Mar-d-mar wrote: Escargot, That's the unit. What's your opinion on the total life? Could I expect 250000, 300,000?
I second what 1775 suggested. Take it to a mechanic and have it checked out.
I will tell you that I had 210,000 miles on original engine of my '87 Westy (VW Westfalia) and it was still going strong when I sold it.
Thanks everybody. I have scheduled the van to be inspected tomorrow. They are going to "Drive, Scan and Rack" it whatever that means. Hopefully there will be enough information for me to make a good decision.
When an old engine dies, does it just quit in the middle of the road, or will I get some notice if I take it in for regular checkups?
Mar-d-mar wrote: Thanks everybody. I have scheduled the van to be inspected tomorrow. They are going to "Drive, Scan and Rack" it whatever that means. Hopefully there will be enough information for me to make a good decision.
When an old engine dies, does it just quit in the middle of the road, or will I get some notice if I take it in for regular checkups?
No set rule on that. It could stop all at once (Rarely) or it could just gradually degrade by losing compression and being hard to start.
Ask the same question to the guys that are checking it out.
Gook Luck with your decision.
Mar-d-mar wrote: Thanks everybody. I have scheduled the van to be inspected tomorrow. They are going to "Drive, Scan and Rack" it whatever that means. Hopefully there will be enough information for me to make a good decision.
When an old engine dies, does it just quit in the middle of the road, or will I get some notice if I take it in for regular checkups?
'Drive, scan, and rack' means that they'll drive it to listen an d feel for unusual noises or behavior, scan the engine computer for malfunction codes, and put it on the lift (rack) for visual inspection. Compression and leak-down test would involve more labor $ and take longer, but should give you some indication of the engine's internal condition.
Usually a dying engine will indicate its poor condition by using oil, smoking, loss of power, hard starting, odd noises, etc. Occasionally a timing chain will break, shutting it down, or a connecting rod will poke thru the side of the block. It's more likely that you'll get tired of fixing little stuff that goes wrong, and their cost. Transmission failures seem to occur with less or no warning.
Jim, "Art is anything you can get away with."
'06 Tiger CX 'C Minus' on a Silverado 2500HD 4x4, 8.1 & Allison (aka 'Loafer's Glory') www.tigervehicles.com
Depends on the manner of failure, and there are a number of them. You'll definitely want an emergency roadside service plan (similar to AAA, but for RV's, which AAA isn't in some areas).
My 1st B (a Roadtrek 190 on a '99 Dodge) was bought with a failed transmission. It moved just enough to get it onto the trailer. I don't know how much warning it gave the PO. Total repair cost was about $3600 for a nation-wide warranted Jasper rebuild and a new radiator (old cooler was plugged with debris from tranny).
Mau Mau, They listed it for 12995, and said 10995 was their lowest. I will shoot for 8000, but somehow I think they'll turn me down. Should I wait them out? Call back in a couple months to see if it sold?
Mar-d-mar wrote: Mau Mau, They listed it for 12995, and said 10995 was their lowest. I will shoot for 8000, but somehow I think they'll turn me down. Should I wait them out? Call back in a couple months to see if it sold?
You should offer 8000 then walk away if not accepted. Make sure you leave them your phone number and tell them you will look at other ones which you should do anyway. Best wishes,
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1990 Dodge XPLORER RV Van- Purchased 10/15/10 Chick Magnet !
* Sportsman GEN154 2000 Watt 80cc Portable Generator * XM Satellite Radio since 12/25/2004
Sold my Class C 1976 Dodge TEC Motor Home 9/25/10
Another technique is to lay your check on the sales reps desk - made out to the seller, dated, amount filled on, but unsigned. And let it linger there a bit, but with your pen in your hand "wanting" to sign that check.
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