BCBill
FV BC
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Started having this problem about a year and half ago, 2008 model suburban furnace.
It attempts to light three times then shuts down. I checked the inlet and outlet and they're both clear.
What I've done to make it work is to remove the propane line and blow compressed air in towards the burner during startup. After replacing the propane line, the furnace works as normal for several uses, then the same problem occurs again. I fixed it this way 4 or 5 times now, but would really like this issue resolved.
Anyone have any insight as to the problem I'm facing?
Chev 1500HD
Extreme Sportsmaster 23PT
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msiminoff
Silicon Valley, CA
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Joined: 12/31/2006
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I had a similar problem with my furnace on a (winter) camping trip a few years ago...
I fixed the issue by removing the igniter from the furnace and cleaning the heavily oxidized surfaces with the DW's emery board. It hasn't acted up since that time, but I now keep a strip of crocus cloth in the toolbox in case it does it again.
Cheers
-Mark
'04 Alpenlite Saratoga 935, 326W of solar, 300Ah Odyssey batt's, Trimetric, Prosine 2.0
05 Ram3500, Cummins, Goerend Trans, Vision 19.5 w/XDE's, Dynatrac Hubs, RR airbags w/ping tanks, Superhitch, Roadmaster Swaybar, Thuren trackbar, RS9000XL/MyRide
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Old-Biscuit
Across the USA
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Sounds like you need to clean burner orifice, burner tube and cleaning up the probe/igniter wouldn't hurt.
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D.E.Bishop
Eagle Rock, CA
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Old-Buscuit's idea is so good I'll shut up.
"I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to go". R. L. Stevenson
David Bishop
1990 Bounder 27D
1995 Suzuki Sidekick 4X4
Stowmaster 5000
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falconman
On The Road!!
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I think the sail switch may be sticking. Blowing air back towards the burner may have freed it up. I used some compressed air and blew air back in from the exhaust port when mine wouldn't light. Been working fine ever since. I bought a new switch but haven't needed to install it yet.
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Chris
Shelter Bay, Wa
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I reseated the wires on the circuit board to fix mine! Chris
My Rig
2001.5 2500 STD CAB AUTO SLT 4x4, CTD 4:10's, Bomb'd to Tow
2005 Cardinal 29WBLX.
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BCBill
FV BC
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I guess I'll pull the furnace out and see if anything needs cleaning..
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Ex-Tech
West
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Blowing air into the burner/combustion area or the inlet or outlet has no affect on the sail switch since the air-flow to activate the sail switch comes from the blower wheel that creates the supply air, isolated from the sealed combustion chamber where the burner is located.
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BCBill
FV BC
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Ex-Tech wrote:Blowing air into the burner/combustion area or the inlet or outlet has no affect on the sail switch since the air-flow to activate the sail switch comes from the blower wheel that creates the supply air, isolated from the sealed combustion chamber where the burner is located.
So why would blowing air towards the burner cause my furnace to work properly for a while? Would I just be blowing some debris out of the line?
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Ex-Tech
West
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BCBill wrote:Ex-Tech wrote:Blowing air into the burner/combustion area or the inlet or outlet has no affect on the sail switch since the air-flow to activate the sail switch comes from the blower wheel that creates the supply air, isolated from the sealed combustion chamber where the burner is located.
So why would blowing air towards the burner cause my furnace to work properly for a while? Would I just be blowing some debris out of the line?
Good question because in order for compressed air to reach the burner from the gas inlet, the 12-volt gas valve would need to be activated. Are you blowing air into the inlet while the furnace is activated and trying to light?
If so, there may be debrise or mud daubers on the burner inside the combustion chamber.
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