zildjian
northampton
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Joined: 05/28/2011
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Hello people,
I'm a long term lurker here, and TBH I pick up hints and tips rather than post myself but his has me stumped.
This week a solar panel kit is arriving here for installation on my camper, my problem is the cabling then need to travel from the panel, through the one piece roof panel and on to the battery via a controller.
Where I'm reluctant to say the least of drilling a hole in the roof, I cant see any other route for the power cable,
so how do Make a watertight seal in a roof of about 40mm thickness:
plastic coated plywood roof
---------------------------
polystyrene type filler
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plywood ceiling.
any suggestions gang
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Mello Mike
Mesa, AZ
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I'd use the refrigerator vent to pass your solar wiring. No need to drill an additional hole. AM Solar makes a great refrigerator vent combiner box. I used it in an installation I did a few years ago and it worked great.
AM Solar Roof Vent Combiner Box
2011 Wolf Creek 850N/Polar Cub/240w Solar/2-6v Lifeline AGMs/Morningstar Sunsaver w/RM-1 & SureSine-300 Inverter
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zildjian
northampton
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well as a matter of fact that seems my 'only' alternative so I popped off the external cover this afternoon and behind the plastic grille is an oval exhaust outlet,
this route would only expose the cable over the roof edge/side for about 4" i agree, typically how are fridges secured in their housings ?
since I'll need to get behind it of course
thanks
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donn0128
Pronounced Ore-gun
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Joined: 04/21/2005
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Take off the outside access cover and you should have all you need. My solat panel wires run down next to a tank vent. Hold the wires down with dabs if Dicor lap seal.
Donn,Lorri,Max (The Rescued Lab)
Resident Know It All 
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zildjian
northampton
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OK but I imagine I'll still need to get behind the fridge to grab the wires coming down from the grille,
also should I extend the manufacturers !M of cable (in order to reach battery)
either before the controller, or after..
thanks
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AnEv942
CA
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Joined: 10/10/2003
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Sounds like your top refer vent is side mounted, not on the roof?
But most, roof mounted vent you drop the cord down-and can access a wall that leads inside from behind the refer, usually thru lower vent cover. (The oval exhaust vent doesnt sound familur). Not sure about running the wires off the roof & over the side to access side mounted vent.
Our camper doesnt have a roof vent for refer, both lower & upper vents are on the wall. So I went down rear plumbing vent, the pipe goes down in hollow (bath) wall where I mounted controller. I removed light switch & I could see the pipe, cut a hole in wall just above where controller was going-drill a hole in vent pipe, feeding from above I was able to pull wire.
Mark
01 Ford 250 4x4 DRW Diesel, 01 Elkhorn 9U
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zildjian
northampton
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Ah, good you mentioned that,
yes your right my fridge vent is on the sidewall (near the top but on the side)
I initially looked at lots of glands that could go in the roof, but none of them seem to be long enough that I can tighten up from the ceiling inside so I must have the wrong idea of their use I think
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AnEv942
CA
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Generally the glands would be used to seal cables to a combiner box etc, getting the cable inside most run inside thru exisiting protected source (refer/plumbing vent). Ive not seen anyone use a gland and sealing directly thru roof.
Off hand Im thinking if I couldnt otherwise get inside thru existing vent or something is mounting a weather proof box to roof. drill hole in roof over inside cabint or where ever you can get access. Box, with a hole inside over hole in roof would be mounted and sealed to roof. Panle cable enters box (that is sealed with gland to box) then enter thru hole in bottom of box thru roof to inisde cabinet etc. Be simular to box I added for our tv connection.
Mark
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zildjian
northampton
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Yes your idea looks about the best bet, I only thought of a gland as it seemed by best idea first off.
Having read on here and other truck forums of the dreaded condensation caused by little leaks and such I was just considering all options before reaching for the drill.
I suppose a junction box sealed with some form of flexible mastic with an access hole drilled beneath, and the whole thing shielded by the panel anyway will just have to do.
Now about this extension,
if the open circuit voltage right off the panels is a bit unpredictable, shall Install it like this
Panel>controller>extension>battery
or
Panel>extension>controller>battery
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Reddog1
El Dorado, CA
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I used an exterior electrical box (round). From inside my TC, in a cabinet, I simply drilled a hole through the ceiling. used a knock out in the bottom of the box, which I positioned over the hole. I used bytal tape under the box, and screws, and mounted the box. The box allowed me to use raintite (sp) cable connectors on the wires. I used the cover that came with the box. All of my parts were common at any box store that has residential electrical parts.
For me to have used the refrigerator vent, would have a much longer run of wire, over twice as much and a lot more work routing the wire. My controller and battery is on the opposite side of the TC from the refrigerator. Has been working well for over six years, with no need to re-caulk. I can add wires if I ever needed to.
Wayne
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