Tazymae
Kentucky
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I went to the TT forum and read too much about batteries I feel this forum is my home.... Mind you we haven't left for our trip yet in our first TT Batteries...Haven't looked at ours yet
Read under Fried Batteries....Water levels? golf cart battery instead of marine? battery disconnect piece for about $8.00 Trickle down battery charger how do we know what we have and is it good or bad to have a trickle down. Helo, my husband is not in the best of health and this will send him over the edge. He aboout stroked out about the diamond plate on our door coming off
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Ron3rd
Upland, CA USA
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Not sure I understand your question. Are you having a problem with your batteries or charging your batteries?
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Tazymae
Kentucky
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We just want to make sure our battery is good to go and if we have done any damage keeping it charging with the house electric on all the time. But with all the stuff I read I wanted clairification on all the "stuff " I read. Water levels, how to check, best battery, golf cart or marine, etc.
Thank you
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Tazymae
Kentucky
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Oh, also how do we know if our battery os a trickle down or what..
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Ron3rd
Upland, CA USA
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If you can post the model of your charger/converter we can give more info. The only way to know if your batteries are good is to have them tested. I keep my trailer plugged into AC power all the time and have had no problems. You just want to make sure your charger is not over-charging your batteries and boiling them dry. Check the water level often. See if there's any information (name/brand etc) on the batteries and we can tell you more.
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RRinNFla
Northeast Florida
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Don't let batteries increase your stress levels. For the most part, they work just fine and you don't have to think about them too much.
If you are hooked up to "shore power" your batteries don't provide much. If everything is working properly your batteries will recharge while connected to the electrical outlet at the campsite. Even completely drained batteries will regain some of their charge while connected to the tow vehicle.
A lot of what you have read about batteries is in regard to two major concerns about them:
1) Preserving the life of the battery, especially when in storage and
2) How to get the most out of them when NOT connected to shore power for extended periods (boondocking)
If you are interested in #2, that is something that will require a little more research on your part. As to #1, most of us face that issue. It seems that the consensus is that the best method for preserving batteries while in storage is to use a trickle charger which periodically "tops off" the battery. Of course, you have to have an electrical outlet nearby for the trickle charger. The second best option (the one which I use) is to disconnect the battery when the trailer is being stored. This can be done simply by disconnecting the battery cable. A battery disconnect switch just makes that a little more convenient.
Solar panels are another option for recharging your batteries, but I expect that is more than you want to know right now.
Richard
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skipnchar
Topeka or somewhere else
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A trickle charger (not trickle down) will put a small amount of charge on your battery full time. It is PROBABLY not necessary on a new trailer as MOST of them have a three stage converter/charger from the factory. this will act as a trickle charger for a fully charged battery and will boost to a higher charge rate when the battery state calls for it.
When off grid and using battery power reduce the number of lights at any one time. Television use can use a fair amount of power so watch what you are interested in with an eye on the power it's using. One MAJOR drain on your batteries is running the fridge with the Climate switch turned on. On models that HAVE this switch, it is usually located overhead of the freezer door inside the door. It's purpose is to heat the seals around the door to prevent condensation inside the fridge and ANYTHING that produces heat will use a lot of 12 volt power.
Marine/RV batteries are modified starting batteries (you need a starting battery to start a boat engine). They work perfectly well for an RV that does not boondock often or for extended periods of time. Their disadvantage over actual deep cycle batteries is in the number of charge/discharge cycles they will withstand before needing to be replaced. NO battery should be discharged much more than 50% or shortened battery life will be the result but a starting battery it is even more important. I've seen them fail after being deeply discharged only a few times. 6 volt Golf Cart batteries like the Trojan T 105 are close to the ultimate battery for boondocking as they have SOLID lead plates as opposed to wafer style plates in starting batteries. Being solid they do not warp as easily and this warpage from deep discharges is a killer of batteries.
With ANY battery, when the trailer is plugged in continually it needs to have the water level checked frequently (until you establish how quickly YOUR converter/charger is boiling the water out). Once you have established how well it is working you can adjust the times you check based on your findings. I'd recomend you start with about once a month and if you don't find low water levels increase the time. Use ONLY distilled water in your battery when adding water. Mineral deposits from using drinking water will cause early failure of the batteries.
The paper work you received with your trailer SHOULD give you complete information about the converter/charger supplied with your trailer. It will give model number and probably three different charge rates which it will cycle through automatically.
If you don't leave the trailer plugged in and use it infrequently, a disconnect switch can be helpful but not necessary. With it, when properly wired all 12 volt power to the trailer will be cut off and your battery should remain close to fully charged for several months of non-use. Without either a isolator switch (cut off switch) or simply removing the negative lead from your battery, the natural draws of CO sensor, LPG sensor, instant on stereo and/or television functions etc. will draw down your batteries at a faster rate. SOME RVs will discharge a battery to around 50% in as little as two weeks though others will go for a couple of months but all will eventually drain the battery. Install an isolator switch or remove the neg. lead from the battery, both methods work equally well and one is free.
Tell your DH to relax and not worry so much. RVing is supposed to be fun, not work  Things that may seem daunting now will become second nature very soon. There are actually very FEW things you can do that are WRONG enough to do immediate damage to anything. One that comes to mind involves use of the water heater. Just make CERTAIN that you NEVER turn it on without it being full of water. Gas or electric can do a lot of damage very quickly. I never worry about it because I never drain mine once it's in service for the season (just like the one in my utility room at home).
Good luck / Skip
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Tazymae
Kentucky
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Thank you Skip, I think we are beating a dead horse. Making too much out of nothing. It is what it is.
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Tazymae
Kentucky
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Thank you all...I will give you all a break now. I love this site. It is my Facebook....
First thing I do when I get up is read this....
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downtheroad
Pacific Northwest
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Relax...RVing is not as complicated as this forum seems to make it...
Hook up your new trailer and go camping. It's a lot more fun when you relax and stop worrying about every little thing like what color toilet paper is best for camping...
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