zildjian
northampton
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Over on a European forum they have a link to some slick looking purpose designed boxes,
but essentially the same thing of course.
As you say, an off-the-shelf will do the same job and that's what I'll do
I'm starting with a modest 20W panel to keep the 110AH battery topped over winter but adding another One or Two panels If a success.
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2oldman
Wilson Creek WA
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Joined: 04/15/2001
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There are lots of holes in my roof sealed with Dicor. Been there for years. They don't leak.
IMHO it's not waterproofing that's the issue, it's hitting wires or ducts.
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zildjian
northampton
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Whats 'Dicor' does it remain flexible with age?
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2oldman
Wilson Creek WA
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dicor
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sabconsulting
High Wycombe, UK
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This:
Clicky...
and the pages after it show what I did on my roof where I needed to pass cables through.
Steve.
'07 Ford Ranger XLT Supercab diesel + '91 Shadow Cruiser - Sky Cruiser 1
'92 Suzuki Samurai 4x4 1.6
'09 Fiat Panda 1.2
'10 Citroen DS3 1.6 turbo
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AnEv942
CA
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Joined: 10/10/2003
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My 1st response on your wiring would have been extension after controller (direct from panle to controller). However if you going to possiblly add to or replace with larger panle Id use some type of combiner (junction) box on the roof. Run supplied cable from panle to combiner box. Run cable from combiner box that will be large enough to handle future additions (so you dont have to reun wire) inside to controller location.
Any panles added would be run to & connected inside combiner box.
Note that panles added & run to same controller need to be simular in voltage.
01 Ford 250 4x4 DRW Diesel, 01 Elkhorn 9U
Our camper projects page
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Reddog1
El Dorado, CA
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I have two 65-watt panels. I do not recall the wire size I used. By using the shortest route from my panels to the controller, and the box directly over my controller, I ran the wires from each panel through the roof, to the controller and combined them at the controller. My Redneck logic/engineering says I will have less loss (wire size) that way.
I also choose two 65-watt panels over one 130-watt panel. Several reasons for that decision. One panel fail, I only loose 50%. If I get shade (Seagull poop) on one panel, it will not impact the second panel. If I develop a bad wire connection, greater chance of impacting only one (50%) panel. Two panels gave me more mounting options. If I choose to tilt, two small panels are easier to tilt individually, than one large panel. Less strain on mounting brackets/screws.
The down side was about $50 additional initial cost for two panels due to shipping and wiring. Also required eight mounting brackets instead of four.
Wayne
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bka0721
Republic of Colorado
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Joined: 03/19/2008
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It might help us help you, if you shared what Truck Camper you have.
There is a good RV.net reference thread, found on this Clicky for solar installation. Even though you are asking this first question, I bet you are going to have more.
Good luck. Love my Solar.
b
08 F550-4X4-CrewChas-6.4LDiesel-206"WB GVWR17,950lbs
09 Lance 1191
600w Solar~8-6vGC2 928AmpH~Tri-Star45/4 MPPT
Xantrex 2000W
300w Solar~2-6vAGM 240AmpH~Tri-Star45/4 MPPT
Xantrex 1500W
08 BMW R1200GS Adventure
09 7X14 Enclosed Haulmark Trailer
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zildjian
northampton
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OK,
Mine is an NSR
(European)
With a nissan navara cre cab pick-up,
This is my first camper/solar experiment
But we only use it for long weekends really with occasional weeks away on camping sites,
Most of those come with electrical hook-up but I'd like the battery to remain topped up when not in use,
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zildjian
northampton
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sabconsulting, thats a handy guide I've book marked it for future reff
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