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Open Roads Forum  >  Towing

 > Weight Distribution w Sway Control - Trunnion: Pro Series

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Mark and Linda

Smyrna, Tennessee

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Posted: 03/22/12 07:56am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When I bought my TT it came with the WDH that the previous owners had used. It was set-up on my 2007 Cheverolet Silverado. I have the tow package on it. The service man told me I might need to go up one knotch on the hitch. This past week while on the way camping I had it up to around 55 MPH. I noticed the front end wanted to float some with me. I came home and adjusted up one more hole on the hitch. I have not had it back out on the highway since then. After reading over the set up procedure....I think I am going to go back and recheck everything I have done before going out on a trip. Any suggestions from the ones who know? Sort of new to the WDH system....

TT is a 2009 Puma 25RS, tv is a 2007 Cheverolet, 5.3, v-8.

APT

SE Michigan

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Posted: 03/22/12 08:22am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My guess is you needed to use one fewer links under tension, so 5 instead of 6 for example. Raising the front of the TT usually makes sway worse.

Read and start over. Also, Etrailer has a great Reese dual cam setup video.


A & A parents of DD 2005, DS1 2007, DS2 2009
2011 Suburban 2500 6.0L 3.73 pulling 2011 Heartland North Trail 28BRS
2012 VW Passat TDI

eric james

Sioux Falls, SD

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Posted: 03/23/12 02:10pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

To get the front of the truck to go back down to unloaded height, you need to tilt the hitch head (ball) down.

This is assuming your bars are running parallel or slight away with the trailer's frame.


2009 Keystone Passport UL 290BH
2003 Ford Expedition EB 5.4L/3.73



JBarca

Dublin, Ohio, USA

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Posted: 03/22/12 08:36pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi Mark,

So we know what hitch you have, does it look like this? This is the Reese SC series hitch with built in sway control.



You may have some WD setup problems. Do you know the truck fender heights front and rear un-hitched and then hitched up with the WD engaged? This will give us a little bit of info about your setup.

Here is how you can measure.


Any chance of being able to post a side picture of your hitch hooked up? The Reese SC hitch went through a revision early on and I do not know what hitch head you have. The original or the newer one that allows more head tilt towards the TT.

Need to know better what exact hitch you have and how your hitch setup looks on the TV and TT so we can give better answers to what you may be seeing. Right now all we can do is give big picture generic WD hitch answers that may or may not apply in your case.

Hope this helps

John


John & Cindy

2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10
CC, SB, Lariat & FX4 package
21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR
Ford Tow Command
1,700# Reese HP hitch & HP Dual Cam
2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver

2004 Sunline Solaris T310SR
(I wish we were camping!)


Mark and Linda

Smyrna, Tennessee

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Posted: 03/23/12 10:45am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

John,

Yes, this is the one that I have. Thank you so much for the photos on the hitch. After looking at them I realized what was wrong. I was too high up with the ball and I didn't have the correct angle. I redid my tire pressures on my truck, got the measurement from my tt tongue to the ground, backed up to the tongue, then I seen the ball was way too high. I took measurements at all four wheel wells before and after the connection and compared them. On the front I gained about 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Rt. front before: 34" after 34 1/4" ; left front before: 34" after 33 1/2. Now question, if I wanted to decrease these measurements, would the adjustment be on the angle or raising or lowering the brackets on the TT? Thanks again for the information, I appreciate it.

Mark and Linda

Smyrna, Tennessee

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Posted: 03/22/12 02:19pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Mark and Linda wrote:

When I bought my TT it came with the WDH that the previous owners had used. It was set-up on my 2007 Cheverolet Silverado. I have the tow package on it. The service man told me I might need to go up one knotch on the hitch. This past week while on the way camping I had it up to around 55 MPH. I noticed the front end wanted to float some with me. I came home and adjusted up one more hole on the hitch. I have not had it back out on the highway since then. After reading over the set up procedure....I think I am going to go back and recheck everything I have done before going out on a trip. Any suggestions from the ones who know? Sort of new to the WDH system....

TT is a 2009 Puma 25RS, tv is a 2007 Cheverolet, 5.3, v-8.


My system has bars, no links to adjust. I am going to try and work on this tomorrow. Rain moved in today......

JBarca

Dublin, Ohio, USA

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Posted: 03/23/12 06:38pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Mark and Linda wrote:



I took measurements at all four wheel wells before and after the connection and compared them. On the front I gained about 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Rt. front before: 34" after 34 1/4" ; left front before: 34" after 33 1/2. Now question, if I wanted to decrease these measurements, would the adjustment be on the angle or raising or lowering the brackets on the TT?


