Mods, If you wouldnt mind, leave these pics large so the Girard fellow can see the details. Thanks.
jrnert wrote: Reading RV USA's comments I have to reply with some information/facts:
1. The Winter Use Device (WUD) consists more than just the solenoid. With your unit you should have received 2 Manuals; GSWH-1 Manual and the GSWH-1 Winter Use Device (WUD) Manual. The wiring of the WUd is in that manual.
2. I'm not sure what you mean by the "heat dump" but I think you mean the P/T valve. It will not leak/weep like a tank water heater and if it does activate it will not harm the eletrical....it is CSA approved. BTW - if it does weep/leak it is defective and should be replaced.
3. On tightening the water lines....we mention in the manual and on a label located next to the fittings not to "over-tighten". The plate attached to the fittings has slots in it to keep the fitting in place.
4. The design is durable. It was tested in actual use and on the Bendix test track in Indiana. The test consisted of a 1,000 mile run over their track with bumps, etc. They equate the test to a 75,000 mile actula use. It passed with no damage. Also, we have yet to have any damage (after installation) from use in the field. We have been out for 3 years and thousands of units in use.
5. On the wires, your are right, it may be confusing. We changed to a green wire for ther Mode switch (it was a black wire with a white tag). Unfortunately the correct manuals got mixed up so some units were shipped indicating the wrong color wire....for that we apologize.
6. On the High/Low Mode switch. We use to have a sensor which automatically selected High or Low. Over whelming feedback from consumers was they preferred the High/Low option rather than depending on it doing it automatically. Keep in mind you are making "instant" hot water so a consistant Water FLow/Pressure will give you a steady water temperature....not an automatic sensor since that is dicated by the incoming water temperature....you have 27,000 BTUS on Low and 34,000 BTUs on High.
Girard Products LLC
www.greenrvproducts.com
I must have missed your response. Now I wish I had taken a pic of the tube as it was flattened against the larger one so you could see it. Although I am certain you have already just not on my unit.
1: Nope, I only got the solenoid (just tossed into the unit). No manual for it. If you have it online, a link would do fine. Although it really only affects the fresh water tank and not city water. So I dont know what use it would be in a campground that has full hookups.
2: Sure, the P/T valve. As you can see in the pic, it is pointed directly at the electrical controls. The controls dont appear to have waterproof connections. If the valve releases water do to pressure it will dump straight onto the controls.
3: "over-tighten" - is that a torque spec of some sort? As I mentioned in a later post, I didnt damage the pipe while tightening it, I did it while loosening it to see why the line had a drip.
3b: slots? what slots? You can see the fitting simply sits in a round hole on the housing. There isnt anything to prevent it from spinning around other than the pipe that got flattened.
Do you mean the small plate on the back of the housing? The one just sitting on the fitting's threads doing nothing to prevent the pipe from spinning? Why? Because the pipe itself is too long?
See all those threads on the fitting that are outside of the housing? They would have been perfect for putting a nut onto to hold the fitting and pipe in the housing so the slotted plate could actually function.
4: sounds great. Based on what I have seen from just trying to remove the water line, I dont buy it. But whatever.
5: Probably why I didnt get a wud manual too. Mixups.
6: looks like you left the sensor in there. Or is the thermal switch used for the winter solenoid?
7: (my own) Any guess as to why the squirrel cage motor sounds like it's out of balance? It vibrates excessively. My guess is the loose wud solenoid smacked something in transit.
wa8yxm wrote: Lady Fritz.. There you go recommending someone Actually the manual.. I mean you know Real Men Don't Read Manuals right ...
I'm sorry. I don't know what came over me.
Feeling smug are we? By all means point out where the manual states what the maximum allowable torque is. And while your at it, point out where it warns you that it could also be damaged when trying to remove a water line.
wa8yxm wrote: Lady Fritz.. There you go recommending someone Actually the manual.. I mean you know Real Men Don't Read Manuals right ...
I'm sorry. I don't know what came over me.
Feeling smug are we? By all means point out where the manual states what the maximum allowable torque is. And while your at it, point out where it warns you that it could also be damaged when trying to remove a water line.
RVUSA
1. Go to www.greenrvproducts.com, then to Owner Manuals, then you will see WUD Manual which you can read or print. Look at the "Aug" manual.
2. In the Water HEater Manual, page 6 it specifies using Pex Fittings and only hand tighten. Pex fittings have a rubber gasket so that is all the tightening that is needed.
3. On the damaged Hot Water line, call our office 949-636-4334, ask for Water Heater Tech Support. Give them your name and shipping address and tell them to forward it to "Jerry". I will send you a new Hot Water Outlet assembly.
4. On the noisy blower assembly, you will need to take your unit to a service center and have it checked out. If it is defective, we will will replace the blower assembly.
5.The sensor that is not hooked-up is the Auto/Low Sensor. You can reconnect if you wish. Ask our tech support how to do it when you call your address into our office.
6. We recommend that our prodcut is installed by an qualified installer. If the installer damages anything or finds other issues it gets handled by them. If they break something they pay for it not the cusotmer.
7. You're probably still not happy but that is about all I can do for you.
Unless you have a different design where the fitting is secured to the housing with a bulkhead connection, I'll take care of it myself. I will call and see what is needed to reconnect the hi/lo temperature switch though. I appreciate the offer.
It appears that the reason I had a problem in the first place is the fitting on my unit arent the same as the fitting depicted on the unit in the WUD manual. On that unit you can see where the plate on the back of the housing slips over the fitting and rests on flat grooves of the fitting. That would go a long way in stopping the pipe from spinning. Mine only has a threaded connector soldered to the pipe. No grooves at all. So the plate does nothing.
As a point of clarification, the manual does not specify swivel nuts, it only states they can be used. Maybe you need to reword that so that it specifically states to use them only, or include a maximum allowable torque specification for the fitting so when something other than a flex nut is used, the person will have more than an arbitrary reference to go by.
As I have said before, the damage occurred as I tried to take the line back off. Probably wouldnt have happened had the fitting been the same as the one in the WUD manual.
Edit: I went back and reread the manual. This is what it states.
"Connections can be made using PEX swivel nut adaptors with NPS straight threads and a cone seal or with a standard ½”FPT nut. The PEX swivel nuts require only hand tightening. When using a standard ½”FPT nut use Teflon tape and/or PTFE pipe paste and do not over-tighten"
I would suggest adding a maximum allowable torque spec. for the standard 1/2" nut if you intend on leaving the "or" in.
* This post was
edited 04/06/12 04:00pm by RVUSA *
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