All fluids in that rig need changing....better think about brake fluid too!!!!
If you really want to flush the engine...but enough oil of the PROPER GRADE....thats CHEAP...fill with a new filer...run it 150-200 miles total...and drain again installing some GREAT oil of the proper grade with a NEW premium filter and have fun
2000 Country Coach Allure; Cummins ISC 330 HP; 71/2 - 8 MPG regardless
2002 Jeep Liberty
Many years ago, in the military, there was a maintenance program know as IRAN (Inspect, Replace As Necessary). Or was it IROAN (Inspect, Replace ONLY As Necessary)?
Anyway, the point being, doing unnecessary work is expensive and wasteful.
If the engine oil is not dirty, and does not smell like fuel, why replace it? Oil is not like gasoline, it does not "rot" over time. If you feel you just have to do a change, run the engine and drive it far enough to get it fully up to operating temperature, then drain the oil, change the filter, and fill with fresh oil. In other words, do it RIGHT!
Transmission oil; again, it does not spoil with age. If it is clear, and does not look or smell burnt, and the transmission shifts properly, you can probably leave it alone.
Differential oil; same thing.
Brake fluid; If it is clear, with no apparent dirt or cloudiness, and the brakes work good with a firm feel to the pedal, it is probably OK. If it is not clear, flush the system.
Grease zerks: Lubricate ALL of them. Pump grease in S-L-O-W-L-Y until fresh grease appears. Use extreme caution on joints sealed with rubber boots. Do not pump so much in that the boots swell up! If there is a CV joint in the drive shaft, don't forget the needle fitting in the middle of the joint!
Engine coolant: If it is the proper color, and looks clear, have it tested to be sure the additives haven't disappeared. If it looks at all suspicious, have the cooling system flushed and install new coolant mixed to at least -20 degrees F. Remember, it is not only anti-FREEZE, it is anti BOIL also. The mixture has to be adequate for both. I do not recommend any "do-it-yourself" radiator cleaning chemicals. Perhaps some of them work, but many are useless, IMO. Have the system cleaned, back flushed, and pressure tested by a professional, and you can be relatively sure it is done to the highest quality standards. If the rig overheats, it has been my experience that you might as well not try to avoid it, pull the radiator and have it cleaned, pressure tested, and flow tested. I once fought my old motorhome for a couple of seasons, replaced everything but the radiator, but it still would overheat. I removed the radiator and found the fins completely plugged with bug guts and dirt behind the A/C condenser where it couldn't be seen. Had it cleaned and tested, and no more overheating! Sure wish I had done that FIRST!
Good luck with your "new" rig.
CM1, USN (RET)
2002 Fleetwood Southwind 32V, Ford V10
Toad: 2006 Jeep Rubicon LJ
Other toad: '06 PT Cruiser, Kar Kaddy dolly
Toy: 1977 Dodge W100 CC SWB, 3/4 ton axles & springs
"When seconds count, help is only minutes away!"
I would be more concerned with belts, hoses, and tires than with the oils. We owned an 87 bounder and my wife still thinks it was one of the best coaches ever. My biggest complaint was the steering; it was a constant battle to keep it in my lane. After about 4 hours of driving I would be exhausted. I don't know if they had all the after market steering assists then but I sure needed one and would have purchased it if I knew then what I know now.
Good luck and enjoy your new rig.
Brian, Loretta & Daisy (Golden Retriever)
2008 Holiday Rambler Endeavor PDQ40
2008 Ford Explorer toad
All major mfg's have scheduled maintenance which includes all fluid changes. Moisture even gets into brake fluid, and power steering fluid. The first thing I did when I bought my used MH was to have every fluid changed and replaces with synthetic fluid where possible. It is cheaper to change your fluids then change your engine, trans, and rear.