Hi Mark,

You did not list the rear fenders. We need to keep an eye on them too. The rear will be down some from unhitched. 1" even 1 1/2" in the rear can be common for your 1500 Chevy. The concern in the back is do not approach the same as unhitched and for sure do not go above unhitched in the back. Then you took off too much weight and the rear of the truck can break free on traction.

Now the front, if you want to push more weight to the front, you tilt the tow ball back towards the TT. This creates more angle on the WD bars initially and when they are laying on the brake pads they have more tension in them. The WD bars should be in the range of being parallel to the TT frame. Yes you can lift the brake pad bracket up 1 hole too but that is a more course adjustment then the hitch head tilt. You need to work the 2 areas of adjustment so the WD on the truck comes out right and the WD bars are fairly parallel to the frame. Reese provided a pivot on the friction pad mount to allow it to follow the WD bar.

On your year truck GM was recommending to be at unhitched height in the front. Like this.


Newer thinking is the front can be somewhat lighter and may be better to help ward off oversteer when towing. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Understeer_and_oversteer You do not want to go beyond unhitched height on front and go below unhitched. The thought is too much weight on the front makes the truck bite in so to speak in a turn and go into jack knife quicker. By being a little lighter the front of the truck will slide some. Too light is not good either as you float around. Ford and the Equal-I-zer hitch brand has now adopted that the front can be lighter.

When the WD on the truck is right, then look at the TT to be level. Level is best but you can only be accurate to within 1 hole on the hitch head. Being 1/8" or 1/4" high is not too bad but being 1/2 to 3/4" high means you can drop down one hole and be 1/4" or 1/2" low. And being that little bit low is better then being high. So you move the hitch head up or down a hole to level out the TT. Then you may need to tweak WD one more time as they can interact some times.

In case you do not have them here are the instructions on your hitch. Or at least the newer hitch head version.
http://www.reeseprod.com/content/downloads/installation/N66153.pdf When that SC hitch 1st came out it had a slightly different hitch head. I do not know which vintage you have, they look close to the same but there are differences in the hitch head.

I also noticed Reese states it is OK to go below unhitched height in those directions. That does not play well with GM's. GM's with torsion bar front suspension does not like that. Your year I do not know if you have coil over shock or torsion bar. 2007 was a redesign year and the "classic" version was around for a while.

I looked up your camper floor plan. Could not figure how to go back in years but I'm assuming yours is similar.

http://palominorv.com/productinfo.aspx?m........orplandetails&floorplanid=3919&RVType=TT

Nice camper. We have had 2 similar with the big window in the back. The rear living area campers load weight towards the front as that is where more of the cargo areas are. Make sure the TT is loaded when you do your final hitch adjustments. Another important thing is TV tire pressure. And it is an experiment if you are on the P load range tires. 5 psi can be the difference of a stable rig and not.

Once you get the hitch setup right tire pressure is the next adjustment. Start out setting up WD with the tires aired up to your 1st choice at towing pressure. Never go below the door sticker pressure but you can go up to max side wall cold pressure to help stiffen up the tire. A good place to start is the rear to max cold and the front 5 to 10 psi above door sticker but not above max or below door sticker. Then tweak the front from there. On P tires you do not have to much room to tweak but it can make a difference.

Good luck and hope this helps

John

crcr

US

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Posted: 03/24/12 09:12pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Subscribing, as I am planning on buying this hitch very soon. Thanks for posting all the great info, John.

Mark and Linda

Smyrna, Tennessee

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Posted: 03/23/12 06:21pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks so much for the info. I will have to make a minor adjustment on it the next time I hook up. I had everything hooked up this morning, did my big adjustment, pulled it forward in the drive, washed it..and then back to the parking spot. I am assuming it doesn't need much, maybe a few serations.

Mark and Linda

Smyrna, Tennessee

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Posted: 03/23/12 08:22pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

John, You have loaded me down with some good info. Yes, that is our floor plan. I set my tire pressures close to the max before I started my adjustments. My measurements on the rear: Rt. Rear before, 35" loaded 33 1/2"; Lft. rear before, 35 1/4" loaded 33 1/2". The measurements were close...or the way I was looking at them. Thanks for the information on my hitch, I downloaded it to my laptop, with my other trailer info. Our TT should be loaded to what it will be all the time. We had a PUP previously, still use about the same stuff in our TT. We haven't added that much additional weight. Thank you again for the information, I know that it has helped me understand setting up the WDH. I am thinking the set up might have been a little off when it was first set up at the dealers. The tire pressures were off then, I know. I will make my final adjustments with the tire pressures you mentioned. When I get them set, I will make me a chart so that I will remember what goes where.

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