Tighten as instructed and turn the wheel in the most common direction of travel. Then loosen the nut without turning the wheel. When the nut is loose turn it inward until it is finger tight. If the nut does not line up with the hole loosen it to the next available slot. Done deal
BTC
Wow! Thanks. Seems the "best" advice is "In your case I would go for the half slot and bias the nut hard against the cotter pin. If you are kind of anal, what I do for race car bearing nuts with the same problem is take the nut and rub it on some sandpaper until I get the exact clearance I need." Obviously, I am a nut, and if it seems its going to worry me the whole trip, I'll try the sandpaper idea. Last trip out I ran over a shovel on I-95 and blew out a tire and tore a whole in the undercarriage. Hey, stuff happens.
Tighten as instructed and turn the wheel in the most common direction of travel. Then loosen the nut without turning the wheel. When the nut is loose turn it inward until it is finger tight. If the nut does not line up with the hole loosen it to the next available slot. Done deal
BTC
This is the only right way too do it.
Now, go do it your way,......but when your wheels fall off, don't come a cryin here !
Rich
'01 31 ft Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 9245 conv, 400 watt inv, 2 12v batts, ammeters, KingDome/sat, Two Oly Cat heaters, and towing a '05 Jeep Liberty, or sometimes towing a Lowe bass boat.
Timeking wrote: Following Alko's instructions, the 3500lb axel wheel bearing is torqued down to 20 ft-lbs while turning, then loosened without rotating the hub, then torqued down to 7 ft-lbs.
Timeking wrote: Following Alko's instructions, the 3500lb axel wheel bearing is torqued down to 20 ft-lbs while turning, then loosened without rotating the hub, then torqued down to 7 ft-lbs.
Is that 7 inch-pounds? (finger tight)
No 7 ft-lb. From here but any "new mechanic" should understand all the brake/hub information as it all interrelates or the brakes don't work properly and the bearings don't last. Al KO Page 20
Al Ko Axle wrote: 1. To get the proper “feel” for bearing clearance, the spindle nut
must turn freely on the spindle and the brake must be readjusted so
that there is no drag on the drum.
2. While slowly turning the hub/drum tighten the spindle nut to
approximately 20 ft/lbs then loosen. This is especially important if new
bearing races have been installed.
3. With drum stationary (do not rotate), retighten the spindle nut
to 7 ft/lbs (zero clearance) then back off one slot (0.001"-0.010" end
play) and align cotter pin hole. Insert cotter pin and bend both ends
over end of spindle. Install grease cap.
Tighten as instructed and turn the wheel in the most common direction of travel. Then loosen the nut without turning the wheel. When the nut is loose turn it inward until it is finger tight. If the nut does not line up with the hole loosen it to the next available slot. Done deal
BTC
So along comes Al-Ko with their high tech 20/7 lb torque wrench instruction that muddies the waters. Every other guide I can find basically says to snug up the nut, turn the wheel a couple of times, then loosen the nut and turn it inward hand tight, just like the above poster stated.
2002 Keystone Cougar 286, 8,400lbs loaded, pulled with a 2004 F150 Supercrew, 5.4, 3.73 gears. Retired and enjoying life
7 ft.lbs.is nearly no torque, IMO. You could probably not back it off from that point and if the bearing is well greased, it would run perfectly. 1 slot on the nut is not going to be a problem. I've always tended to run them just a little tight because wear and very small, inherent, misalingment means that the bearing is true to the axle when in use, if fastened towards tight. I bet there are a lot of guys with just the opposite opinion.
When all said and done you want a very tiny bit of clearence at the bearing. Why? Because you need room for a film of grease to get between the rollers and the race way. Too tight and you are riding on metal to metal contact.
Man, it's probably been over 20yrs since I messed with wheel bearings.
I used to use some method that went about like this:
Spin the wheel untill it starts to slow down, back off a 1/4 turn and put in the cotter pin.
Wish it hadn't been so long ago as I'm not completely sure on it now... It always worked well.
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