come in and another 2 weeks for us to get to your rig" answer. After reading your remarks I took the strongest magnet in the house and tryed it. IT WORKED!! Thanks Leewhiz!

So, what do you have to do with the magnet to reset it? Mine just went when my batteries went down to nothing while I was gone for a week. I am now bypassing the black box.


With rig plugged into shore power I gained access to my black box. Then moved the magnet around the case of the black box (I rested the magnet on the plastic box itself). When the magnet passed over the top of the box I heard the contacts click and the red light went out. It did take a few passes over the box but the process took approximately 1 minute. The magnet I used came from an old computer hard drive and is relatively strong.

Originally my light came on after I had serviced my (dead) batteries.


Posted By: NavyMustang1 on 08/26/12 08:59pm

NavyMustang1 wrote:


Originally my light came on after I had serviced my (dead) batteries.



Posted By: BobGed on 03/14/12 12:10am

Jim@HiTek wrote:

Usually, you remove the front windshield to get a residential refer inside.

In some cases they can come through a side window.


2009 Tiffin Phaeton 40QSH
2014 Jeep Cherokee Limited


Posted By: John & Angela on 03/14/12 08:41am

RayChez wrote:

JUrban wrote:

After 2 new Amish cooling units and replacing just about everything else that could be replaced, we now enjoy a Kitchen Aid 2 door 21 cu.ft. One caution though, I have to be very careful with the temp settings or my ice cream is just too hard to serve.

Should have done it when these clowns first started the drill. I will NEVER, NEVER, EVER have another Norcold Fridge.

John


Well, this all just fine if you have shore power on all the time. Like for me it would work because we belong to private preserves where we have shore power all the time, BUT! what would concern me on a residential refrigerator is when you dry camp out with no shore power. I have four six volt house batteries and a 3000 watt inverter. Wouldn't that type of refrigerator run my batteries down overnight? Or on long drives with the inverter running, would the batteries drain down or would I have to keep an eye on the Heart interface panel and start the generator every so often.


Looking at your signature and the coach you have, for a simple overnighter you wouldn't have any problem. For longer dry camping times count on running your generator an extra 15 to 20 minutes in the morning and an extra 15 to 20 minutes at night. That will pretty much take care of it. Residential fridges don't use a lot of power these days. Or throw a 240 watt solar panel on the roof. That'll work...if its sunny.


Posted By: pigman1 on 03/14/12 09:31am

RayChez wrote:

JUrban wrote:

After 2 new Amish cooling units and replacing just about everything else that could be replaced, we now enjoy a Kitchen Aid 2 door 21 cu.ft. One caution though, I have to be very careful with the temp settings or my ice cream is just too hard to serve.

Should have done it when these clowns first started the drill. I will NEVER, NEVER, EVER have another Norcold Fridge.

John


Well, this all just fine if you have shore power on all the time. Like for me it would work because we belong to private preserves where we have shore power all the time, BUT! what would concern me on a residential refrigerator is when you dry camp out with no shore power. I have four six volt house batteries and a 3000 watt inverter. Wouldn't that type of refrigerator run my batteries down overnight? Or on long drives with the inverter running, would the batteries drain down or would I have to keep an eye on the Heart interface panel and start the generator every so often.
I understand your concerns, but I think you're being a bit pessimistic. We found with 6 6V bats, we lose about .2 (2 tenths) volt on the bank overnight. That goes to .3 or .4V with the heat on all night. We did find a considerable electrical overhead on the main 3000w inverter, even when we shut down everything we could think of. To remedy this, we put in a dedicated inverter just for the fridge, and run it with the house inverter shut down whenever we can. We boondock a lot, for a week or longer, and find we needed the generator for about 45 minutes AM & PM, and this is with an hour or two TV and checking email and doing about an hour on Hughes Net Internet. We are in the process of adding three 140W solar panels to the 120W panel we already have on the roof. As to how the rig charges when running, we've found all batteries are fully charged (at FLOAT) after an 8 hour run. This is when starting at 12.3 or 12.4 in the morning. Of course this will all depend on how electric conscious you are when operating your rig. We all live differently and you need to fine tune your system to how you live.

John


Posted By: Jim@HiTek on 03/14/12 09:59am

One of the other benefits of new modern residential refers is the excellent insulation they have now, if you choose a high efficiency unit. I can imagine shutting off the refer at bedtime and having it not loose more then 3-4 degrees by morning.


Posted By: doc brown on 03/14/12 10:08am

Jim@HiTek wrote:

One of the other benefits of new modern residential refers is the excellent insulation they have now, if you choose a high efficiency unit. I can imagine shutting off the refer at bedtime and having it not loose more then 3-4 degrees by morning.


That's what I did when I dry camped, but now I have Auto Gen Start so the fridge is always on. However, the AGS rarely kicks on at night due to the low draw.


Posted By: MSHappyCampers on 03/14/12 02:03pm

JUrban wrote:

After 2 new Amish cooling units and replacing just about everything else that could be replaced, we now enjoy a Kitchen Aid 2 door 21 cu.ft. One caution though, I have to be very careful with the temp settings or my ice cream is just too hard to serve.

Should have done it when these clowns first started the drill. I will NEVER, NEVER, EVER have another Norcold Fridge.

John


I was getting ready to buy the Amish cooling unit. I thought from all the reports that these things were bullet proof! Have others had problems with them??


Joe & Annette

2002 Monaco Windsor 40PBT



Posted By: MSHappyCampers on 03/14/12 02:13pm

clydeturre wrote:

Open the outside access door to fridge. At upper left there is a board
with 4 wires and a red led bulb. That indicates the latest fix. I just had
that recall done.


I'm confused! When I bought my coach about a month ago I called Norcold with the model and serial number and they told me that the latest recall has been installed. I just opened the door and there is no board with 4 wires and red LED anywhere that I can see. There is a yellow tag pictured below which is attached to a green wire with one end connected to the gas cutoff valve and the other end is loose!

Also, does anyone know what the blue thingy is with two clear plastic tubes attached (one of which is broken) in the picture below?




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