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Old George

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Posted: 03/16/12 07:58am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My first...

...post in this forum.

...night at an RV park in my new RV coming up.

What should a newbie to RV Park camping know?

mumkin

Minot ND USA

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Posted: 03/16/12 10:55am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I arrived in a big RV park with a new RV and only vaguely knew what was to be done. As a female, it was easy. There were plenty of other RVers around to help with any question that I had. As to initial hook-ups, the fellow that parked me was happy to help.


Mumkin
2011 LTV Libero


My Roadtrek

Tucson, AZ.

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Posted: 03/16/12 01:11pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What type of RV do you have? If its a Class B then you are in the correct forum, if not we can point you to the right forum.

McK

Arkansas

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Posted: 03/16/12 11:48am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Here are some links that may be useful:

Campground Owners' Concerns

New RVers

RV Camping Tips


Robert
2006 Sportsmobile Sprinter


1775

NY

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Posted: 03/16/12 03:46pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The important thing is to have what you will need to hook up. Fresh water hose (white hose made for drinking water)that will reach from your RV to the water spigot on the site. A water pressure regulator to put on the hose. Dump hose and connectors for your waste tanks. There are a variety of things to check the campground electrical outlet before you hook into it. You may want to sanitize the fresh water tanks before drinking out of them, if this is a new, from the factory RV. You could ask the dealer to do this for you before you take delivery (likely he will charge to do this). Have an extended reach butane lighter to light any propane pilot lights that may need lighting - some are self-starters and some need to be lit. Get a set if leveling blocks to put under your tires, if the campground site is not level. Bring a bubble level - the round ones work best as it will show you if you are off level in all directions at once. Also look for a spot inside your RV that is level to start with - usually the floor. (counters are not always installed level). If you are at a campground with cable TV then bring a coax cable long enough to run from your RV to the connection on the hook up post.

Before you leave for the campground find out the check in time. Most will not allow early check in without charging a fee. Do not hesitate to ask any of the RVs around you or the people in the office for help setting up for the first time. Most people that we have met at campgrounds are very friendly.

There is a lot to be found on the internet about hooking up an RV and also dumping your tanks. There are videos on You-Tube also. A good starter book is Idiots Guide to RVing. There is a lot of basic information there that explains all of the systems clearly and simply, as well as how to hook up and dump your tanks. Also check out the RVEducation101 website. There are many things common to all RV's regardless of Class and most apply to Class B's.

Use your first night out as an opportunity to test all of the systems on your RV. Make sure EVERYTHING works as it is supposed to.

Most important - enjoy yourself!

* This post was edited 03/16/12 03:55pm by 1775 *


Roadtrek 190 Popular 2011

Meryl and Me Hit the Road

Old George

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Posted: 03/16/12 07:55pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My Roadtrek wrote:

What type of RV do you have? If its a Class B then you are in the correct forum, if not we can point you to the right forum.


Class B. An upgraded Sprinter van.

Old George

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Posted: 03/16/12 08:02pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

1775 wrote:

The important thing is to have what you will need to hook up. Fresh water hose (white hose made for drinking water)that will reach from your RV to the water spigot on the site. A water pressure regulator to put on the hose. Dump hose and connectors for your waste tanks. There are a variety of things to check the campground electrical outlet before you hook into it. You may want to sanitize the fresh water tanks before drinking out of them, if this is a new, from the factory RV. You could ask the dealer to do this for you before you take delivery (likely he will charge to do this). Have an extended reach butane lighter to light any propane pilot lights that may need lighting - some are self-starters and some need to be lit. Get a set if leveling blocks to put under your tires, if the campground site is not level. Bring a bubble level - the round ones work best as it will show you if you are off level in all directions at once. Also look for a spot inside your RV that is level to start with - usually the floor. (counters are not always installed level). If you are at a campground with cable TV then bring a coax cable long enough to run from your RV to the connection on the hook up post.

Before you leave for the campground find out the check in time. Most will not allow early check in without charging a fee. Do not hesitate to ask any of the RVs around you or the people in the office for help setting up for the first time. Most people that we have met at campgrounds are very friendly.

There is a lot to be found on the internet about hooking up an RV and also dumping your tanks. There are videos on You-Tube also. A good starter book is Idiots Guide to RVing. There is a lot of basic information there that explains all of the systems clearly and simply, as well as how to hook up and dump your tanks. Also check out the RVEducation101 website. There are many things common to all RV's regardless of Class and most apply to Class B's.

