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Open Roads Forum  >  Dinghy Towing

 > Increasing Class A Tow Capacity?

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gone2dadesert

Encinitas, Ca

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Posted: 03/17/12 07:43pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Nomadac wrote:

The towing capacity of a MH is determined by the Manufacturer based on braking, GVWR, hitch, frame Mfg. etc. You can make changes to your hitch, and reinforce the frame but the recognized towing capacity will not change. If the Mfg. states 5K that is the max. recommended towing capacity.

Yes I know some try to upgrade the towing capacity on MH's and Pickup trucks but that does not change the legal rating for the tow vehicle.


* This post was edited 03/17/12 07:54pm by gone2dadesert *


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gone2dadesert

Encinitas, Ca

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Posted: 03/17/12 07:54pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

gone2dadesert wrote:

Nomadac wrote:

The towing capacity of a MH is determined by the Manufacturer based on braking, GVWR, hitch, frame Mfg. etc. You can make changes to your hitch, and reinforce the frame but the recognized towing capacity will not change. If the Mfg. states 5K that is the max. recommended towing capacity.

Yes I know some try to upgrade the towing capacity on MH's and Pickup trucks but that does not change the legal rating for the tow vehicle.



You're forgetting GCVW and I'm under that without the trailer


rk911

Wheaton IL

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Posted: 03/17/12 08:51pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Gale Hawkins wrote:

Is not the "legal" rating actually determined by the tags you buy?


not in illinois. all travel trailers, regardless of size or weight, get 'RT' (recreational trailer) plates while all motor homes and truck campers regardless of size or weight get 'RV' (recreational vehicle) plates. not sure if 5'ers get RT or RV plates.


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mowermech

Billings, MT

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Posted: 03/17/12 09:19pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Gale Hawkins wrote:

Nomadac wrote:

The towing capacity of a MH is determined by the Manufacturer based on braking, GVWR, hitch, frame Mfg. etc. You can make changes to your hitch, and reinforce the frame but the recognized towing capacity will not change. If the Mfg. states 5K that is the max. recommended towing capacity.

Yes I know some try to upgrade the towing capacity on MH's and Pickup trucks but that does not change the legal rating for the tow vehicle.


Is not the "legal" rating actually determined by the tags you buy?


GVW, in some states, yes. For instance, my truck (see sig) is registered for 14,000 GVW.
The registration says nothing about towing capacity or Gross Combined Weight.
GCWR for my truck is found ONLY in the Owners Manual/Operating Instructions. It is not listed on any legal document. Legally, AFAIK, there IS NO applicable number! At least, the registered GVW is the only legal limit I can find.


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Golden_HVAC

Fulltime, CA, USA

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Posted: 03/18/12 03:51am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Nomadac wrote:

The towing capacity of a MH is determined by the Manufacturer based on braking, GVWR, hitch, frame Mfg. etc. You can make changes to your hitch, and reinforce the frame but the recognized towing capacity will not change. If the Mfg. states 5K that is the max. recommended towing capacity.

Yes I know some try to upgrade the towing capacity on MH's and Pickup trucks but that does not change the legal rating for the tow vehicle.


In the original post, the owner stated a 28,700 GCVWR , while ready to camp weight is close to 21,000 pounds, so what part of being able to tow 7,500 pounds is in question?

If the owner is attaching a hitch to the Freightliner chassis, then the motorhome manufacture is not part of the equation anymore. Yet I can understand your concern that the Motorhome Manufacture might not have put on a frame extension rated at 7,500 pounds towing rating, that is why the owner needs to make sure the frame is up to the task.

My guess is also the owner will take the whole RV to a scale once he has the trailer and jeep on it, then check the weight. If the rear axle is overloaded at that point, smart choices include moving heavy things forward, or into the trailer, so that the rear axle is not overloaded.

The RV owner must realize that a 6,500 pound trailer will put at least 700 pounds on the hitch, and take away 100 - 300 pounds front the front axle. With a 1/2 pickup, taking away 300 pounds might matter, yet this size motorhome 500 pounds will not change the steering significantly.

Fred.

CVD

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Posted: 03/18/12 07:53am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Golden_HVAC wrote:

...The RV owner must realize that a 6,500 pound trailer will put at least 700 pounds on the hitch, and take away 100 - 300 pounds front the front axle...

