Hi guys, my husband and i are toy hauler virgins. We have a 2005 Ford Lariat F2500 diesel truck- short bed,and have purchased a Road Warrior RW 30C Axle Weight 7,000 lbs. Dry Weight 12,322 lbs. Gross Vehicle Wt Rating (GVWR) 14,000 lbs. Hitch Weight 2,900 lbs. I am trying to educate myself before making a decision on hitches and need some help as i totally do not understand the jargon ( YET! ). Can someone help!!!! Thanks in advance.
Quote: --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi guys, my husband and i are toy hauler virgins. We have a 2005 Ford Lariat F2500 diesel truck- short bed,and have purchased a Road Warrior RW 30C Axle Weight 7,000 lbs. Dry Weight 12,322 lbs. Gross Vehicle Wt Rating (GVWR) 14,000 lbs. Hitch Weight 2,900 lbs. I am trying to educate myself before making a decision on hitches and need some help as i totally do not understand the jargon ( YET! ). Can someone help!!!! Thanks in advance.
You may have more than a jargon issue. That is a lot of pin weight for the three quarter ton short bed truck. Add the weight of the hitch at around 200-250 pounds and you are at more than 3000 pounds just for the toy hauler. How much payload is left over for people, dogs, supplies, bbq, tools, lawn chairs, and everything else you carry in the truck?
'05 Dodge Cummins 4x4 dually 3500 white quadcab auto long bed.
'09 299bhs Tango.
Get a 16K sliding hitch for that short bed. Reese or PullRite are good brands.
Then add some air bags to raise the rear end of truck back up.......won't help with being overloaded but they will get the rig back up level.
Check the tires for the MAX LOAD/PSI Rating........you need to pump them up. Might not be enough tire.
RV:2012 Montana 3625RE Quad Slide SKP#108921 TV:2004.5 Dodge Dually 3500 HD Favorite Quote:''Life's tough, pilgrim, and it's even tougher if you're stupid.''-- John Wayne
OK, bad info above. First off, you do not need a slider for your short bed. The whole point of the Titanium front end of the 30C is to be able to pull it without a slider. A slider will only add cost and weight for something totally unnecessary for your setup. Second, from 1999-2010, the F250 and F350 were identical other than the overload springs and taller spring blocks on the 350. You can easily swap the blocks as I did on my previous truck to the 4" 350 blocks for $80. You can also add airbags which will work just like an overload spring to keep you level. For our 30C we are using the Reese Elite 18K. As for your tires, they put the same E rated tires on all 250's and 350's. The only difference is they will often put a different sticker on the door jamb with different inflation recommendations. On my 09 250 they wanted 65 lbs at all four corners. On my new 350 they have the rears at 80 and the fronts at 65. I would make sure you have your rears at 80 when hauling your trailer. On my 09 I backed the pressure back down to 65 for the off season to make the ride less jarring. I would do the same on my 350 but TPMS would have a fit. Should have selected the hidden TPMS delete option, but didn't know about it when ordering...
* This post was
edited 03/15/12 07:50am by taken *
Quote: Hi guys, my husband and i are toy hauler virgins. We have a 2005 Ford Lariat F2500 diesel truck- short bed,and have purchased a Road Warrior RW 30C Axle Weight 7,000 lbs. Dry Weight 12,322 lbs. Gross Vehicle Wt Rating (GVWR) 14,000 lbs. Hitch Weight 2,900 lbs. I am trying to educate myself before making a decision on hitches and need some help as i totally do not understand the jargon ( YET! ). Can someone help!!!! Thanks in advance.
Are you sure about the numbers? Dry weight is 12,300 and gross is 14,000, leaving you less than 1700 pounds for all your stuff?
Heartland has been using 14K GVWR for some reason, but it's really 16K. Newer 300C/30C have 16K on the tags, unless they are headed for CA in which case they keep it 14K!
You don't need a sliding hitch with your 30C. You should add air bags and be sure you have 3500+ lb rated tires on your truck. The 3/4ton trucks are marginal for this unit and some people are going to point that out. I have a 300C with a '06 Dodge 2500. It seems ok so far. I may trade up to a dually some day for peace of mind. The pin weight doesn't seem to be an issue for me, but I could appreciate the higher power engines and bigger brakes (with engine braking) on the new trucks, though!
-steve
2009 Northern Lite 9.6Q Classic
2012 Cyclone 300C
2006 Dodge Ram 2500 QC LB CTD 2WD for towing
2004 Ford F250 ExCab LB P/S 4WD for hauling
taken wrote: OK, bad info above. First off, you do not need a slider for your short bed. The whole point of the Titanium front end of the 30C is to be able to pull it without a slider. A slider will only add cost and weight for something totally unnecessary for your setup. Second, from 1999-2010, the F250 and F350 were identical other than the overload springs and taller spring blocks on the 350. You can easily swap the blocks as I did on my previous truck to the 4" 350 blocks for $80. You can also add airbags which will work just like an overload spring to keep you level. For our 30C we are using the Reese Elite 18K. As for your tires, they put the same E rated tires on all 250's and 350's. The only difference is they will often put a different sticker on the door jamb with different inflation recommendations. On my 09 250 they wanted 65 lbs at all four corners. On my new 350 they have the rears at 80 and the fronts at 65. I would make sure you have your rears at 80 when hauling your trailer. On my 09 I backed the pressure back down to 65 for the off season to make the ride less jarring. I would do the same on my 350 but TPMS would have a fit. Should have selected the hidden TPMS delete option, but didn't know about it when ordering...
Nothing wrong with the info above about the truck. That is alot of trailer for that truck.
You need to be specific when you say all 250s and 350s. Duallys are different than a SRW 350. Tires, axles, brakes etc.
Offline
