Quote: One really needs to do the research & understand the differences between the batterys.
If you look at the specifications, you'll find that all lead acid batteries typically used for RV's have about 12 usable) watt hours per pound (50% DoD goal)
Battery calendar life for wet cells is about 4 - 7 years according to the NAWS FAQ and perhaps 50% longer for AGM's - brand, make, or model make very little difference.
Battery cycle life (the 'true deep cycle' thing) is irrelevant. There are only 250 or so weekends in a typical 5 year battery life and nearly any battery, properly sized and used, can handle that.
The fact is that batteries just don't store very much energy and you can't carry enough in an RV to make much of a difference.
If you want best service life from your batteries, often the best thing you can do is to upgrade your converter to one that does multiple stage charging and has a storage maintenance mode that features a sulfation inhibiting technique. Then take care of them. Avoid getting them hot (above 80F). Don't discharge below 12.0v as measured after at least a half hour or no significant charging or discharging. Recharge promptly and don't let them sit without a full charge. Recharge with sufficient vigor to stir things up. Store so they keep a full charge (but not overcharge) and have sulfation inhibited.
The 6v vs 12v or the 'true deep cycle 6v golf cart' stuff is maybe fun for folks to argue about and get all hot under the collar but when it comes to RV use, the impact of those things is so small as to be negligible compared to other things.
Quote: One really needs to do the research & understand the differences between the batterys.
If you look at the specifications, you'll find that all lead acid batteries typically used for RV's have about 12 usable) watt hours per pound (50% DoD goal)
Battery calendar life for wet cells is about 4 - 7 years according to the NAWS FAQ and perhaps 50% longer for AGM's - brand, make, or model make very little difference.
Battery cycle life (the 'true deep cycle' thing) is irrelevant. There are only 250 or so weekends in a typical 5 year battery life and nearly any battery, properly sized and used, can handle that.
The fact is that batteries just don't store very much energy and you can't carry enough in an RV to make much of a difference.
If you want best service life from your batteries, often the best thing you can do is to upgrade your converter to one that does multiple stage charging and has a storage maintenance mode that features a sulfation inhibiting technique. Then take care of them. Avoid getting them hot (above 80F). Don't discharge below 12.0v as measured after at least a half hour or no significant charging or discharging. Recharge promptly and don't let them sit without a full charge. Recharge with sufficient vigor to stir things up. Store so they keep a full charge (but not overcharge) and have sulfation inhibited.
The 6v vs 12v or the 'true deep cycle 6v golf cart' stuff is maybe fun for folks to argue about and get all hot under the collar but when it comes to RV use, the impact of those things is so small as to be negligible compared to other things.
For most folks, your correct, A good charger and watching water level on flooded cells is the most important thing you can do for life. Tthe number of time batteries are used/year is small compared to the design critera for the better batteries. But there are execeptions. We camp near 100days/year, mostly dry camping. so it's not hard to put enough charge/discharge cycles on a set of batteries to see differences in life between high quality batteries and the lesser quality ones. I'm going on 8 years on one set of GC that are typically discharged to 30%SOC then recharged at 65-90A close to 50 times/year or more. So for us, I'll stick with something designed for abusive use such as golf carts/forklifts etc. If you typically use a electric hookup site, or seldom dry camp, most any battery can serve you well. Trojan says GC need 100 or so cycles to reach max AH capacity. I'd bet most folks with GC in a trailer never even get to 100 cycles before the batteries die due to age.
2011 Keystone Outback 295RE
2004 14' bikehauler with full living quarters
2004.5 Silverado 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison
so if you go with 6V's, do you only run 2, or 2 in series with an additional 2 in series, all paralleled together? id love to get the higher aH ratings, since im primarily a boondocker (i did switch to LED's recently, tho), but never figured out if the 6V guys are using 2 or 4. 4 would be an awful lot of weight added to my tongue. never actually saw a trojan 6v, are they the same size as a typical 12v?
thanks in advance!
mikey
09 Cum.2500,QC,4x4,AT,3.73s,anti-slip,MagHytec diff/tran cover,285/70/17HankookDynapros,MB72wheels,ride-rite air bags, H&S BlackMaxx w/trans tuning; S&B CAI; DPF, NOX, Cat, EGR all MIA. couldn't be happier!
--'03 Rage'n 24C Toy Hauler
--2 dogs and a wife
FSAD wrote: so if you go with 6V's, do you only run 2, or 2 in series with an additional 2 in series, all paralleled together? id love to get the higher aH ratings, since im primarily a boondocker (i did switch to LED's recently, tho), but never figured out if the 6V guys are using 2 or 4. 4 would be an awful lot of weight added to my tongue. never actually saw a trojan 6v, are they the same size as a typical 12v?
thanks in advance!
mikey
The Trojan website has all of their batteries and specs.
I have 4 6V AGM;s which are slightly shorter than 6V T145's.
Dave
2006 F350 Diesel 4X4 CC SRW, Michelin XDS-2 19.5's, Vision Wheels
2011 Outfitter 9.5 Extended Cabover
Some Of Our Fun:http://daveincoldstream.blogspot.ca/
It is easier if you think of 2 6 volt batteries as a single battery. You will always have to have 2 6 volt batteries in series to make a 12 volt battery. You can then hook up as many of these 12 volt "batteries" in parallel as you want.
AO_hitech wrote: It is easier if you think of 2 6 volt batteries as a single battery. You will always have to have 2 6 volt batteries in series to make a 12 volt battery. You can then hook up as many of these 12 volt "batteries" in parallel as you want.
Well said! I will use that analogy when explaining in the future.
AZ T&T
2012 Jayco Eagle Super Lite 29.5RKS
2011 Chevy 2500 HD 4x4 Duramax
B&W Companion Hitch - Firestone Ride-Rite Air Bags
Honda EU2000i Generator
AO_hitech wrote: It is easier if you think of 2 6 volt batteries as a single battery. You will always have to have 2 6 volt batteries in series to make a 12 volt battery. You can then hook up as many of these 12 volt "batteries" in parallel as you want.
i understand that, i was just wondering what the 6v crowd typically does, 2 or 4. Crosscheck said he uses 4. anyone else?
FSAD wrote: so if you go with 6V's, do you only run 2, or 2 in series with an additional 2 in series, all paralleled together? id love to get the higher aH ratings, since im primarily a boondocker (i did switch to LED's recently, tho), but never figured out if the 6V guys are using 2 or 4. 4 would be an awful lot of weight added to my tongue. never actually saw a trojan 6v, are they the same size as a typical 12v?
thanks in advance!
mikey
Just like 12 volt batteries: You treat each pair (Wired in series) like it was a 12 volt battery (Which it is) and just like 12 volt you can use 1 (pair) 2 (pair) 3 (Pair) More (pair) the only thing is you always use what I am going to call "mated pairs" and if you replace ONE you replace it's mate (The other half of the pair).
Why would you replace the good mate if a six volt goes bad?
Well.. would you want a 12 volt battery where 3 cells were new and the other 3 were say 2 years old?
But you treat each pair EXACTLY like it was a 12 volt
And just like you can parallel 2 or 3 12 volts (I had up to six 12 volt of assorted size at one time... or was it 7, I forget) you can parallel pairs of six volt.
Nothin adds excitment like something that is none of your business
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