Fred - Won't I have some control over this (i.e. by carefully picking the exact spot to place the Jeep on the trailer)?


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mowermech

Billings, MT

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Posted: 03/18/12 08:04am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

CVD wrote:

Golden_HVAC wrote:

...The RV owner must realize that a 6,500 pound trailer will put at least 700 pounds on the hitch, and take away 100 - 300 pounds front the front axle...

Fred - Won't I have some control over this (i.e. by carefully picking the exact spot to place the Jeep on the trailer)?


I'm not Fred, but YES, you CAN control the tongue weight by how the Jeep is placed on the trailer. However, you MUST have 10 to 15% of the total gross weight as tongue weight to prevent sway. 10% of 6500 lbs is 650lbs., there is no getting around it.
You can TRY towing at lower tongue weight, but I think you would be crazy to do it! It will very likely cost you a Jeep and trailer, if not more.

gone2dadesert

Encinitas, Ca

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Posted: 03/18/12 08:26am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

CVD wrote:

Golden_HVAC wrote:

...The RV owner must realize that a 6,500 pound trailer will put at least 700 pounds on the hitch, and take away 100 - 300 pounds front the front axle...

Fred - Won't I have some control over this (i.e. by carefully picking the exact spot to place the Jeep on the trailer)?



As for me, when I was using my open trailer (8.5x20ft) to tow my JKU on my previous coach, I personally didn't have any steering or handling problems. The again GVWR was 16k and GCVWR was 28k. With 20ft of lenght and my JKU being 16ft long (bumper to bumper), I could move it the front or back so it was more centered on the trailer. I found that for the best tire wear (on the trailer), it worked best with my JKU being forward.


Just out of curiosity, why don't you want to flat tow?

With the trailer\coach combo, I went from San Diego to, Zion NP, Moab, Mesa Verde, and back via the Grand Canyon with no problems. However, unless I found a 'pull through' site long enough, I had to disconnect the trailer and park it in a near by dirt lot. Not a big deal, but a hassle if you want to leave early the next morning and you can't 'load up' the night before

CVD

Corona, CA

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Posted: 03/18/12 10:56am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

gone2dadesert wrote:


Just out of curiosity, why don't you want to flat tow?

I've been flat towing it for several years. It's just an idea at this time to get a trailer. I've recently built it for 37's and to occasionally run Johnson Valley trails. So far, I've run 6 - 8 of the Hammers (3 trips) and had no running gear damage. But there could be times when it wouldn’t track straight after a trail run.

I’ve got a Dusy Ershim trip planned this summer, maybe Moab next fall. Those also could be places where it would be nice to trailer it home.

I'm also wondering which is a more "efficient" way to tow it. Flat towing is less weight of course (no trailer), and no hitch weight. But the trailer axles, bearings, and lighter tires should roll more efficiently than the TJ's tires and axle's. It has built JK Rubicon axles (trussed, sleeved, gusseted). As you know, when flat towing, these are always spinning the diff R&P and drive shafts. Again, just thinking through alternatives at this time.

gone2dadesert

Encinitas, Ca

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Posted: 03/18/12 12:20pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

CVD wrote:

gone2dadesert wrote:


Just out of curiosity, why don't you want to flat tow?

I've been flat towing it for several years. It's just an idea at this time to get a trailer. I've recently built it for 37's and to occasionally run Johnson Valley trails. So far, I've run 6 - 8 of the Hammers (3 trips) and had no running gear damage. But there could be times when it wouldn’t track straight after a trail run.

I’ve got a Dusy Ershim trip planned this summer, maybe Moab next fall. Those also could be places where it would be nice to trailer it home.

I'm also wondering which is a more "efficient" way to tow it. Flat towing is less weight of course (no trailer), and no hitch weight. But the trailer axles, bearings, and lighter tires should roll more efficiently than the TJ's tires and axle's. It has built JK Rubicon axles (trussed, sleeved, gusseted). As you know, when flat towing, these are always spinning the diff R&P and drive shafts. Again, just thinking through alternatives at this time.



True, when I went to Moab, I was thinking the same thing and trailered my JKU at that time. Then later last year, we did the Rubicon and I flat towed with my current coach. Luckily, I didn't need the trailer


I'm set up for 37's, I have 5:38's now... AND, I still have my trailer, but I use it to get my Polaris RZR XP around... My trailer is a little long but it works...

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