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Open Roads Forum  >  Beginning RVing

 > Hitch Questions

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airborne8

Michigan

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Posted: 03/19/12 08:13am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

As I stated in an earlier post I will take possession of a 2012 Starcraft 235FB, 26 ft lg, UVW 4360, DHW 530, GVW 6500, CCC 2140, on Saturday.

My TV is a 2004 Silverado 1500 4x4 crew cab 5.3 w/tow package, 3.73 gears.

After reading many, many posts on this forum it appears that if you don't have an "Equalizer, Hensley, or Reese Dual Cam" you aren't properly prepared for safe towing.

The dealer I am purchasing my TT said that he will gladly let me spend the extra cash, but, it isn't needed for this rig. I explained to him that I must feel safe and secure towing this TT. He assured me I would not be underhitched with a Reese Pro Series with friction sway control.

Is he mistaken? Am I to be scorned and ridiculed?

Thanks for any opinions.


Bill

SWD

Land of Living Skies

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Posted: 03/19/12 08:31am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you are getting any weight distribution hitch and sway control installed, especially a Reese, you'll be fine. There are many options out there, good, better, best.

IDman

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Posted: 03/19/12 08:32am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The Reese Pro Series will work just fine for you. I have used one for 5 years and it does a great job for me. I think your dealer is an honest person looking to make a long time customer and friend instead of over-selling you for the sake of his wallet!

Benny&Lori

Whitesboro NY

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Posted: 03/19/12 08:35am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I found the diffrences with the Sway controls and depending on what your comfortable with will determine what you need.

Independent Friction Controls

Independent friction controls have been around the longest. One side of the mechanism attaches to the trailer and the other to the weight distribution head. The steel bar with friction pad is used to slow down trailer sway. One slide bar friction control can be used for trailers up to 6,000 lbs Anything over 6,000 lbs, and less than 10,000 lbs, will require two controls. Aside from over 6,000 lbs, if the trailer is 26' or longer, you will want to use 2 sway controls. Independent friction controls can also be used without a weight distribution system. Over or under tightening the sliding mechanism can render the system ineffective.

Dependent Sway Controls

Dependent sway controls are built in to weight distribution systems. They rely on the downward force of the spring bar to apply frictional resistance to brackets on the trailer tongue to combat trailer sway. This style is more consistent than the independent friction style, is easier to hook up, and over or under tightening is not a problem. This system is the only one approved for trailers with surge (hydraulic) brakes.

Active Sway Controls

Active sway controls also require a weight distribution system. An example of active sway controls is the Dual Cam System from Draw-Tite, Hidden Hitch and Reese which proactively and aggressively resist the start of sway by forcing the vehicle and trailer to ride in straight line. In tight turns the dual cam lifts the outside spring bar which increases towing performance by leaning the tow vehicle and trailer into the turn. The dual cam system can only work with weight distribution systems that have cams built into the spring bars.


Hope this helps...


Benny and Lori
Sara, Matthew, Ashley and Christopher
Niko the camping dog!
2006 SALEM 312BHBS
2006 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab


chevyclassc

Iowa

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Posted: 03/19/12 08:35am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

how much more does he want for the dual cam? if it's less than $200, i'd probably buy it anyway

downtheroad

Pacific Northwest

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Posted: 03/19/12 08:43am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

One reason 'some' dealers try to get you into a friction bar and independent weight distribution hitch combo is because they are very easy to install..

Hitch systems like the Reese Dual Cam are much harder to install and to dial in so that they work correctly...

Dealers normally want you in and out the door quickly.
Having used a friction bar, Equal-i-zer and Reese Dual Cam...I'd opt for the Reese.


"If we couldn't laugh we would all go insane."
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bikendan

Napa, Cal.

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Posted: 03/19/12 10:05am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

depends on how much he's charging for the Reese Pro.

an Equal-i-zer costs about $440 with free shipping and is easy to install and requires no drilling into the frame.

i believe the Reese will require drilling into the frame.
not a big fan of friction bars over integrated sway control. plus you have to unhitch the fricton bar to back up.


Dan- Firefighter, Shawn- Musician/Entrepreneur, Zoe- Faithful Golden Retriever(RIP), 2007 Chevrolet Avalanche LS, 2007 Rockwood Roo 23SS w/Equalizer and Prodigy, and 5 Mtn. bikes and 2 Road bikes


gktsuda1956

Washington

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Posted: 03/19/12 10:25am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I've had both the Reese and the Equalizer friction style hitch. The thing I really like about these 2 styles was NO FRAME DRILLING.

My Equalizer was a EQ2, which means it has 2 points of friction. In this case it was a friction pad that was suspended by clamps from the
TT tongue frame. Equalizer has a EQ4 which adds friction at the hitch end of the bars. My EQ2 in my opinion was a poor design. The 2 metal straps that bolted over the frame to hold the friction pad were not thick enough metal to prevent them from bending when bolted to the frame.

I went with the Reese, with this trailer, because the metal straps to clamp the friction pads to the frame are MASSIVELY thick and DO NOT bend when bolted to the frame. ALSO the Reese uses a thick brake pad as the friction pad. Where the Equalizer used this thin abrasive surface that quickly wore away over time and use.

Most of my work is the Northwest, WA and OR. Many times I don't bother using the WDHSC, I'll just hitch and drag w/ the ball. BUT that's ONLY on days with NO WIND and/or I'm doing a short run. I was coming from Walla Walla, WA dragging on the ball only. Got up on the flat lands outside of Pendleton, OR heading towards Hermiston and the Gorge and the winds picked up and tumble weeds were blowing across the hiway. I could feel the TT swinging and pulling in the wind. Immediately pulled off the hiway and put on the Reese. No more sway or wind affect.


Glenn
Retired Navy Saturation Diver
2011 230RKS Wind River - Outdoors RV
2011 F-350 Crew Cab 6.7L Diesel Short Box
Longview, WA

airborne8

Michigan

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Posted: 03/19/12 11:43am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The salesman tells me that the Reese Pro Hitch is a wdh that has friction sway control.

The cost of the above hitch was included in the "show price" along with extras such as electric awning, tongue, etc. I am quite happy with the "out the door" price. He said the Reese Dual Cam would be an additional $400.00 but insisted I would not need it. They carry all types of makes and styles on site.

Purchasing a hitch system and installing it myself does not sound appealing to me as a newcomer. I would much prefer dealer installation.

I guess if I'm not happy with the Reese Pro System, I can always change to the dual cam later.

It would seem that if the salesman was after sales only, he would encourage me to buy the dual cam.

gktsuda1956

Washington

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Posted: 03/19/12 01:13pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sweet. I'm not familiar w/ the Pro Hitch. I believe this one will have an additional friction mechanism that mounts on the tongue frame that is adjustable.

Reese Website

I have the next one down Reese SC Weight Distributing Hitch. Easy install. They have detailed instructions on how to measure the wheel wells of the TV and relation to the TT when hooked up to properly adjust the hitch. Pretty simple. Just need a level ground spot and a measuring tape. I used the high school parking lot.

I think with this one, Reese Pro Series Trunnion Bar Weight Distributing Hitch, you end up drilling the tongue frame.

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