Use your first night out as an opportunity to test all of the systems on your RV. Make sure EVERYTHING works as it is supposed to.

Most important - enjoy yourself!


Thank you. It was reassuring to discover that I have done pretty well so far. I have managed to fill the tank a couple of times. Slept "rough" (no hookups) and managed well. I found out that kneepads are a plus when emptying the black and gray water.

I have an onboard generator so don't really need a hookup but it is loud. I have run it for a half hour at a time to recharge. Hookup or generator running needed for air conditioning.

I have organized the storage areas two or three times.

I think I'm ready for my first park.

Horizon170

Jefferson, GA

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Posted: 03/17/12 12:03pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

George, Not sure what you have but most refrigerators need to be within a few degrees of level. Here are some levels that are available. Look at #29214 on the link. I stuck one to the left of my head on the vehicle for front to rear leveling and one on the dash for side to side leveling. That way there is no need to leave the drivers seat to check. They are particularly handy whin manuevering up leveling ramps or small inclines. Look at #29210 on the link also. That is good for insuring that your refer is level.
http://www.rvpartscenter.com/prodselect.asp?SID=8&DID=128&CID=166
One of these little plug ins is good to insure the campground electrical polarity is up to par. GE50542----the first one.
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=polarity+tester&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=3576660771&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1851944319593872104&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&ref=pd_sl_1mlf293if7_b
Use this to check the actual voltage. #1 on page.
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=polarity+tester&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=3576660771&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1851944319593872104&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&ref=pd_sl_1mlf293if7_b#/ref=nb_sb_noss/175-1100737-9205141?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=voltage+meter+plug+in+tester&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Avoltage+meter+plug+in+tester
I also use #13 to check RV generator output. Just plug into lighter socket for 12 volt.
Enjoy yourself.


Marvin

1775

NY

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Posted: 03/17/12 09:03pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Horizon170 wrote:

George, Not sure what you have but most refrigerators need to be within a few degrees of level. Here are some levels that are available. Look at #29214 on the link. I stuck one to the left of my head on the vehicle for front to rear leveling and one on the dash for side to side leveling. That way there is no need to leave the drivers seat to check. They are particularly handy whin manuevering up leveling ramps or small inclines.


If you are going to install levels like this make sure your RV is perfectly level when you do. We did this at the end of this past camping season, and did it in a campground where the site was spot on level. Many, despite the campground's claims, are not level. We got our Class B nice and level and then stuck a bubble level on the dash and one on the door- making sure that they read level before we pushed them on. Depending on the surface you are putting them on,the adhesive does not always hold. We had to screw the one on the door on when we got home. As Horizon says, this makes it very easy to see that you are level when you pull into a space and what you need to do if you are not.

The generators are loud and it is necessary to make sure the exhaust is going away from your RV while it is running. Your CO alarm will sound if any exhaust is going inside. We have a Genturi which is put on only when the generator is running that takes the exhaust up and puts it out over the roof and away from the van. For about $150 it is a good investment for safety. It does not really do much for the noise, despite the claim that it will make the generator quieter. If it does, it is an insignificant difference. But the main purpose is for the exhaust and safety. Of course, there is no need for this at a campground with hookups - you are not going to run your generator there.

Also - eventually, if not sooner, you are going to want a good RV-specific surge/voltage protector to safeguard your electrical system and all of the electronics inside your RV. The most recommended are made by Progressive and by Surge Guard. There are permanently installed models and there are portable models. You plug the portable one into the campground outlet and then plug your RV power cord into it. If there is a surge or a change in voltage - up or down - it will shut off the connection to your RV and protect your circuits. They are not cheap - around $250 but a lot cheaper than replacing your electrical components. We got one before the second trip we took. For our first night out we had just a polarity tester and a voltage meter to test the power at the campground post. We still do this before we hook up with the protector even though that makes these same checks when it starts up.

Sounds like you did all of the pre-campground things already - and yes, you are ready for the "big time"!

* This post was edited 03/17/12 09:11pm by 1775 *

Old George

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Posted: 03/19/12 07:53pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A quick review of my first experience. Designed for larger than a 1-person class B, though. Most much larger and not "for" overnighting. They do give a discount to Class B's! Complete RV store. Tall Pines RV Park, Sheveport.

Tonight at a State Park.

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