Sounds like a good deal and yes you do need a brake controler. Make sure that includes the tire straps and the vehicle hold down chain that holds the car to the dolley (not the safety chains).. Jim
The Camperkids Jim & Lois
3 Grandkids Maria, Christian, Antony (part timers)
1999 Newmar Mountain Aire 37.5ft, Ford V-10, F-53 Chassis, Bilsteins Shocks W/ Bilstein Steering Stablizer, HWH Levelers
We have also purchased a new Jayco Greyhawk 26DS and would like to tow our 3 door Toyota Yarris using a tow dolly. I have a couple questions for you and the forum. What brand of dolly did you end up with? Did you have any trouble with the clearance between the dolly and the bottom of the car? How well does the Yarris tow? Did you end up getting a tow dolly with electric brakes? Thanks in advance for your help.
cwit wrote: As long as we are on Q& A, what would be better a tow dolly or a trailer for towing? We are planning to switch from 5er to class A.
IMHO if all you want to do is tow a vehicle that is towable 4 down, that is my first choice. if you want to tow something that is not, has 44 inch tires for rock climbing, etc. or want to also carry a golf cart, mo peds, etc. go for the trailer.
but if you have a gasser, a toad plus trailer may be pushing your capacity.
bumpy
cwit wrote: As long as we are on Q& A, what would be better a tow dolly or a trailer for towing? We are planning to switch from 5er to class A.
Do a lookup of past topics in dinghy towing. Most claim that the way they tow is the only and best way. there are advantages and disadvantages to 4 down, dolly, trailer.
baitboy wrote: We have also purchased a new Jayco Greyhawk 26DS and would like to tow our 3 door Toyota Yarris using a tow dolly. I have a couple questions for you and the forum. What brand of dolly did you end up with? Did you have any trouble with the clearance between the dolly and the bottom of the car? How well does the Yarris tow? Did you end up getting a tow dolly with electric brakes? Thanks in advance for your help.
Master Tow Dolly. No problem with the clearance. I have not towed it as yet, just tried it to see how it loaded. I got electric brakes. I couldn't justify giving up 38 mpg just so I could tow it 4 down. I probably will sometime down the road.
luztheoutdoorz1-----Thanks for the info. I agree with you --I pulled a jeep Liberty and was not happy ---- I'll put up with the extra trouble loading and unloading and save the $$.
baitboy wrote: We have also purchased a new Jayco Greyhawk 26DS and would like to tow our 3 door Toyota Yarris using a tow dolly. I have a couple questions for you and the forum. What brand of dolly did you end up with? Did you have any trouble with the clearance between the dolly and the bottom of the car? How well does the Yarris tow? Did you end up getting a tow dolly with electric brakes? Thanks in advance for your help.
We went with ACME EZE tow dolly. It was about the only one I found that could handle the weight of our van (4400 lbs empty), but still was light enough that we don't go over the 5,000 lb limit of MH's hitch receiver. That, and with its lower ground clearance, stowable ramps and tongue wheel I built for it, I can store the dolly almost entirely under the MH, out of the way. Even the (much more expensive!) Demco Kar Kaddy SS and its folding tongue and ramps uses more campsite space than mine does.
We wanted nothing to do with electric brakes, was another reason for going with the EZE dolly, and its hydraulic surge disk brakes. We had electric brakes for years with our RV trailer we had before. We did not want to have them again - they add too many extra 'failure points' and installation/setup challenges (controller, wiring, etc).
We have had no trouble with clearance, partly due to EZE dolly's low ground clearance. That is something that varies from vehicle to vehicle, and dolly to dolly. Easy problem to solve, though, with a couple of 2x6 boards.
We seriously considered setting up the van to tow 4 down, but ultimately decided not to because of the obscene extra cost that would be - Over $3000 vs just $1400 for the dolly (not to mention having to spend some of that $3k again every time we trade vehicles). That, and I didn't want to have to make so many modifications to the van. It would have required a tranny lube pump, base plates, auxiliary braking, wiring for brake lights, etc. None of that is needed with the dolly. Several years from now when one of our vehicles is due to be traded/replaced, we may look into getting a vehicle that can be towed 4 down easier, and switch to 4 down then. Until then, though, the dolly will work fine.
Like already said, there's several pros and cons to either approach (dolly vs 4 down), and everyone is convinced there way is the best and only way. The best way is whatever works best for YOU, and your specific situation.
Will & Angela
2 children that love camping, Stephen & Allison
2012 FR Georgetown 351DS on F53 (V10) Chassis Our Rig
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